Asking a different way

[JDMsurprise]

David, no one is fixing this for you, but you or your mechanic. This is a simple 4 pole relay that is super simple to diagnose. I know for a fact that the early cars (and as near as I can tell ALL 986 as I can best decipher from the wiring diagrams) are POSITIVE side switched. You have already tested the load side (the fat terminals by jumping those). Remove the fuel pump relay and get under the dash with a test light and poke around, you can literally do no harm. You are looking for constant ground and switched positive from the ECM. The switched positive might give you trouble, as you need to cycle the key. At least do yourself a favor and check this. Also, buy yourself a new fuel pump relay if the above test show you have power and ground on the the trigger side of the relay.

[Luckyman01]

A savvy fiend came by and we took a stab. We focused on the two fuel based relays. The fuel pump one up under the das and the one back in the trunk in right side.

To be honest I was barely keeping up and I will ask him to answer any technical questions.

Both relays passed bench test, clicked and functioned as expected.

However when a voltmeter was used, one pin measured 12 and the other 3.5 on the under the dash relay.

The back one seemed to get inconsistent signals from the magic box, TME, ECM ?

In fact when one turned off the ignition one side continued to show 12 volts when my friend believed it should drop to zero when the key is removed.


Anyhow I am not real technical of a guy. I can source the answer to clarifying questions.

While mu buddy when home and will think about it and come back, he is leaning towards a faulty DME as it seems to be sending incosistand signals to the DME relay in the trunk, I am clueless.

Does anyone know have a wiring diagram for the DME itself?

David