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Old 02-03-2022, 03:40 PM   #1
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More strange engine issues...

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Last edited by kbod; 08-23-2023 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 02-03-2022, 04:15 PM   #2
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2001 Boxster, 116,000 miles. I bought this car with a p1341 code for bank 1 variocam solenoid, I swapped it with a used unit and it kept throwing the code and running like crap. Changed the air oil separator, cleaned throttle body, and tried correcting the timing and no matter what the car wouldnt run right. After dropping the complete engine and replacing the variocam solenoid again with a 1400$ oem porsche unit, replaced the ims bearing with the LN engineering upgrade replaced all the cam cover seals and camshaft wear pads. changed the rms and all the seals, put another brand new AOS on (oem) changed the vaccum lines and hoses for the brake booster, replaced the fuel filter aswell. after putting in new fluids and everything the car runs pretty good. theres a slight ticking sound on cold starts, but no more check engine light or stalling after coming to a stop. Heres the issue now. The car still has a significant idle drop when coming to a stop and almost stalls, also when filling with fuel the car does not start without mashing the pedal while cranking and has strange issues like that. lastly the car has a rough idle where the engine vibrates a lot, fuel economy is meh 15mpgish. I replaced the charcoal canister and solenoids next to the canister and it still has the issue. as of right now there are no codes anymore, although I cant pass smog since the Secondary air injection and evaporative monitors wont say ready despite driving alot. any help or advice to fix the idle and monitors would be greatly appreciated!
A major clue I see when reading your post is:
"When filling with fuel the car does not start without mashing the pedal while cranking"
So on a modern day car "mashing the pedal (throttle) just gives the engine more air.
The DME/ECU gives the engine gas.
So your fuel air mixture is to fuel rich after fueling so it will not start until you give it more air by "Mashing the Pedal"
So my guess is that you have an issue with the EVAP system. bad purge valve or the like. An EVAP purge valve stuck in the open position allows fuel vapors back into the intake. So it causes a to fuel rich situation after filling up.
EVAP systems can be a PITA.
Your stalling when coming to a stop can be caused by this same situation.
or.... a vacuum leak.
Have you done a vacuum test with a proper vacuum gauge???
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Old 02-04-2022, 10:21 AM   #3
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A major clue I see when reading your post is:
"When filling with fuel the car does not start without mashing the pedal while cranking"
So on a modern day car "mashing the pedal (throttle) just gives the engine more air.
The DME/ECU gives the engine gas.
So your fuel air mixture is to fuel rich after fueling so it will not start until you give it more air by "Mashing the Pedal"
So my guess is that you have an issue with the EVAP system. bad purge valve or the like. An EVAP purge valve stuck in the open position allows fuel vapors back into the intake. So it causes a to fuel rich situation after filling up.
EVAP systems can be a PITA.
Your stalling when coming to a stop can be caused by this same situation.
or.... a vacuum leak.
Have you done a vacuum test with a proper vacuum gauge???
First id like to thank you on how helpful you have been ever since I bought this Boxster, now for the evap system, I took off the passenger fender liner and replaced the 2 solenoids along with the charcoal canister, so for the evap system that leaves the lines themselves along with the solenoid under the intake manifold. I suppose my next move is to first do a smoke test to see if there are any post MAF vacuum leaks, then if nothing obvious shows its to test the evap valve under the throttle and presumably replace those. While the little vacuum hoses have all been replaced the vacuum canister and solenoids haven't so those might be an issue. I was also considering the possibility of a leaky injector? but that would probably throw a MIL
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Old 02-04-2022, 03:00 PM   #4
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With all the parts you are throwing at it, it might not be a bad idea to have a shop spend an hour or 2 doing a diagnostic on it so you can replace only what is necessary to fix the issue. Been down this route with other cars. Sometimes it is a good idea to take a step back and have another set of eyes on an issue vs replacing parts that may not even be the issue.

I suspect you have a vacuum leak and/or an issue with a ground wire or wiring issue somewhere
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Old 02-04-2022, 03:21 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by kbod View Post
First id like to thank you on how helpful you have been ever since I bought this Boxster, now for the evap system, I took off the passenger fender liner and replaced the 2 solenoids along with the charcoal canister, so for the evap system that leaves the lines themselves along with the solenoid under the intake manifold. I suppose my next move is to first do a smoke test to see if there are any post MAF vacuum leaks, then if nothing obvious shows its to test the evap valve under the throttle and presumably replace those. While the little vacuum hoses have all been replaced the vacuum canister and solenoids haven't so those might be an issue. I was also considering the possibility of a leaky injector? but that would probably throw a MIL
A smoke test will only show you obvious vacuum leaks.

Smoke tests cannot test vacuum on the down stream side of a one-way vacuum operated valve.
Such as the one in the SAI system.
So for example a smoke test would not detect a vacuum leak in the SAI vacuum canister.
A vacuum gauge only costs around $20.00-$25.00
Anyone who tinkers with cars should have one and know how to use it.
They are a very useful diagnostic tool.
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Old 02-19-2022, 01:32 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
A smoke test will only show you obvious vacuum leaks.

Smoke tests cannot test vacuum on the down stream side of a one-way vacuum operated valve.
Such as the one in the SAI system.
So for example a smoke test would not detect a vacuum leak in the SAI vacuum canister.
A vacuum gauge only costs around $20.00-$25.00
Anyone who tinkers with cars should have one and know how to use it.
They are a very useful diagnostic tool.
I ordered a vacuum tester but I have a whole new issue, so the car runs fine on cold start although the other day I got a P0410 and P1411 Code on cold start, other then that it drives fine but when I come to a stop the idle dips way down and comes back up and it runs a little rough and vibrates at idle. sometimes when I come to a stop it will stall but comes back to life, the other day I got to a stop light and the car stalled and would not start up no matter how much I tried with pedal or anything, it was completely dead, the tachometer did move so I dont think its a crank sensor, but after having the car towed home and sitting for a few hours it started right up as if nothing ever happened. Would this along with my issues at the gas station indicate a fuel pump failing? Im not sure if a simple vaccum leak would cause these conditions

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