[QUOTE=blue62;643432]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrRobin
It does not happen often but they (MAF sensors) can meet those voltage specs. and still be faulty.
If you try cleaning the MAF only use a MAF cleaning spray. Don't touch any part except the plastic housing and air dry only. They are touchy little devils. Cleaning only works about 50% of the time.
Also if your running anything other then a stock air filter, non stock air filters are hard on MAF sensors.
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I am running on a stock air filter, it was just changed, but didn't make any real difference.
I measured my MAF voltage today, in fact I measured it several times as the engine warmed up at idle.
Ignition on, engine off MAF = 1.008V
Engine on, fully warm MAF = 1.400V, RPM = 793, MAF 4.2g/s (15Kg/Hr)
The short term fuel trims on both banks were around -4%, slightly more negative on Bank 1.
I took readings as it warmed up, once the fast idle had stopped, as follows:
MAF=1.490V, RPM=857, MAF=5.2g/s
MAF=1.475V, RPM=836, MAF=5.1g/s
MAF=1.450V, RPM=806, MAF=5.0g/s
These are lower air flow than I saw a couple of days ago (6.5g/s at idle), not sure how much it changes with temperature, but it is a lot colder here today.
I appear to be just in spec (1.2 - 1.5V at idle) and 13 - 15Kg/Hr, but at the high end and given that my fuel trim still shows the engine as running rich should I still suspect the MAF?
Unfortunately my 5 point security Torx didn't turn up today, so I haven't had chance to remove the MAF for checking/cleaning, perhaps tomorrow it will be here.
I fully charged the battery yesterday between the two tests, with it sitting on the drive, opening and closing the hood and not driving the battery was a little low, not enough to cause any starting problems. Not sure if the battery charge level from 15% to 95% would make any difference?
Robin
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