Low Oil Pressure Light on Cold Start

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by ecp

I am wondering if the spin on filters are collapsing internally?

Extremely unlikely; spin on filters are mechanically much better made than the factory cartridge filters (which are much more prone to failures). In all the years I have been changing customer's oil filters and cutting every spin on apart to check the media, I have never seen one even distorted much less collapsed. It just doesn't happen.

Your cold start oiling issue rests elsewhere (pump, oil itself, bypass pressure relief system, etc.).

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Extremely unlikely; spin on filters are mechanically much better made than the factory cartridge filters (which are much more prone to failures). In all the years I have been changing customer's oil filters and cutting every spin on apart to check the media, I have never seen one even distorted much less collapsed. It just doesn't happen.

Your cold start oiling issue rests elsewhere (pump, oil itself, bypass pressure relief system, etc.).

JFP, you're one of my Number 1 go-tos as 99% of the time I'll cede to your recommendations. That said...

I'm curious why you didn't recommend OP remove the adapter and filter and reinstall the cannister/filter to see if the problem replicates. Word?

[ecp]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

Extremely unlikely; spin on filters are mechanically much better made than the factory cartridge filters (which are much more prone to failures). In all the years I have been changing customer's oil filters and cutting every spin on apart to check the media, I have never seen one even distorted much less collapsed. It just doesn't happen.

Your cold start oiling issue rests elsewhere (pump, oil itself, bypass pressure relief system, etc.).

It was interesting that the issue went away after I changed the filter, and then has come back now that I have put the same type of filter I had on when I first installed the adapter. So I have gone through 3 spin on filters, the two NAPA gold ones that LN sells with the adapters have been problem ones, and then and STP gold equivalent I got at the store didn't give me oil light issues.

If you don't think its the filter then where would you recommend starting? I already installed a new spring along with the 997 part, and was looking at installing the new hex drive for the pump, along with new gears, but would probably want to do anything else while I'm in there.

[Homeoboxter]

Different filters may have different resistance for the oil flow, depending on the pore size. Normally this should not make any difference to a properly functioning engine. Probably you have a leak somewhere in the system. This can be a lot of things, like a broken o-ring at the pick up tube, damaged oil pump rotors or something at the relief valve, etc. I would think the oil pump can`t keep up with the increased resistance given by the better filter. With the engine warming up it gets easier for the pump to push the oil through the filter material, hence the oil lamp flickering stops. I would drop the sump and start inspecting things around there.

[ecp]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Different filters may have different resistance for the oil flow, depending on the pore size. Normally this should not make any difference to a properly functioning engine. Probably you have a leak somewhere in the system. This can be a lot of things, like a broken o-ring at the pick up tube, damaged oil pump rotors or something at the relief valve, etc. I would think the oil pump can`t keep up with the increased resistance given by the better filter. With the engine warming up it gets easier for the pump to push the oil through the filter material, hence the oil lamp flickering stops. I would drop the sump and start inspecting things around there.

I looked, seems like I have some oil coming from where the pump slides into the block, where the hex drive is. I have a feeling there’s a problem that’s just being highlighted by the more resistance from the oil filter. The sump has definitely been dropped before. Going to change the filter and try cranking it with the ignition relay pulled and then see what happens when it fires up. If it’s fine after the cranking then I’m going to lean towards a worn pump not building pressure fast enough

[ecp]

Just an update, saturday I took the car out. When I got to the light in my neighborhood it started running rough. I shut it off and started it back up, ran fine. Went to the gas station and filled up and it was fine. Was decelerating down a slight hill and the oil light came on. Shut it off and coasted and pulled over. Started it up and it was fine all the way home. I have it up on ramps at my house. Started it up the next day, same clanking and oil light. Shut it off. Then later in the day, I pulled the ignition fuse and cranked it quite a bit. Put the fuse back in and it started up flawlessly. No odd noises and it seemed to run really really smooth.

As of right now my plan is to replace the oil pump and also drop the oil pan and reseal/ inspect pickup tube and everything else. The oil pump looks like no joke of a job so I’m not looking forward to it, but it is leaking and needs to be addressed anyway.
Does this sound like the right path to go down? I’m not driving the car except in the garage once I have room. Too scared of that light coming back on. It’s really confusing how sometimes the engine actually runs rough, but was flawless after just cranking it extra with the fuse pulled.

[blue62]

First thing is do what JFP said in his post #8.
second do what it takes to fix the oil leak at the oil pump.
Then re-evaluate the situation.

[ecp]

Originally Posted by blue62

First thing is do what JFP said in his post #8.
second do what it takes to fix the oil leak at the oil pump.
Then re-evaluate the situation.

I’m gonna get a new filter and get a gauge. Any suggestions for pressure gauges? Or could I rent one from the auto parts store that would work? Also where is the oil pressure sender so I know where to hook it up?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by ecp

It was interesting that the issue went away after I changed the filter, and then has come back now that I have put the same type of filter I had on when I first installed the adapter. So I have gone through 3 spin on filters, the two NAPA gold ones that LN sells with the adapters have been problem ones, and then and STP gold equivalent I got at the store didn't give me oil light issues.

If you don't think its the filter then where would you recommend starting? I already installed a new spring along with the 997 part, and was looking at installing the new hex drive for the pump, along with new gears, but would probably want to do anything else while I'm in there.

First place I would start in my shop would be to pull out the electronic oil pressure sender and temporarily install a known quality mechanical gauge to see what the pressure readings actually are when the phenomenon usually occurs (we have seen multiple examples of weak or failing sending units creating problems). If changing the filter brand still changes the oil pressure, the filter is the issue. Just as an aside, we do not use the NAPA gold filters, we buy our Wix XP filters (Wix XP filters are specifically designed for use with full synthetic oils) by the case and can say that we have never had any problems with them. Wix used to be the supplier for NAPA, but I do not know if that is still the case.