Swapping engines - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Gilles · 03-18-2025, 10:18 AM

somehow I cannot find the link someone shared here about the 'thin wall sockets'..

LoneWolfGal · 03-18-2025, 03:42 PM

I'm back from the world of inspections, preliminary reports, seller disclosures, vesting deeds, septic and well-water test results, etc., etc., and the inevitable so forth. Now I need to get cracking on that engine, get it all ready to stick in the car. The OEM cam chain wear pads (a.k.a. timing chain guide rail sets for VarioCam solenoid-actuated chain adjusters) and assorted seals and gaskets I ordered from Pelican on 3/7 hadn't arrived yet, so I called them to see what the holdup was. Turned out they had the wrong billing address associated with my debit card, which seems strange, given that I've ordered lots of stuff from them with the same card. I gave them the correct billing address, the card went though, and they said they would ship the order out today. No harm, no foul, since I won't be ready for those parts until next week. It's too late today to run that socket over to the machine shop and have them drill it out to 3/8". I've broken or worn out three drill bits so far, but I have more bits left, so I might give it another try tonight. Once the screwdriver can fit through it I can finally torque the IMS stud nut. I also picked up a couple of sheetrock screws, which Jake Raby claims is just the ticket (together with pliers) for removing the old rear main seal. The new seal and installation tool for setting the seal's depth are ready to go.

LoneWolfGal · 03-21-2025, 04:39 PM

It dawned on me that drilling the socket was the wrong approach. Once again, an 80-grit tungsten-carbide grinding drum, one with a small diameter, was a better solution. Took about 15 minutes.

LoneWolfGal · 03-21-2025, 05:58 PM

Also, the order from Pelican arrived today, containing: (2) "Timing Chain Rail Sets for Solenoid Actuated Chain Adjusters" (cam chain wear pads), (2) "O-Rings for VarioCam Chain Adjusters," (3) "Sealing Rings" (for chain tensioners), and (1) "Camshaft End Plug." You're looking at $135.67. The plug alone was $18.03. It was made in Slovenia. Which, as we all know, is where are the finest plugs are made.

LoneWolfGal · 03-24-2025, 01:37 PM

I opened a support ticket at LN, asking for assistance:

As per steps 41 and 42 of the Solution installation manual I installed the nut on the stud finger-tight, and then I torqued the flange bolts to 10Nm. Using a modified 3/8-drive 7/16" deep socket and a medium-large screwdriver I snugged up the nut on the stud. But now I'm scratching my head, because when I try to torque the nut, the stud turns with the nut. I had assumed snugging the nut would immobilize the stud so the nut could be torqued, but that wasn't the case. I tried tightening the nut more, with the same result. I have followed each step of the installation manual to the letter. How can I get that nut torqued?

LoneWolfGal · 03-24-2025, 05:29 PM

Here's why I'm sure the nut and stud are spinning in unison. Note the registration marks. They don't move in relation to each other. Wish Jake Raby were here. No doubt he'd say something like, "I've seen this before, and here's what you need to do..."

LoneWolfGal · 03-25-2025, 09:27 AM

LN Support's reply:

"The only advice I have is that some customers have used a small zip gun to quickly try and get the nut set and then use the wrench to torque it down."

I haven't replied to that. I wouldn't know what to say. This is a nutty situation, the latest in a string of nutty situations during this IMS bearing installation. It's true that this is new territory for me, and that's why I've been extra cautious in following LN's instructions, plus I've watched hours of videos demonstrating the process. I thought I understood every aspect before I began the installation. LN's support is not helpful. Looks like I'm on my own in solving this problem.

How is it possible for a nut on a rotating stud to "set" in the first place? It would seem to defy the laws of physics. The only possibility I can think of is that tightening the nut causes the other end of the stud, the part that looks like a valve, to press tightly against the bearing itself, limiting the stud's rotation. I've tried tightening the nut as much as is possible with the socket and screwdriver, and that doesn't seem to fix the problem. The nut and stud are still rotating together. I don't have a pneumatic zip gun at my disposal, but I have a powered ratchet. I guess I could try that. Funny, there's no mention of zip guns or problems with "setting" the nut in LN's instructions.

Doggone it, I have years of experience working on conventional engines, but it doesn't help me in this situation. It's humbling. If JFP or someone else with experience installing the Solution can't help me with this, I'm S.O.L. At least, for the moment.