Swapping engines

[LoneWolfGal]

Those of you who have hoisted an M96, where on the engine did you attach the hoist's chains via metal straps bolted to these attachment points?

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Those of you who have hoisted an M96, where on the engine did you attach the hoist's chains via metal straps bolted to these attachment points?

I use heavy duty nylon rachat straps that I put around the crankshaft pulley in the front and around the transmission in the rear, if the transmission is still attached, or the engine stand adaptor if it is being installed on the engine stand.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

I use heavy duty nylon rachat straps that I put around the crankshaft pulley in the front and around the transmission in the rear, if the transmission is still attached, or the engine stand adaptor if it is being installed on the engine stand.

I've bolted hoists' chains to the blocks of a couple of conventional engines and it worked great, very secure. I've seen photos of M96 engines suspended that way on eBay. I should have paid closer attention to where they were attached. BTW, I bought one of these.

[LoneWolfGal]

Well, dang it. I can't find an engine on eBay that's suspended via chains with steel straps bolted somewhere on the engine. The way it had been done looked pretty slick. On a straight six and a V8, I bolted the hoist's chains to the exhaust manifolds' bolt holes (with the manifolds removed). The M96 is a way different bird, so in the interest of expediency I might have to use the nylon strap method like you guys did. I have a couple beefy straps with ratchets that should easily do the job.

[Danimal]

It looks like TuneRS also sells the Pedro DOF. They say it is something they developed. Maybe Pedro is also affiliated with them. Idk

Anyway, they show the exact same picture for their kit. But they have some install videos that might answer some of your questions.

I too would like to install the solution, but it’s half the cost of a replacement engine 😳

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Danimal

I too would like to install the solution, but it’s half the cost of a replacement engine 😳

That's exactly what I said. As an insurance buy, it's a horrible ROI. It's not like these engines would be otherwise bulletproof, anyway. If it's not the IMS, it's d-chunks or something else. When I had my transmission out for service, I decided to just put in a new bearing and call it a day, like Burner ended up doing. But it turns out the engine in mine was replaced with an M97 so I couldn't even do that.

[Newsguy]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

I use heavy duty nylon rachat straps that I put around the crankshaft pulley in the front and around the transmission in the rear, if the transmission is still attached, or the engine stand adaptor if it is being installed on the engine stand.

Two questions:
1. You didn't use the hoist point by the throttle body?
2. Did you find an engine stand adapter for the M96, and if so, for under $700?

[LoneWolfGal]

Ah... this is what I was talking about. I'll probably give it a try.

[Gilles]

LoneWolfGal, I have a cherry picker, and also the lift table that you already have and would like to share what worked out for me with the car on jack stands.

Since you will have a limited clearance between the floor and the chassis, if you put the engine/gearbox on the table lift, unfortunately it will not clear the frame.. and this process worked out for me.

Once the car is on four jack stands (high and level) then you can 'slide' the engine/gearbox from the back using a furniture dolly, or two large card boxes in top of each other so one would slide on top of the other one

After you get the powertrain underneath the car, you can lift it with the cherry picker so you can put the lift table underneath the engine, then you remove the engine, but to have more clearance I built a simple home made lift using Home Depot parts (less than $20..) and this thing would allow you to hang the engine/gearbox from the top and by turning the nut you can fine tune it (up-down) so you can easily bolt the gearbox and engine mounts.

The cherry picker is only used to raise the engine/gearbox after they are under the car and also to move the assembly around the garage

[LoneWolfGal]

Thanks for the info, Gilles. Much appreciated. I also picked up an engine support bar (see below), so I should be all set. (The support bar will supposedly "Make repair and clean easier." I'm still trying to decipher that, but I'm all for easy cleanup.) Kinda wish I had a second engine dolly, but I can make do with one, since I have the cherry picker to move the engines around the garage, as you pointed out.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/redirect?link_code=ur2&camp=1789&creative=9325&path=https://www.amazon.com/VEVOR-Support-Capacity-Transverse-Garages/dp/B096FY98BS/

[Gilles]

my engine support bar was a lot cheaper.. LOL

Regarding the furniture dolly, these cost between $10-$20 at Harbor freight, perhaps Walmart as well

[LoneWolfGal]

Well, I'll be a monkey's aunt! I found what I've been looking for right here:

https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/58273-engine-lift-hook.html

[Note to self: Search 986forum first.]

I plan use the described lift hook point in conjunction with another attachment point, one of the motor mount's bolt holes at the front of the engine, the same way the eBay engine was suspended. The lift hook attachment point alone is not intended to support the entire 570 lbs.

[elgyqc]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

Two questions:
1. You didn't use the hoist point by the throttle body?
2. Did you find an engine stand adapter for the M96, and if so, for under $700?

1. My friend Newart hung the whole engine by that little bracket near the throttle body, for a short period of time... but I only have used it as a backup to some other means. With another attachment point on the front of the engine, so it is only carrying half the weight, maybe... but it would make me nervous.

2. I use a standard adjustable adapter which works fine unless you want to split the crankcase halves, in that case you need the $pecial adapter. I was even able to change the IMS bearing with the standard adapter. When I split the crankcase on my broken 3.2 engine I did it on a pallet on the floor.

[LoneWolfGal]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

My friend Newart hung the whole engine by that little bracket near the throttle body, for a short period of time... but I only have used it as a backup to some other means. With another attachment point on the front of the engine, so it is only carrying half the weight, maybe... but it would make me nervous.

I like to live dangerously! On a serious note, the provided lift hook point seems fairly sturdy. Folks have apparently been using it, together with an attachment point in front, without a problem. But if I'm wrong and the engine crushes my head like a grape, I'll get back to you.

[Newsguy]

Originally Posted by elgyqc

.

2. I use a standard adjustable adapter which works fine unless you want to split the crankcase halves, in that case you need the $pecial adapter. I was even able to change the IMS bearing with the standard adapter. When I split the crankcase on my broken 3.2 engine I did it on a pallet on the floor.

The reason I ask is that I'm starting a rebuild and when I took it down, at the point of spltting the cases and getting the IMS out, it got very awkward with a standard adapter.
So I'm looking at options besides spending nearly a thousand dollars for the specific one. Of course, JFP in Philly says it can be done with a regular engine stand.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

The reason I ask is that I'm starting a rebuild and when I took it down, at the point of spltting the cases and getting the IMS out, it got very awkward with a standard adapter.
So I'm looking at options besides spending nearly a thousand dollars for the specific one. Of course, JFP in Philly says it can be done with a regular engine stand.

Why don't you assembly the engine halves on a table, then mount the assembly to the stand and then proceed with the heads and accessories?

[LoneWolfGal]

I've decided maybe I don't need no dang direct oil feed for my M96's IMS bearing. I'm leaning toward LN Engineering's ceramic double row IMS Retrofit. The price of $999 is a far cry from economical, but it's less painful than $1899. Not that I wouldn't choose the Solution if cost were no object, but after laying out $4200 for that new engine...

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by LoneWolfGal

Those of you who have hoisted an M96, where on the engine did you attach the hoist's chains via metal straps bolted to these attachment points?

Same style like elgyqc on previous message, but I routed the heavy duty (2000kg) ratchet strap apround both cyliner blocks being veeeeery careful not to allow the strap to compress anything besides the cylinder blocks.
Connected both ends of the strap at the center above the cranckcase. Worked real well and engine stayed level during the lift to engine stand. Same on oppsite direction as the engine built was ready.