P0442 CEL odd smoke test result

[Voynich]

Hey guys- I've got a P0442 that keeps coming back. New gas cap was the first stop, CEL came back about 250 miles later. Evap vent solenoid (the one under the driver's side cylinder bank) seems like it's good- pulling no vacuum on start up. Engine seems to run fine, not down on power at all.

Ran a smoke test on the evap system- ran the smoke through the gas cap. Since I had an old cap, drilled a hole in it, and ran the hose through the hole. Not sure how good the seal is, but it's tight, and no smoke came out. Front right removed, fender liner pulled out to keep an eye on all the evap bits stuffed under there. Smoke test ran about 15 minutes, and I noticed that smoke was coming out from next to the steering rack. I can't see the top of the fuel tank, but it looks like the smoke is coming down the side of the tank.

I'm confused- anybody smart out there that can point me in the right direction before I give up and take it to a shop? Smog's due in three weeks....

Thanks!

[Voynich]

For anybody looking at this in the future, here's what I found and how I sorted it-

I can see the top of the fuel tank, but it took me a bit to figure that out. Once the battery and battery tray were removed, I could see the top of the tank. Same thing that has been posted on this forum before- on top of the white plastic fuel sending unit, I had fresh gas sloshing around. The plastic barb for the evap system was cracked. (on the top of the sending unit, it's the barb that comes out of the top, and goes 90 degrees) Common failure, from what I can tell. This is where my smoke was coming from, and where the gas was leaking.

Ordered a new fuel sending unit and sending unit seal from Pelican parts- make sure you get the right one. I think the design changed from 02 to 03. The tutorial on Pelican Parts on how to replace the fuel pump goes through all the removal and install steps that you will need. They do recommend replacing the fuel pump at the same time, although I didn't. Make sure your fuel lines inside the tank are routed correctly- if you try to put the sending unit back in with the lines incorrectly routed, it ain't going to fit. Line up the arrow on the sending unit with the marks on the body of the fuel tank, and then attach your lines. Seemed to stay out of the way, and the sending unit slid in perfectly after that.

In regards to the fuel pump, in retrospect I can see why they recommend replacing it. There are two fuel fittings and an electrical fitting on the inside of the sending unit (in the tank). Electrical fitting and one of the fuel fitting came off easily (the fuel fitting with a single pushbutton to remove it- same as the one on the top of the sending unit you removed) The second fuel fitting comes straight from the pump. This one has two pushbuttons, opposite each other. Took me almost an hour to get it off. The buttons are supposed to stick out of the side of the fitting, and make it relatively easy to push and remove. Mine were recessed some, and difficult to push. Another poster here has had the same issue. Plus, I wasn't pulling hard enough because I was afraid of breaking the fitting. Finally got it off, but the problem is putting it back on- it may just fall off under pressure because of the frailty of the clip, once you've got it all back together. Easiest (but most expensive) way would be to replace the pump at the same time you are doing the sending unit, because it comes with a new fuel fitting as part of the pump.
To make sure mine wouldn't pop off under pressure from the pump, I used a mechanic's pick to push from the inside of the fitting out on the buttons, just to make sure they were seated. I'll find out if that works or not over the next couple of weeks....

Tools you need if you do this-
8 mm (for the battery terminals)
13 mm (battery hold down bolt, and the four nuts on the battery tray)
Hammer/chisel or screwdriver (for knocking the fuel sending unit lockdown ring loose)
Patience.

Oh, and don't let the frunk close all the way with battery removed!