Had an accident and looking for advice on what's broken

[Jasper7821]

Originally Posted by Stl-986

I wouldn't touch until until insurance is done with everything and either hand you a check or set you up with a repair shop.

Third party adjuster came today and spent an hour and taking all the data and will plug it all in and have an estimate in a few days.

I did just upload highlighted parts from the parts manual and prices from Porsche of what I can see so far.
https://1drv.ms/f/s!Atil9WC21-BZ3zcz-qUt01dIh_gB

[Jasper7821]

Is this the clip?

https://youtu.be/NZN2z9gzp6U


[QUOTE=Gilles;636038]

Originally Posted by Jasper7821

It would be awesome if that's all it is, I not seeing it. what the C clip rest against. If the slot for it is on the outer side of the splines on the flanged shaft I ca see how maybe the flanges shaft is just pushed into the transmission supported by (#13) radial shaft seal. I don't see what the C lip is used for if it sits on the outside of the splines.
If it sits on the inside of the splines, then wouldn't it rest up against the (#5) thrust washer of the (#11) differential pinion and if so, how would the clip stay closed until it made it past the pinion.
And if the clip did come off/break inside the transmission, how would I remove it.




The circlip works as a spring, once you get it on it's grove (on part #15) just push it into position and hit it with a brass hammer and will click into place..

[BRAN]

I feel you! Sorry to hear.
sideways against a curb...sounds like Nürburgring. The curb always wins.

[Quadcammer]

from what I'm seeing from the pics, this is not a big thing.

Subframe upright can be found for $100 on ebay. Axle is easy to find used, then just repack with grease and new boots.

Get a long track rod (caster arm) from TRW for like $1xx.

Just to be safe, get a new coffin arm (meyle) and toe link (trw i think)

Unless there is actual frame damage, I'd say you can fix this easily.

The stub axle to the tranny just needs a new c clip and be reinstalled.

[Jasper7821]

Thank you, I'm hoping this is the case. I had talked to a few shops that deal with Porsche's and they all said from my photos and description they said probably 10-15k to repair. But I think with new aftermarket parts with bushings and used parts that are just metal it can be done at home.
The front wheels also jumped up the curb but there doesn't seem to be any damage except for some plastics and the rims will need to be repaired. The rear rim/tire needs to be replaced.
I've been researching all the parts needed so far, and yes it doesn't look too bad.
I'm not a mechanic and don't know how comfortable doing this work by myself. Only thing I've really done is changed control arm bushings on an old BMW many years ago. I've been talking to some mobile mechanics that may be able to assist.

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

from what I'm seeing from the pics, this is not a big thing.

Subframe upright can be found for $100 on ebay. Axle is easy to find used, then just repack with grease and new boots.

Get a long track rod (caster arm) from TRW for like $1xx.

Just to be safe, get a new coffin arm (meyle) and toe link (trw i think)

Unless there is actual frame damage, I'd say you can fix this easily.

The stub axle to the tranny just needs a new c clip and be reinstalled.

[Jasper7821]

Ya, it totally sucks, especially since the car just had new brakes/rotors/sensors, track arms, sway bar links, all wheel bearings, and some other items already.

Originally Posted by BRAN

I feel you! Sorry to hear.
sideways against a curb...sounds like Nürburgring. The curb always wins.

[Gilles]

[QUOTE=Jasper7821;636065]Is this the clip?

https://youtu.be/NZN2z9gzp6U


No, that video is for the driveshaft assembly BTW, I would forget about the shaft as it should be perfectly fine..

The circlip I am talking about is #7) P/N 012 409 413 Circlip goes on the grove of #15) P/N 012 4009 343 Flange Shaft where the splines engage on to the differential hosing

On the post #10, in the picture you provided, the shaft has slipped out of the gearbox (after wacking the suspension) and you just have to reinsert the shaft fully into position and tap it so the circlip engages again into the #1) 012 409 121 Differential Housing.

However, you want to clean the surface of the shaft (where it rides on the oil seal) BTW, this is the perfect time to replace the oil seal #13 sorry but no P/N on your parts diagram for #13..

[Jasper7821]

Ok thanks, I had thought maybe that video was that shaft. I have the P/N of the seal from the other page and understand now and hopefully after a new clip and seal that nothing else is wrong gearbox wise and that’ll be it. I’m hoping rocks/pebbles/dirt didn’t go into that hole when the car went up the curb and slid through a few feet wide of decorative rocks .
[QUOTE=Gilles;636089]

Originally Posted by Jasper7821

Is this the clip?

https://youtu.be/NZN2z9gzp6U




No, that video is for the driveshaft assembly BTW, I would forget about the shaft as it should be perfectly fine..

The circlip I am talking about is #7) P/N 012 409 413 Circlip goes on the grove of #15) P/N 012 4009 343 Flange Shaft where the splines engage on to the differential hosing

On the post #10, in the picture you provided, the shaft has slipped out of the gearbox (after wacking the suspension) and you just have to reinsert the shaft fully into position and tap it so the circlip engages again into the #1) 012 409 121 Differential Housing.

