Good suggestion, Grant. I'd like to straighten it, but I'd worry that the walls of the line were compromised. A hydraulic equipment shop could probably tell me definitively. I will look over the line on the old engine, as Al and 78F350 recommended. And I'll find out how much a new one costs — but I remember pricing the small plastic tube to the regeneration valve I replaced under the bank 2 intake manifold, and it made my hair stand on end. I ended up splicing in a short length of 5/16" rubber fuel line with hose clamps.

Talked to Pelican. They said Porsche calls it simply a "fuel hose," and Pelican would need to order it from Porsche. It's #8 in the exploded view below:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1743787432.jpg

The discounted price for a Genuine Porsche replacement through Pelican: $280.

Seems a little high...

You need to remember a couple of things when working on fuel injector flex lines:

1. These hoses are not common hydraulic hose, they are designed to withstand considerable pressure and not be degraged by ethanol containing fuels, which swell and destroy common fuel hose.
2. Clamps used on injector flex lines are not simple worm drive hose clamps, they are stainless steel fuel injector clamps:

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...psb2151a29.jpg

JFP, di you know how much pressure would the return line be handling?

It varies according to the amount of fuel being returned, but it could be as high as the full injector pressures, which is around 55 PSIG.

I'm not going to worry about the fuel line until after I get the cam chain rails* installed. I'm on the fourth day of a cold, so I haven't been out there much. I feel guilty about that. On the other hand, it has afforded me a chance to study videos about the procedure.

*That seems to be what many of the sellers have dubbed them.

Speaking of 350 cu in Chevy engines, last week I sold a TRW 350 rebuild kit I've been lugging around for years.

I think I've finally beaten my cold. It robbed me of two weeks I could have been working on the engine. However, I spent the time productively, studying how to replace the cam chain wear pads. Turns out the camshaft alignment/timing toolkit I borrowed from a generous forum member is the wrong kit for my 5-chain M96. The borrowed kit contains these tools:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1744751939.jpg

Here's the kit I need:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1744751971.jpg

Which means I'd better cough up $97.87 for the correct kit if I hope to get the car on the road before winter. I'm also ordering a few more parts for the procedure:

cam chains (2)
camshaft sprocket bolts (8)
spark plug tubes (6)
oil scavenger pump o-rings (2)
camshaft plugs (3)

I'll hold off on replacing the AOS and other parts until I finish installing the pads.

I ordered the cheap Chinese camshaft alignment/timing toolkit for $97.87. Sure, I could have shelled out $600 for Baum's (the gold standard) or an equivalently expensive kit from LN, both of which I'm sure are better quality. However, this will be a single-use kit for me (I hope). It might have a few small issues, too-long bolts and the like, but the main parts look solid, and I'm confident I have the wherewithal to get it working for this one job. Besides, I got nothin' against the Chinese. Hey, that's what Xi said!

https://www.amazon.com/MAXWIN-Camshaft-Alignment-1998-2011-1996-2011/dp/B0BYSRZTDQ/

Question: What sealant do you folks use for the camshaft and sump covers? I've always been partial to Curil T2 ("Das Original") for those types of applications, and I have a brand-new tube on hand, but I figured I'd run it by you anyhow, on the off chance Porsche considers the use of Curil a capital offense (and I wouldn't put it past them :p).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1744822166.jpg

Loctite SI 5900 Ready Gasket
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...2is&usqp=CAE&s

After studying all the videos, writeups, and advice I could find about timing the cams once the pads are installed I can state with conviction that there's a shipload of misinformation out there, and separating the wheat from the chaff is frustrating. Raby's video is great, but he glosses over some of the details. Once I figure out the procedure my palm will undoubtedly smack my forehead. "So THAT'S what they're trying to say." In the meantime, until my timing kit gets here, more studying.

My brother's also sold on that stuff. Jake Raby has a favorite sealant, but he's not saying what it is.

Works well, easy to control application with the pressurized container and nozzle, Jake used to recommend this stuff as well.

JFP, is this the equivalent of DreiBond, or in my case, Yamabond?

It is similar in performance to DreiBond, and a lot easier to find.

Gilles, I sent you a PM.

JFP, where do you obtain your Loctite SI 5900? Amazon has only a 5-oz tube for $68. :eek:

We get ours from a local auto parts store, if memory serves, about $17-18 per tube in a six tube case.

While waiting for the cam timing kit to arrive I figured I'd begin the process of dropping the old engine. After elevating the car on jack stands, I tried to put it in service mode, first making sure the parking brake was engaged and the relatively new battery was charged to the max. But nothing happened when I pressed the button. Nary even a click, buzz, or hum to be heard. The powered top was working properly back in September when I parked the car, but it ain't working now. "Fuse," I said to myself, "or relay." I removed the fuse panel cover to have a look. The little booklet thoughtfully provided under the cover indicated that B6 and D3 are the fuses for the convertible top:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745108456.jpg

However, B6 also powers the turn signals and windows, both of which are functional, so if a fuse is the culprit it would have to be D3. The fuse panel layout:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745108840.jpg

I couldn't help but note that the layout in the booklet doesn't seem to correspond to the panel's layout. The booklet shows five rows of fuses but the panel has six, including the row to the right of the spoiler switch. If the spoiler switch's row isn't relevant, is the top row's designation A or E?

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745109099.jpg

As for the relays, the convertible top's relay is supposedly a double relay. I read it, so it must be true. I'm guessing the largest relay in the photo is the one they're referring to:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745109263.jpg

Hope some kind soul can clear up my confusion.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745113202.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745113223.jpg

Yes, I figured that out, but thank you. Could you point out D3 on the panel itself? That's what I'm scratching my head about.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745120716.jpg

Much obliged, 78F350! That's exactly what I needed. I'll check that fuse, but it could easily be the relay instead. Relays get corroded. Tapping it on a hard surface like a pack of cigarettes often fixes the problem.

