Smoking engine after coil and spark plug change
 

After putting the car up on jacks I changed the oil, brake fluid, transmission fluid and PS fluid. I did not start not the car for a week and a half while I waited for parts then changed the ignition coils, plug tubes and plugs. I started the car while still up on jacks and the top in service position and the engine made a weird screeching/whinning sound and smoke came out of the engine bay, smelled like gas. Got a check engine light. I pulled the plugs and they smell like gas. Don't think they fired. I put back the original coils and same issue. All of the ignition coil clips were secure so i don't think it's that connection. I don't have a scan tool and I don't want to run the engine for very long as it starts to smoke moments after starting. Anyone have any thoughts before I flatbed it to my mechanic?

Clearly you've a mouse problem. :chicken:

Seriously, though... what year is your car? When was last the car serviced? Any engine mods? When as the AOS last replaced? Details and data, man.

Thanks for the response. It's a 2002 Boxster S with 82K miles. Last serviced about 4 years ago when AOS was replaced along with plugs, brake fluid. Only about 9k miles have been driven since. Car was running fine before this event. Definitely not the AOS as a boatload of blue smoke would come out. This is a black, light smoke with a gas smell. Ordered all parts from Pelican Parts after speaking with them to ensure I was getting the right plugs and coils.I'm going too try replacing the original plugs and tubes to see what happens. I was thinking about this process and the only boneheaded thing I did that I can think of is when I went to put in a new plug the old plug was still installed and the new plug came in contact with it and maybe changed the gap. I hope that's all it is. I know I need to invest in a good scan tool and I was looking for one when this happened. I read the durametric is the best choice but I would go with any good inexpensive option. Right now, I have bigger fish to fry. Any guidance is greatly appreciated.

I think you have a few issues going on.
First a good OBDII scanner for a reasonable price is a Foxwell.
I have a 520 Pro. I think that model has been upgraded to the 530 Pro.
It does everything the Durametric does for around $175.00 and you can load multiple manufactures programs on it.

Second:
I am guessing with this so take that into account.
If you changed the plugs and now your smelling raw gas and some plugs seem like they are not firing. My guess is that you have crossed up your plug wires.
Make sure you have the coils on the correct plugs or Cylinders.;)

Third:
The weird screeching noise!!! Could be that the Power steering pump has not picked up the fluid yet so the pump is dry and whining.
Again Just guessing here!!
Keep us posted let us know the outcome.

Agreed..........

No, it does not.

Thanks to all the input. The coil connectors are pretty short and only reach the cylinders they service so crossing a connector would be difficult. Unless one of the connecting plugs got messed up but again, unlikely. I'll check out that Foxwell scanner. If it can be used on Honda and Acura as well it would be great. I drained the PS fluid by the pressure line under the drivers side, filled the reservoir, turned the wheels a few times, topped off, turned wheels again, and checked level which was at the lower end of the dipstick when cold.

Are all the coil packs wires connected all the way to the coils - those are very easy to leave loose when the plug does not give spark and if even one is not attached well, the engine runs rough and exhaust smells like raw gas... don't ask how I know:D

The Foxwell 530 may be a good fit. Looks like I could use it with other brands. The Foxwell chat doesn't respond so does anyone know if a model is specific to Cayman/Boxster or does it do all Porsches models?

Yes, they appear to be. That sounds like my current experience. I listened for a "click" when I connected them then pushed out to see if they would slip off and they stayed put. I'm still thinking it's something related to the coils.

JFP in PA... what is the shortfall vs Durametric?

JFP in PA... what is the shortfall vs Durametric?

It cannot activate or test several items like curse control, on board computer, etc,; it will not clear the oil change reminder on several new models, it cannot test several modules routinely tested during diagnostics, it cannot test activate several common items like the SAI, cooling fans, and VarioCam systems on several models, it cannot evaluate Tiptronic transmissions, etc. I could go on, but there is a huge difference between the two diagnostic systems.

Good info. Thanks.

