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So if someone buys a used Box that came with the LN plug, then changes the oil and torques, as you said, to spec in the owner's manual, they will most likely damage the plug. Likewise, if they took it to an indy or quick oil change place that may not necessarily know that LN specs a different torque. Even if they use a torque wrench, they probably would torque it to the spec that their computer tells them, which is derived from the manufacturer's specs, not aftermarket products. So instead of just blaming the user, you would think LN would have just developed a plug that used similar torque specs as the OE plug. |
Oh, I see, it is always LN’s fault that people do not read or pay attention ................
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I was just offering scenarios where the operator/installer, who may be well-intentioned, gets bad torque specs from the Porsche manual because unbeknownst to them, the aftermarket plug uses a much lower spec. And to eliminate that possibility, LN could probably have made a plug with similar torque specs. And I'm also offering a counter-narrative to your prior assertion that it's always "operator failure". So maybe the real answer is somewhere in between and the fault is shared by both LN and the operator. Happy? ;) EDIT: Here is an example of a magnetic oil plug with similar torque specs to OE. So it can be done: https://www.fvd.net/us-en/FVD10717601/magnetic-drain-plug-996-997-986-987.html |
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I have had 3 of these plugs so I know how to use them and what torque is required. I will keep an eye on it! |
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If you are going to use aftermarket parts, the operator needs to understand how they are different and act accordingly. |
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Do most mechanics recognize LN drain plugs and know to back off on the torque applied? And…do you use a torque wrench when you do them? And…if not, are you gonna start? :D:D:D |
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In my shop, if you are not using an appropriate torque wrench, you won’t be working here very long. Every fastener and drain plug is torqued to specs, period. |
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On the drain plugs...do you have a different set of torque values depending on new crush washer vs old crush washer? :D:D:D:D:D:D NO NEED TO RESPOND ON THAT ONE! |
For those who are interested in purchasing one, LN is selling the latest revision which has the torque spec and their logo laser etch(not grooved) into their magnetic oil drain plug. It should help solve the problem for you; until the etching eventually wears off :). The same one NJbray used.
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Just installed my LN magnetic plug today. It had the torque specs marked right in the plug in NMs
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Also, one can't expect every tech or DIYer to identify every aftermarket bolt and know its torque spec. Not in the real world. Specialists, maybe. |
And now the really important question..........
What oil are you using? |
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I know you're playing devil's advocate here, good job, but in the real world it's 19 ft-lbs to torque the magnetic plugs from LN :cheers:. I have never used my magnetic drain plug and the OEM one I use requires 37 ft-lbs still. I've been fortunate to use Frodo's free new crush washers I offered for all my oil changes. I made sure that guy who guarantees the warranty to the work torques down correctly and knows the bolt/screw to use because I hate to go back into a job after I patted myself well done :D . |
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You and me both... :cheers: All this for a magnetic drain plug on an aluminum engine block. Most people on here when they get all concerned about metal shavings in their filters the metal shavings are bronze/brass in nature (guide failure??? IDK I've never been inside a flat 6 engine). I mean you pull your drain plug out and its covered with iron shavings; you've already had problems. Like doing 5 laps WOT and then seeing your oil pressure is 0. |
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Working on one's own vehicle, even doing something that is not technically "standard of care" (though has proven time and time again to work just fine in practice), is a completely distinct process from working on someone else's machine, for compensation. |
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When you're being compensated for something, the standard must be higher. Much higher. (But send those same techs home to their own garage and see how that standard applies. Especially if you've got any racers among them. I guarantee the standard is VERY different) Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk |
Used cars
The point about buying a used Boxster which already had the LN plug installed and the new owner not knowing about it is a very valid argument for “RTFM” not applying for the OP.
It’s a great point. As posted above, LN upgraded their part and it is now labeled. As with most automotive aftermarket parts, once you start modifying a vehicle, you open a Pandora’s Box of trouble points. These machines require due diligence and research. That’s why this forum has been a huge help for me. This forum has saved me all kinds of headaches. Cheers. |
Just had my oil changed by my trusted "indi" shop and for the first time in 22 yrs it's leaking. They did replace the drain plug with a new drain plug (Porsche part, NOT the magnetic type) because after 22 yrs the original hex wrench opening was getting a bit rounded off. I also saw that they had a new aluminum crush washer with it.
