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Old 09-22-2022, 02:42 PM   #1
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I would be checking the CPS signal at the DME plug, which takes the entire harness into consideration.
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Old 09-22-2022, 03:13 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
I would be checking the CPS signal at the DME plug, which takes the entire harness into consideration.
That is also an option.
When testing something that generates a signal or a voltage like a CPS or a car battery
I try to start closest to the signal source when possible.
That way if the signal source tests good it is a wiring or connector problem.
If I start from the far end and don't get a signal I don't know if it is wiring or a connector or the signal source that is at fault until I do more testing.
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Old 09-22-2022, 09:33 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
That is also an option.
When testing something that generates a signal or a voltage like a CPS or a car battery
I try to start closest to the signal source when possible.
That way if the signal source tests good it is a wiring or connector problem.
If I start from the far end and don't get a signal I don't know if it is wiring or a connector or the signal source that is at fault until I do more testing.
I think if the CPS or the related wiring was bad then the engine wouldn`t run with the pump relay bypassed. He started the thread with stating he jumped the relay and the engine ran fine.
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Old 09-23-2022, 06:17 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Homeoboxter View Post
I think if the CPS or the related wiring was bad then the engine wouldn`t run with the pump relay bypassed. He started the thread with stating he jumped the relay and the engine ran fine.
You have a good point.
My idea of checking the CPS with a volt meter is that it is the easiest quickest way to confirm the condition of an electrical component and any wiring or connections involved as part of the diagnostic process.
No need to remove or replace the part if it tests good.
Totally eliminates becoming a parts changer and tail chasing. (where electrical parts are concerned).
Never could understand swapping electrical parts side to side (like coil packs or o2 sensors) to see if the fault moves with the electrical component.
Or replacing an electrical component because it is thought to be at fault.
When all you have to do is use a volt meter and back probe a connection or use the needles and pierce the wires.
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Old 09-23-2022, 09:34 AM   #5
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Looks like I have attracted many of the best and brightest

Full disclosure, I am not the best with a voltmeter, how I should be able to test for voltage and continuity.

However, is there general consensus that because the car runs with a jumper in place the cps is OK?

IKE84 states,
"]This may actually be due to your ignition tumbler. If your dme is dry and all other systems are working properly, but your relay is not energizing while starting, I would look at the ignition wiring and tumbler.

I noticed that when I put the jumper in place, the fuel pump fires up before I turn the key. Does this Support Ikes thoughts?

When you guys refer to the DME, is that the box in the trunk behind the carpet? When my immobilizer was rained on I sent the board from under the seat and the what I thought was the CPU to folks in Florida.

jfp states; I would be checking the CPS signal at the DME plug, which takes the entire harness into consideration. I feel clueless, is this the box behind the carpet and do I just need to become more learned of the wiring diagram in the Bentley book?

blues62, I live about 100 miles west of you so maybe one day we can meet F2F.

Anyhew fellas, any more guidance is welcomed.
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Old 09-23-2022, 10:15 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Luckyman01 View Post
blues62, I live about 100 miles west of you so maybe one day we can meet F2F.
Me too! If I ever happen to be in that area I would definitely be visiting Blue not just as an avid gearhead, but also to check out his smoked salmon..
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Old 09-23-2022, 11:35 AM   #7
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Or he could share his brine recipe, not likely, my own brother will not share his
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