That's interesting.
I have both the Durametric Pro and the Foxwell 520.
the only differences I have noticed when used on my 2000S is the Foxwell cannot activate the Cruise control or the onboard computer .
My 2000s is very basic didn't even have the cruise control option. Thus the reason I have the Durametric Pro model.
Seems the more options the car has and the newer the model the more the Durametric stands out but at a price premium.
I also like the Foxwell because I am not limited to just one manufacture.

The Durametric is Windows based only?

I believe so!

Thanks to all for taking time to provide feedback. Really appreciate the info.

I'll review the connections and replace the original plugs that were working fine before being replaced. Need to make a decision on a scanner. I like the price point and flexibility of the foxwell, but would like the added functions of the Durametric.. Only obstacle is my windows PC is old and needs an extension cord for power. Been using Macs for about 5 years now and have gotten used to them.

I always gap my plugs before install, even brand new out of the box. I doubt wall contact will deflect them, but who knows if they got dropped in the floor by some bonehead at the factory and then put in the box. Just a thing taught to me by an old wrench turner.

I haven't heard of dry starts being an issue with these cars after oil changes, but it is a dreadful thing to happen. You will typically have a clean start followed by horrendous high pitched whining/grinding which will sometimes cause it to stall (ask me how I know this lol).

Even if you had a dry start though I doubt that's why you're smelling gas out the tailpipe. I would start with the coils - double check wiring connections (both ends). If all your plugs are gapped properly, I would replace the old coils and see how it goes.




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smelling raw gas on the tailpipe
 

A few years ago after lowering the front of the engine to replace the water pump I was not able to start the engine and got a very strong raw fuel smell..

The cause ended being the engine harness connector, right behind the firewall (987CS) as it became partially disconnected, Brad Roberts kindly suggested to check it and the engine started immediately afterwards :)

Good luck!

Is that the same as the VarioCam Harness connector?

I really need the option for the curse control... it can get out of hand. :D

I am sorry John honestly don't know, but the harness had a good size connector (that was not 100% plugged) almost on the middle of the car about at the crank pulley height, towards the driver side, it was sitting right against the firewall..

The car was an '07 987CS

Thanks. It sounds like a possibility as maybe in jacking up the car it may have twisted loose. I'm going to check that tomorrow.

When I did change new spark plugs for me the first time to this car about 1.5 -years ago to recommended four lead but otherwise 'conventional' material Bosch FGR6KQE 7413 plugs, the symptoms were very similar to yours. The engine was not happy with those, power was down and also the smell at the exhaust was very raw - not well burned gas.

The previous owned had installed NGK BKR6EQUP platinum tip four lead spark plugs. I then purchased same few day later and swapped the new NGK ones in and VOILA, the car run again very nice with bunch of power with no gas smell any more on the exhaust.
Could it be the you had a plug type issue there - were the plugs same you installed as what came out?

Thanks to all for the valuable input. After letting the car sit for a couple of days while I cried for help on this forum, I went back and checked the PS fluid level and the dipstick was bone dry although it had registered ok previously. After adding an ounce or so at a time, at the 7th or 8th round, the dipstick showed fluid. Started it up and the engine ran fine and the squealing gone. Blue62 was right about the PS fluid. Must've been air in the system that worked it's way out while it sat. With the car now running I was able to look underneath and saw the dark smoke was a result of some engine cleaner I had sprayed on that hadn't rinsed off the exhaust pipes. Boy did I feel dumb.

Still up in the air about which scanner to get.
It looks like the Durametric can be rented for $50 for a 10 day period so I may try that before buying. Thanks again to all!

Glad to hear you got it sorted.:D
The hardest part about diagnosing a car problem via the net is that other people can't see it, hear it, feel it, smell it, taste it, talk to it, or have the car talk to them.
A simple thing like not knowing you had sprayed engine cleaner on it during your work can limit diagnosis.
It could have been a key point in helping diagnose the issue.
When you don't have access to the car it is guessing at best:D

I knew I sprayed the stuff on and just forgot over all the commotion. There was a lot of built up grease and crap on the engine and tranny and thought it would be best to clean it off. I feel like a dumb ass admitting it but I thought I owed it to everyone here who helped. I thought I had added enough fluid the first time but I guess draining from the PS lines introduces some air. I'll remember that next time and hopefully it'll save someone some anguish.