Ignition/Steering Lock Issue

[austinporsche]

I have a '98 Boxster with 78,000 miles.

Recently the igntion key receiver-barrel assembly has started acting up.

When I turn off the car, remove the key, and open the door the idiot lights stay on and the key-door alert beeps and the steering wheel does not lock.

I have to insert, turn and remove the key several times and otherwise jiggle it to get that steering wheel lock to "click" and the lights/beeping to go off.

So one question: is the steering lock mechanical only or electromechanical, ie., is there a solenoid in the receiver-barrel that engages the steering lock?

I also note that I recall there being one of those protective metal "doors" that keeps debris out of the barrel body when the key is removed, but if there is such a door, it isn't closing any more.

I sprayed some silicon lube into the body-barrel, but it didn't seem to help.

Any thoughts as to how I can get the key receiver to work properly again?

[blue62]

The steering lock is just mechanical.
You probably need to replace the electrical switch at the rear of the key tumbler.
That switch is a common issue with these cars.

[elgyqc]

Or this
https://986forum.com/forums/performance-technical-chat/75336-steering-locking-mechanism-problem-how-i-resolved.html

[austinporsche]

Thanks for the replies.

I think I am at the ignition key 101 level of understanding while you guys are at graduate level, so let me ask a couple of freshman questions.

There is a metal door that protests the key tumbler from debris, right? (let's call it the tumbler door for now). I assume this is mechanical and is part of the tumbler assembly (that can be removed, right? more on this later)

If there is this door, my tumbler door is not returning to a closed state and the (mechanical, righ?) steering wheel lock is not engaging (no click when removing the key and steering wheel is still turnable). Are these two things -- steering lock and tumbler door -- interconnected somehow in the larger assembly? This is causing a few of the dash indictors to remain on (odometer, some others) and a beeper warning to sound once the door is opened (presumably this is a "hey, the key is still in the ignition you idiot" message).

And where is this electrical switch at the back of the tumbler that you mention and how might it be related?

Final stupid unrelated question before a plan of action: are these keys chipped in the fob itself or the little remote control printed circuit board, i.e., is there an electronic enable starting element to this system or is it purely mechanical? The reason I ask is that when I got the car a year or so ago I got two key fobs, one good fob and one chewed up by previous owner's dog. The chewed up fob will turn the tumbler full to the crank the starter springed position in the tumbler but will not start the car.

Based on your posts and the other threads you pointed me to, if the tumbler door and steering lock operate in unison somehow, then either the door or the deadbolt at the steering column are sticking.

How should I proceed?

Remove the tumbler. Can I do this with the bigger ignition switch assembly in-place, at the dash using this key+paper clip method? (can you point me to a tutorial on how exactly to do that?

or

Remove the entire ignition switch-steering wheel lock assembly. Is there a how-to on that as well (and is the assembly installed at the factory with breakaway bolts, also known as shear head or fracture bolts?)

[austinporsche]

FYI, I managed to get the ignition lock cylinder out to take a look at it, but I can't get the immobilizer connector off as it appears to be broken on one side.

See pics.

How exactly does this connector work? Does it have two "prongs" and you squeeze it to remove it?

If that's how it works and I have one prong broken as shown in pictures, how do I release the broken side's prong? Maybe with a jeweler's screwdriver?

Any advice would be most appreciated.

[austinporsche]

So I looked at the other threads 'yall pointed me to.

A couple of questions:

1. No way to lubricate the bolt surfaces without removing the whole mechanism? It can't fit that tightly against the steering column that there isn't a little gap between the two (steering lock assembly and steering column) that would allow a little cleaner then lubricant to to sprayed into the gap?

2. One post mentioned drilling a hole on the left side of the assembly (closest to the electrical switch) and using that as a way to get lubricant into the bolt mechanism: has anyone ever actually done that?

3. What does the pin do at the bolt end of the steering lock assembly"; someone said to drill it out?