Cooling problems

[ecp]

Originally Posted by ike84

As luck would have it, I took my car out today for the first hard runs of the season. Wifey went with me and then we stopped for coffee afterward. Pulled into the lot and there was coolant dumping everywhere. Popped the trunk and there's coolant all around the cap. Floor is bone dry though.

I'm starting to think that replacing the cap should be a yearly preventive maintenance on these cars.

Unless I've just destroyed my water pump and got extremely lucky... I'll find out when the new cap gets here!

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

I think the cap was the beginning of my problems, that was ignored, and then things went downhill from there. See what the cap does and make sure you refill and get the air out. Something I saw someone do as a temporary fix was put nylon tape on the tank threads to seal the cap better.

I got it back on the road today, runs as good as ever, so far so good. Runs much cooler than before with the low tstat, and I believe I have most of the air purged out of the system. In the old coolant I would see some occasional bits floating in the tank but it’s much cleaner now. May your luck be better than mine, but don’t worry, water pump and thermostat isn’t anything to be afraid of if it comes down to it.

[ike84]

Originally Posted by ecp

I think the cap was the beginning of my problems, that was ignored, and then things went downhill from there. See what the cap does and make sure you refill and get the air out. Something I saw someone do as a temporary fix was put nylon tape on the tank threads to seal the cap better.



I got it back on the road today, runs as good as ever, so far so good. Runs much cooler than before with the low tstat, and I believe I have most of the air purged out of the system. In the old coolant I would see some occasional bits floating in the tank but it’s much cleaner now. May your luck be better than mine, but don’t worry, water pump and thermostat isn’t anything to be afraid of if it comes down to it.

I've done 2 tstats now actually. The first was an ln engineering, it failed after less than 2 years smh. Now I have a BW and it's holding up but only 1 year old.

For purging the air, I drive around for a week or so with the purge valve opened. Seems to work well and I don't fill with the complicated procedure Wayne describes or buying an airlift. Just to of after every drive until it stays full.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

[ecp]

Originally Posted by ike84

I've done 2 tstats now actually. The first was an ln engineering, it failed after less than 2 years smh. Now I have a BW and it's holding up but only 1 year old.

For purging the air, I drive around for a week or so with the purge valve opened. Seems to work well and I don't fill with the complicated procedure Wayne describes or buying an airlift. Just to of after every drive until it stays full.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk

Hopefully my new ln lasts longer than that. I’m putting off the heater core for now because I’ll be taking the car on a trip this weekend and don’t have time. Hopefully it’ll last after going through some mountains again, excited to find out though.

[Rob175]

A "bone dry" rear trunk CARPET doesn't necessarily mean the cap or the coolant tank isn't leaking......(ask me how I know).

I thought mine wasn't leaking until I removed the rear truck fabric liners, and LIFTED UP the composite raised trunk floorboards......that's where the coolant was pooling up! Only a few drops of coolant would leak out through some of the small trunk seams and rubber plugs onto my garage floor.

The plastic coolant tanks eventually develop tiny spider cracks that only leak after the coolant comes up to temp and the pressure causes the spider cracks to expand and leak. (my plastic tank was 20 years old) I wound up placing a wadded up paper towel around and under my plastic tank and took a long drive to heat things up....when I arrived back home the towel was wet....not soaked but wet.