This totally confuses me (sponsor peek at this)

[ike84]

Hey lucky, I responded to your pm.

Let us know what you figure out.

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[Luckyman01]

Have not figured anything out except that installing a cps did nothing to help.

And input from Ike plus how loose the key is in the switch, I am starting to go toward the mechanical part of the switch. I have no idea what the implications about the imobilizer might be.

I do have a electrical part of the ignition that I may install tomorrow, wife willing.

David

[Luckyman01]

I feel like I am just throwing parts at her now without success. Yesterday was about the electrical part of the ignition switch, replaced with new, no improvement.

I guess I will look at the mechanical part today,

Really bummed,

David

[blue62]

Originally Posted by Luckyman01

I feel like I am just throwing parts at her now without success. Yesterday was about the electrical part of the ignition switch, replaced with new, no improvement.

I guess I will look at the mechanical part today,

Really bummed,

David

Some testing with a Digital multi meter would be better way to go.
You could start at the relay and test the wiring and connections back to the DME.
Or start at the DME and see if your getting voltage from the DME for the relay.
You need wiring diagrams so you know what is what.

[Luckyman01]

I do have a Bentley book and will try to do this,

Thanks guys

[Luckyman01]

A savvy fiend came by and we took a stab. We focused on the two fuel based relays. The fuel pump one up under the das and the DME one back in the trunk in right side.

To be honest I was barely keeping up and I will ask him to answer any technical questions.

Both relays passed bench test, clicked and functioned as expected.

However when the pump relay was reinstalled, when a voltmeter was used, one pin measured 12 and the other 3.5 on the under the dash relay.

The back one seemed to get inconsistent signals from the magic box, TME, ECM ?

In fact when one turned off the ignition one side continued to show 12 volts when my friend believed it should drop to zero when the key is removed.


Anyhow I am not real technical of a guy. I can source the answer to clarifying questions.

While mu buddy when home and will think about it and come back, he is leaning towards a faulty DME as it seems to be sending incosistand signals to the DME relay in the trunk, I am clueless.

Does anyone know have a wiring diagram for the DME itself?

David