Has My IMS bearing been done?

[kbod]

This thread is no longer active/relevant,

[rexcramer]

Usually, if the IMS has been replaced, it is one of the top selling points. If it is an L&N bearing, there will be a reg sticker somewhere on the car. Zero documentation = assume not. At 116k miles on the car, it is reasonable to think the clutch assembly has probably been replaced. You can X/O the bearing with the engine in the car. You will need to pull the trans for access.

Have you changed the oil and inspected the filter? Consider pulling the pan.

Lots of IMS info/videos on the interwebs. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing/14-ENGINE-Intermediate_Shaft_Bearing.htm

[kbod]

- Deleted post

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by kbod

Yeah.. the seller didnt know the car well, I bought it with lots of known issues.. it needed body work, It had a series of blown cooling hoses, shot engine mount, etc. I dont know what you were referring to with the clutch assembly, the car is an automatic. looks like the torque converter is new tho. I did an oil change when i first purchased the car. Oil is pristine and filter has no particles whatsoever in it.. has pelican done any guides or any instructional videos on dropping the trans and doing this job?

there is lots out there on dropping the trans, a couple of extra things on the TIP but ive done it a couple of times in my garage without any special tools.
Best thing to have is a transmission jack/dolly as it makes refitting the transmission much easier. Having done it once without and several times since with; it's sensless not to use a transmission dolly. Something like the Harbor Frieght Low Lift Transmission Jack.
your 01 MIGHT have the factory double-row that has a very low failure rate. Upon inspection you can confirm, then its decision time. The pelican retrofit is a single-row that I wouldnt trust over the older stock double-row.
No particles in your oil is encouraging as the chain guides and actuators start to deeteriote on cars this old. this shows up as little pieces of plastic and isnt scary like the IMS, but points to eventual maintenance that requires pulling the engine. Good news is pulling the engine is all that bad either. Race car. :+)

[rexcramer]

Thanks for the correction. I thought I was the only person with a Tip Boxster.

The link I attached has this link embedded regarding the trans removal. There are plenty of videos on YT.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/37-TRANS-Drop/37-TRANS-Drop.htm

Originally Posted by kbod

Yeah.. the seller didnt know the car well, I bought it with lots of known issues.. it needed body work, It had a series of blown cooling hoses, shot engine mount, etc. I dont know what you were referring to with the clutch assembly, the car is an automatic. looks like the torque converter is new tho. I did an oil change when i first purchased the car. Oil is pristine and filter has no particles whatsoever in it.. has pelican done any guides or any instructional videos on dropping the trans and doing this job?

[JayG]

If it were me, I wouldn't worry about the IMS

1 It really is a very small % that have had failures
2 While it can go at any time, from what I understand (YMMV) higher mileage cars have an even lower incidence of failure
3 Cars with Tips have a lower incidence of failure

There is lots of FUD about the IMS. Some people replace them for piece of mind and most owners don't replace them. Its really up to you. One train of thought is that if you are dropping the trans for any reason, its one of those "While you are in there" things to do as the labor to R&R a trans is high (IIRC 8-10 hours), so the additional cost is parts and a little labor.

I tracked my boxster and has the original IMS with 100K on the clock and my 996 has 105k and original IMS. I don't lose sleep thinking about it

YMMV!

[Subman]

FWIW I did the IMSB on my '02 Boxster S while we were in there to do the clutch at 115K. The original IMSB was in virtually perfect condition. As always, YMMV, but there's plenty of these cars over 100K on the original bearings.

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by JayG

3 Cars with Tips have a lower incidence of failure

That is not true; Tips fail at the same rates (% wise) as manual transmissions, but as there are way fewer Tip cars, it only seems like it is a lower failure rate.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by JFP in PA

That is not true; Tips fail at the same rates (% wise) as manual transmissions, but as there are way fewer Tip cars, it only seems like it is a lower failure rate.

I stand corrected

[kbod]

deleted post

[78F350]

The VIN will not tell you which bearing was originally installed. (I learned that from JFP and Jake's many posts on the subject)

You can look up the VIN on LN Engineering's web site to see if an upgraded bearing has been registered. https://imsretrofit.com/ims-check/ Yours has not:



That doesn't mean it isn't done. Just that it was not registered.

To verify what you have, you will have to take the drive plate off and look at the IMS Flange. Do a little bit of searching for the specifics of each type flange. The truth is out there...

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by kbod

How Do I know if I have the double row bearing? Vin : WP0CA29811U625953 All that is currently wrong with the car is the drivers door latch (no biggie) where the window wont drop when i crack the door, The convertible gearbox is shot and the big one is the passenger side variocam system is lagging triggering a code, also the engine mount is clunky. Sooo with the engine in the car i will remove the shot engine mount and try to get a little more room to get that cam cover and cams out and hopefully I can get this boxster on the road and drive it. Ive had it for 6 months now and i want to get it smogged and registered so i can drive it.

I have a DIL living in MV. Where in OC are you? I might be able to arrange for my wife to visit her daughter and I could go to your place if you need any help (to the best of my ability). Let me know.

[kbod]

Originally Posted by 78F350

The VIN will not tell you which bearing was originally installed. (I learned that from JFP and Jake's many posts on the subject)

You can look up the VIN on LN Engineering's web site to see if an upgraded bearing has been registered. https://imsretrofit.com/ims-check/ Yours has not:



That doesn't mean it isn't done. Just that it was not registered.

To verify what you have, you will have to take the drive plate off and look at the IMS Flange. Do a little bit of searching for the specifics of each type flange. The truth is out there...

Ok, Ill look into removing the drive plate when I do the variocam actuator swap and ill try to see if I have the double row (fingers crossed). Is there any good source on how to differentiate the difference when you look?

[kbod]

Originally Posted by Starter986

I have a DIL living in MV. Where in OC are you? I might be able to arrange for my wife to visit her daughter and I could go to your place if you need any help (to the best of my ability). Let me know.

Laguna Niguel, Not too far haha But im pretty confident that I can get it done... cant be that much worse than bmws right?

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by kbod

Is there any good source on how to differentiate the difference when you look?

It`s on the picture, inspect the flange, if it`s deepened like the one depicted by the green arrow, it`s single row, if not, as the one marked by yellow arrow, you have a dual row bearing. You can also inspect the bearing itself if you want, after locking the cams and crankshaft and pull the flange, then press the small shaft inside the IMS. You can pull it back on using a telescopic magnet tool.

[darmahman]

Sticker for LN IMS Solution:

[piper6909]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

It`s on the picture, inspect the flange, if it`s deepened like the one depicted by the green arrow, it`s single row, if not, as the one marked by yellow arrow, you have a dual row bearing. You can also inspect the bearing itself if you want, after locking the cams and crankshaft and pull the flange, then press the small shaft inside the IMS. You can pull it back on using a telescopic magnet tool.

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