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Old 10-23-2023, 05:54 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by redpepperracing View Post
Yup: "https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B09BQQNN1T"

It took a bit of trial and error to get the positive/negative on the plug sorted, and it's a bit of a finagle to get the wire clip around the base (you have to fully remove the wire clip from the headlight and wrap it around the bulb, then put it back) but other than that they seem to work. I read somewhere that the ones with an inline 'ballast' (and I use that term VERY loosely) were 'better', but take that with a grain of salt.
Thanks for the link, but it raises a new question. There are 2 bulbs at that link. one with a heat sink and the "mini" without the heat sink. Which one did you get?

And this raises yet another question for me... what is with the heatsinks for LED bulbs? I thought that LEDs run at lower watts and so should produce less heat yet some of them have heat sinks which the original halogens don't seem to need.
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Arctic Silver 2000 Boxster S - bought with a broken engine, back on the road with the engine replaced
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Old 10-24-2023, 02:51 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elgyqc View Post
Thanks for the link, but it raises a new question. There are 2 bulbs at that link. one with a heat sink and the "mini" without the heat sink. Which one did you get?

And this raises yet another question for me... what is with the heatsinks for LED bulbs? I thought that LEDs run at lower watts and so should produce less heat yet some of them have heat sinks which the original halogens don't seem to need.
The heat sinks are for the electronics which are required to control current flow to the LED.

Remember that the D in LED stands for diode. A diode is, for all practical purposes, an electrical check valve. Put positive voltage on the output and it will have (more or less) infinite resistance, so no current will flow. Put positive voltage on the input and it will have zero resistance - ie, it will be a short circuit.
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