But it's leaking only a bit....not a ton, but even a little oil on the rubber garage mat can look like a lot. So, they want me to bring it back and they'll lift it up and look. I'm not an expert but I'm wondering if I should expect them to: 1. Pull the plug (collect the fresh oil for re-use) use a new crush washer and tighten to spec. or..... 2. Just tighten the drain plug to torque specs (assuming it wasn't tighten properly in the first place) and see if it still leaks. 3. Start ALL OVER with new oil, new crush washer, tighten to spec. Suggestions??......thx in advance. |
No suggestion on best path forward....
.....but typically, oil leaks never get smaller.
It will act as a great indicator, however, if there are no more drops, there is no more oil in her. 😀 Good luck. |
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BUT... Having paid someone to do it, and since you had an indie vs a quick-lube joint do it I'm sure it wasn't cheap, I'd expect #3. |
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I don't know...should we all, collectively, be "disgusted"? :D:D:D |
I'm hoping they offer to start all over but it's more likely they will first try just tightening the drain plug and tell me to come back if it continues to leak.
I can almost guarantee they DID NOT use a torque wrench to tighten the plug to the 35 ft/lb spec. Since I don't wrench myself I wonder how many ft/lbs someone with just a wrench and arm strength would typically tighten the drain plug..... my guess is without a accurate torque wrench they might not tighten the plug enough to "crush" the washer enough to make a good seal.....or conversly they made it too tight and damaged the crush washer..........no idea. I suppose tomorrow at the shop will tell......... |
Well, assuming you're right and they did not use a torque wrench initially, and assuming they bother to look up the proper torque called for, it would only make sense that they'd start out by properly torquing it. What's to lose with that approach?
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Thanks Frodo.....I think tightening to specs is a good starting point. Like you said what's there to lose. I did get a few extra aluminum Porsche drain crush washers just in case they pull the plug.
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This conversation makes me miss my Guardian Plug in the oil pan. Wish I had another.....
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Can anyone confirm the stock (not the magnetic) torque spec. for the Boxster (98) oil drain plug.....I' read on one thread that it's 35 ft. lbs.
Seems a bit high, but then again not sure, so i thought others would know.....or send me to the proper reference source. Thx |
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If I ran the shop I'd apologize to the customer, pull the drain plug, replace the crush washer and refill with new oil. And make damn sure it never happened again. And if I were the customer, anything less than that I'd find another indie for all my future service. I can forgive mistakes, we all make them. It's how one remedies the mistake that separates the good shops from the rest. |
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I’m guessing that my “indi” WILL START OVER. He’s always treated me excellently. I’ve been his customer for over 25 yrs and have brought him numerous cars over the years as well as recommending him to many of my friends and family.
I’ll report back but my guess is he’ll start over knowing I’m one of his good customers. |
So......
today back at the shop I watched from under the car and it appeared that it needed another 1/4 turn (using a torque wrench set to 37 ft. lbs)......parked it back in my garage, placed brown construction paper under it and I'll check it again later. Hopefully that's all it needed....probably lost a 1/4 cup of oil at the most. Oil on the paper spreads so it always looks more than it really is. |
Let us know, I'd be curious.
I know what Piper (and you) were sayin' about "starting over," draining, inserting plug with new crush washer and oil, but I suspect what he did will take care of the problem. (It did for me last time I changed the oil, though I wasn't using a torque wrench either time.) The environmental (and frugal) part of me quietly objected to wasting 9 qts of expensive oil if it was not necessary—that notwithstanding the fact that I realize driving a Boxster isn't the most environmentally friendly thing I could do. (I have an 'out'...my wife drives a Prius and, unlike me, loves it. So we more or less offset each other ;) ) |
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But yeah no reason to drop all your oil. Just put a rubber plug (or just your finger) in there while you figure out what went wrong. Its not like you're holding anything but a few centimeters of head pressure. |
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