Replacing the ignition switch
 

From what I've read about it, replacing the switch should be a piece of cake, except for the fact that it's a bit cramped in the footwell. So I wormed my way under there, upside-down on my back, to have a look-see. And dear sweet Jesus, "cramped" is an understatement. But if two-hundred pounders can do it, I guess I can, too. But first I'll need to psych myself up for it.

Yep... BTDT...

Before I realized that you can simply buy the $15 ignition switch part, I had bought the entire assembly. Honestly, replacing the entire assembly was a bit time consuming but easy. Perhaps do it this way to get easier access to the ignition switch part?

Your comments remind me of the steps required to replace the clutch and brake master cylinders on the Fiat X1/9's.. :p

When working on the dash of the shark, I removed the seat which gave me more comfortable room. A 986 would be a bit different than a 928, but may be easier than if it was still in. Will the extra work to remove the seat make up for the ease of the job? IDK. I never had to change the ignition on my 986, so just making a suggestion.

It's possible I'll end up replacing the entire assembly -- the $15 switch and the mechanical steering lock, which costs considerably more (although eBay has a choice one for $39.99). I hope the electrical switch solves the problem, like it did for several other folks. Although it happened only a couple times out of maybe a thousand, the switch froze solid in the "off" position, and it took a lot of fiddling with it and swearing at it to unfreeze it. Only a couple times, but it's enough for me to order a $15 switch and install it, the contortions required notwithstanding, and hope to hell it takes care of the problem.

Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check it out. I'll have to remove the seats anyway to install Lseat.com's replacement leather covers. (Actually, I'm going to have an upholstery shop do the honors for a hundred a pop.) Another possibility is to remove the left vent assembly to get at the switch. Some folks have supposedly done it that way, but I always shoot for minimal disassembly, so I'll try the contortion method or your method first.

Contortion method certainly works. I had switch problems about 12-13 years ago (IIRC,I could not actually remove the key), and replacing the electrical section resolved it 100%.

Don't ask about details, I quite honestly don't remember:-)

It sounds like you have researched the job thoroughly and know what you are up against. I've had to replace my switch twice and I agree that it is not a task that you will enjoy. I weigh 190 pounds and I could fit in the space available. Based on your comments, it is likely that you are smaller than me. That will be an advantage. If you have the seats out for reupholstery, that will help.

I don't recommend that you replace the entire ignition assembly. Replacing the switch should solve your problem and you can use the money you save on something else your car is certain to need.

Good luck and let us know how it worked out.

Thanks, guys. That's music to my ears!

The mechanical steering lock is exactly that "Mechanical" consists mostly of a spring and plunger.
If you remove the assembly you will find that it malfunctions due to the old "lube" or grease solidifying around the moving parts..

So if you flush all the old grease out of it and start working it will to help free it up.
You have to get all the old grease out. Soak it in solvent blast it out with air pressure. soak it some more. Until it is clean of all old grease. Then use a light lube it will function like new.
I would be very surprised if you find that you need to replace the assembly.

Removing the electrical part of the ignition switch can be done several different ways. The way that involves the lowest number of steps is to work underneath the dash, squeezing oneself between the seat, the steering wheel, and the dashboard. This method is made somewhat easier by removing the driver’s seat (4 bolts, electrical connections, seat belt), but that approach adds steps and involves lifting the weight of the seat.
I have done this repair four times in my four Boxsters. At my age, 68, I am just too damn lazy to scrunch up underneath the dash.
The way that involves the least heavy lifting and uncomfortable postures is to ‘go in from above’, by removing the instrument binnacle, steering wheel, and left dash vent. This approach :
(1) Disconnect battery ground lead to kill the car’s electrical system, to avoid triggering airbag.
(2) Remove steering wheel airbag with T-27 bit.
(3) Remove steering wheel.
(4) Remove circular grille at left of binnacle to reveal T-20 screw; remove screw.
(5) Put hazard warning switch in active position. Using two small hooks, engage the two holes in the switch, hidden from direct view, and pull switch out, to reveal another T-20 screw; remove screw.
(6) Pry binnacle upward to free it from its blind fasteners, and disconnect the electrical connections from its back and the electrical connector for the hazard switch.
(7) Remove the light switch knob by pressing upward with 1/8” straight-blade screwdriver at the 6 o’clock position of the knob while pulling gently on knob. Then, using 24mm (or is it 22mm?) socket, remove retaining nut from light switch.
(8) In left door jamb end of dash, remove two T-20 screws from dash end. Applying pressure at top edge, disengage the blind fasteners and remove the plastic dash vent.
(9) Using T-20 driver, remove one sheet-metal screw retaining plastic air duct, and remove the duct.
With the binnacle and left air duct removed, the two small set screws which retain the electrical ignition switch can be backed out several turns, to allow the switch to be pulled free from the electrical contacts. DO NOT REMOVE THE SETSCREWS! It is unnecessary, and they are difficult to replace. Getting a small screwdriver to engage the slot in the set screw requires some hand gymnastics, and usually requires working through a mirror.
The purpose of the ‘dissection’ is to allow access with the left hand through the dash vent area and the right hand through the binnacle area.

Notice that almost all these steps are done while you are seated in the driver’s seat, except to remove the left dash end, and to disconnect the wiring on the back of the binnacle. No heavy lifting, and no awkward contortions. Many steps, but simple steps.