This may sound stupid, but did you release the latch? I have another convertible with automatic latches, and when try to open the Boxster, I often forget to open the latch. It's a brief "WTF??" moment until I remember I have to unlatch it.

And btw, that sixth row by the spoiler switch is for spare fuses.

Fortunately, I had the presence of mind to release the latch above before I pressed the button. And I removed one of fuses from the sixth row, realized there were no contacts for it in the panel, and concluded they were spares. As for the missing fuses in the panel, mostly in row E, I assume those are for options my car is not equipped with. (BTW, I need to need to make sure all fuses are facing the same way, to keep my OCD at bay.) Thanks for chiming in, Al. That was actually an astute question. Sometimes the most obvious things are easy to overlook.

You mentioned engaging the parking brake - is the dash light for the e-brake too?

Not sure if this is what you're asking, but the dash light is on when the parking brake is engaged, and off when it's not engaged. Which means the brake's microswitch is functional.

The 30 amp fuse at D3 looks fine. I removed the relay and tapped it on a hard surface to free up corroded internal contacts. Still no go. The total silence when the button is pressed is odd. I would think I'd hear a click, buzz, hum, or something. That's why I suspected a fuse or relay. The relay could still be bad, but I'm not sure how to check it with my multimeter.

Any chance that the motor for the top was disconnected while you were around the engine compartment?
Here's the Pelican Parts DIY for top repair which may or may not be helpful: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair/71-BODY-Convertible_Top_Repair.htm

Somewhere I've got a troubleshooting chart for the relay. It may be hidden in the Bentley Manual somewhere too. Here's a post from 997_986 that looks like it has the same procedure: https://986forum.com/forums/662149-post7.html

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745197589.jpg

Here's a picture of feral cat 'Handsome Dan'. He's very playful for a feral:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...4367fac0_c.jpg

Excellent question. But in the interest of expediency I'm taking another tack: I'll lower the top manually. Just as soon as I find out how to do it.

If you have a multimeter (or even a test light), I found this that 997_986 also posted:

I recommend checking these points before you test it with a new relay...

TROUBLESHOOTING ON THE RELAY CONTROLLER
Note: Control relay disconnected. The terminal designation on the relay (Fig. 596_97) is from the underside of the control relay.
1. connect the measuring device (voltmeter) to terminal 22 (earth) and terminal 23 (plus 30) on the relay plate. Display = battery voltage
2. connect the measuring device to terminal 22 (earth) and terminal 26. Switch on the ignition. Display = battery voltage
3. connect the measuring device to terminal 23 (plus) and terminal 15 (handbrake applied). Display = battery voltage
4. connect the measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 16 (close soft top button). Press close button. Display = battery voltage
5. connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 17 (open soft top button). Press the open button. Display = battery voltage
6. convertible top locked . Connect measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 14 (microswitch wind frame). Display = battery voltage
7. convertible top locked . Connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 29 (microswitch B-pillar). Display = battery voltage
8. top unlocked. Connect the measuring device to terminals 23 and 13 (microswitch closed, soft top compartment lid VDKD open). Display = battery voltage
9. convertible top unlocked . Connect the measuring device to terminal 23 and terminal 19 (microswitch wind frame). Display = battery voltage
Connect control relay to relay carrier. Open the soft top compartment lid and disconnect the electrical plug connection on the drive motor-top drive.
10. connect the positive of measuring device to terminal 1 (black cable) and the negative of measuring device to terminal 4 (green cable). Kl. 2 and Kl.
11. connect the positive of measuring device to terminal 4 (green cable) and the negative of measuring device to terminal 1 (black cable). Bridge terminals 2 and 3 with an auxiliary cable. Switch on the ignition and press the "Close" button. Display = battery voltage

Btw, afaik from 2000 onwards there are only two microswitches, one in the lock and the other in the planetary gearbox. No microswitch on the bracket of the motor.


The above, along with the diagram 78f350 gave you, will help you determine the health of the circuits and hopefully rule out either a mouse chewed out some wires or a bad relay.

For example, if you get no voltage when you test the handbrake circuit (test #3), but you have a handbrake light on the dash then you know the switch is fine, but there's a break in the wire before the relay.

I have to admit, test #10 has me puzzled as I don't know what they mean by "KI. 2 and KI."

But the other tests seem straightforward.

OOPS. Sorry, 78F450. I just saw that you posted a link to the same diagnostic procedure.

I'm shelving the issue with the insubordinate top mechanism for a while, because my cam timing kit arrived today. It's much larger and heavier than the IMS kits. I'm very pleased with the quality of the Chinese parts. Not sure what those long tools are used for, but I don't think I'll be using them during this procedure. Perhaps someone can shed some light on their function. Tomorrow I'm going to press this kit into service. Putting the top in service mode can wait until the new pads are installed and the cams are timed. Lexi, my Jack Russell Terrier, is eyeballing the kit with skepticism in the photo, but I think it's well worth $97.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1745281157.jpg

Awww Lexi!

Never underestimate a dog's intuition!

The long white nylon tool is used to insert the pistons circlip during assembly

I'll take your word for it. It's unlikely I'll ever have to try it out. As for the other tool, the black tube is metal.

The long white nylon tool is used to align the connecting rods with the piston pin openings in the pistons before the black metal tool is used to insert the piston pin retaining clips.

Thanks, JFP. They probably won't get any use unless I loan the kit. Here's another question for you: I removed the three chain tensioners during the IMS installation and I haven't put them back. I haven't seen it explicitly stated, but I figured I should hold off reinstalling them until after the new cam chain pads are in place, during the timing procedure. Correct?.

Leave them out until everything is back together and you are read to do cam allocation.