However, you want to clean the surface of the shaft (where it rides on the oil seal) BTW, this is the perfect time to replace the oil seal #13 sorry but no P/N on your parts diagram for #13..

[Gilles]

[QUOTE=Jasper7821;636095]Ok thanks, I had thought maybe that video was that shaft. I have the P/N of the seal from the other page and understand now and hopefully after a new clip and seal that nothing else is wrong gearbox wise and that’ll be it. I’m hoping rocks/pebbles/dirt didn’t go into that hole when the car went up the curb and slid through a few feet wide of decorative rocks .
Jasper,

I have never used a new circlip, these act as a 'spring' and just pop into the grove.. but I would install a a new oil seal..

[Jasper7821]

Sounds good, thank you very much.

Jasper,

I have never used a new circlip, these act as a 'spring' and just pop into the grove.. but I would install a a new oil seal..[/QUOTE]

[Jasper7821]

Side section (suspension cross member sub frame question)
Has anyone had an accident and broke one of these. I'm curious if the frame gets damaged and after changing the subframe if all the mounting holes lined back up.
What broke on my car is the hub carrier, this sub frame, control arms, drive shaft boot. ( I think the driveshaft isn't bent but and angle the outer CV had when then rim folded a bearing popped out so going to replace the drive shaft.

Just curious if anyone has had an issue changing one of these subframes.
I was going to buy a used one and hoping it lines up. Also, I don't think anything from where the front transmission bolts onto the subframe bent. And the rear looks fine.
Thank You

[78F350]

I have replaced those on two cars. They weren't damaged as bad as yours, just minor cracks. From my observation, these are brittle and will break away in most cases before damaging the frame of the car. In your case, I would be sure to check the black brace that crosses between the engine and transmission and the diagonal braces on the bottom.
You may need the assistance of a ratchet strap to get everything aligned correctly for re-installation. This would be a great time to replace you engine and transmission mounts while you are in there.

Some posts that I remember:

Aluminum diagonal brace

Replacing the rear suspension bracket

[Stl-986]

I am still curious, how is it your car got bumped up to/on a curb?

[itsnotanova]

Guys who race the 97-98.5 boxsters break them all the time. Make sure you don't buy the early weaker design. You want a 98.5-2004 rear sub frame

[itsnotanova]

I recommend removing the metal cross brace to see if it got bent. I suspect your upright is bent and you can't tell by looking at it. You won't know until you go to get it aligned and your alignment guy can't get it within spec.

[Jasper7821]

Thank you very much for the two links, very helpful, and hopefully the subframe goes back in and all the holes line up. If not I'll use the ratchet strap. And the engine/tranni mounts were all changed last year.
I'll check the braces but not sure how to see if they're bent some, they're not flat.

Originally Posted by 78F350

I have replaced those on two cars. They weren't damaged as bad as yours, just minor cracks. From my observation, these are brittle and will break away in most cases before damaging the frame of the car. In your case, I would be sure to check the black brace that crosses between the engine and transmission and the diagonal braces on the bottom.
You may need the assistance of a ratchet strap to get everything aligned correctly for re-installation. This would be a great time to replace you engine and transmission mounts while you are in there.

Some posts that I remember:

Aluminum diagonal brace

Replacing the rear suspension bracket

[Jasper7821]

That's a discussion that needs to be done over drinks. One that you wouldn't believe.

Originally Posted by Stl-986

I am still curious, how is it your car got bumped up to/on a curb?

[Jasper7821]

Thank You, I just bought the subframe on Ebay, its' the same P/N as mine and came from a 2003. 986 331 151 08
I don't plan on wrecking it again so if it's a weaker design, I think it'll be ok

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

Guys who race the 97-98.5 boxsters break them all the time. Make sure you don't buy the early weaker design. You want a 98.5-2004 rear sub frame

[Jasper7821]

Thank You
If you're talking about what's called (strut in the parts catalog) the diagonal brace on the bottom what the sub frame mounts to, then yes that looks bent. Although both sides look kinda the same and have a very shallow S shape.
But the side that went up the curb is gouged up and a new one is $200 and $100 for aftermarket, and $45 used, so I was planning on replacing it anyways.
And when you say upright, which part is that. I want to make sure I look at absolutely everything.

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

I recommend removing the metal cross brace to see if it got bent. I suspect your upright is bent and you can't tell by looking at it. You won't know until you go to get it aligned and your alignment guy can't get it within spec.

[ike84]

Jasper,

The diagonal braces are not straight, they are supposed to be shaped a you described - mirror image gentle S shaped. A chunk of of one is no bueno and would warrant replacing. In addition, I would replace all the hardware that mounts it to the other components. I recently bring one of the 4 bolts before it even fit to factory torque spec, so if be amazed if you took a hot like that and didn't start some if them off.

The upright is the part that the hub carrier and tie links are mounted to. They are notoriously fragile in these otherwise stout suspensions and will often only come to attention (as Woody rightly pointed out) when the car won't get into spec alignment.

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