What is the best brand switch? I need to do this again this spring and would rather not have to do it again in a couple years.

Kevin, I believe that with the seats out, you would definitely have a lot more room for yourself :)

Doc, many thanks for the step-by-step. That's the kind of info that makes this forum a valuable resource. As I said, I always shoot for minimal disassembly, but it's reassuring to have a more comprehensive approach in my hip pocket, just in case. All the best to you.

Before I bought the replacement switch I researched it extensively and came away with the impression that the inexpensive switches are likely to last just as long as the OEM units, so I bought one for $15 from Amazon. On the other hand, if it's necessary for your peace of mind, go with OEM.

That's valuable information (even though I hope I don't have to use it). Many thanks, Blue!

By the way, PedrosGarage has an excellent how-to, complete with photos. Best I've seen online.

https://www.pedrosgarage.com/site-3/ignition-switch.html

I probably should have posted here but didn't see this thread.....

Anyone in the Chicago area that's done this and wants to get paid to do it again? Either an "indi or private person who's done it before.....I have the replacement switch and the tools.

Message me if interested.

Hope your tools include a really, really short screwdriver!

yep....several from small to tiny all very short.

Remove vent next to ignition switch first
 

For me this was easier access than under the dash.

David

A number of folks agree with you, David. I think I'm convinced. I wasn't looking forward to shoehorning myself into the footwell.

https://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/46411-ignition-switch-replacement-holy-crap.html#post346988
This older post describes how to replace the switch by going through the vent area.

I changed the ignition switch from underneath the dash and found it to be fairly easy task with the exception of messing around with my eyeglasses to see what I'm doing :rolleyes:

Deleted post.

Thank you very much for the link. Very informative. I'm about ready to attempt it.

Question: Since the switch is part of the electrical system, is it necessary to disconnect the battery first?

That would be a very good idea.

Then I'm glad I disconnected the negative terminal and insulated the cable end in a plastic bag. Thanks for the confirmation.

I managed to get the task half-finished before I had to knock off for the day to attend to something else. First, I removed the driver's side vent, which indeed provides better access to the switch. Then I unplugged the wiring harness connector from the back of the switch and had just enough time remaining to loosen one of the set screws (see photo). Even with access through the vent, getting a small screwdriver on those screws is a challenge, I kid you not. Wrapping things up will have to wait until tomorrow. I hope it's not a godawful thrash to get it back together.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711765544.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711765594.jpg

So???? How did it go?

After you finished the job (assuming you did) and looking back on the job, would you advise me to go through the vent or from under the dash?

Another question: IF going through the vent, can you access BOTH set screws or do you need to go below the dash to access the other set screw? (in other words from BOTH positions depending on which set screw)

Ideally it would best to BOTH set screws from the vent but "ideally" isn't always possible.....lol

Another work stoppage, folks. I managed to get the old switch out, after a modicum of cajoling and a lot of swearing. It was immediately obvious that there are substantial differences between old and new. Perhaps the differences are inconsequential, but until I determine that for sure the project has come to a screeching halt. For your viewing pleasure, here are photos with the switches positioned as much as possible in the same orientation. The white switch is the original, the black one is new.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711854399.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711854426.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711854454.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711854479.jpg

Here's the Pelican parts Tech Article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm

Here's a part of it that may be helpful to you:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711857906.jpg
:cheers:

Edit... just for fun, I checked the link to the part that Pelican showed. It is NLA.

Try This: 4B0-905-849
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1711859337.jpg

I just now ordered this switch from Amazon, a 4B0-905-849, which is identical to the one I took out:

https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-4B0-905-849/dp/B0066SFX1Q/

It won't get here until Wednesday, which is fine with me. It will give me time to recuperate from the past couple days' contortions and psych myself up for the ordeal ahead. I've completely rebuilt several automobile engines, one transmission, and two overhead-cam motorcycle engines, but replacing this switch is by far the most challenging mechanical project I've ever attempted, due solely to the inaccessibility. It can give you nightmares about being trapped in a claustrophobically tight place. Maybe the second one would be easier... and I hope to hell there won't be a second one.

But I'm not one to complain.

I'm only half-finished, but I can answer your questions. Yes, you can theoretically access both set screws through the vent opening -- but I couldn't manage it, and Lord knows I tried. I ended up upside down in the footwell again to get the second set screw out. Maybe you'd have better luck. Some folks have supposedly pulled it off. But if I had to do it over again, I probably wouldn't remove the vent.

My hat's off to you, fellow pilot. Maybe my 986 has it in for me. The main problem I had was breaking those *^%(=@$! set screws loose. They were exceptionally tight and I couldn't apply enough torque to the tiny screwdriver with my thumb and index finger. Perhaps some testosterone would've helped, but I didn't want to start shaving my face.

Thank you for the helpful links. Unfortunately, I couldn't see the part number until I got the switch out. Amazon's "This part will fit your car" assurance cannot be depended on.

Amazon goes by what the manufacturer states, which in this case (URO) is an unreliable one........

Tell me about it.

JFP, if I may, I'd like to ask you a question. Other folks have replaced the switch without encountering the difficulties I did. Am I just a wimp, or what?