Passenger window does not lower the small amount when pulling door handle
 

Just bought the car and fixing little things the owner told me about.
Womdoering what it could be why the window doesn’t lower the tiny bit to clear the upper channel when purring the handle. Everyhugnelse about it works fine.
When it’s open I push on the top of the window to get it back seated in the track.
Any ideas or suggestions, the motor lowers the window regulator when pulling the handle, the window just doesn’t follow, but rolls down fine after that.

I am looking to buy a Boxster, and have a similar issue. The window will not roll down with the interior button, but will roll down with turning the key on the exterior. I wonder if this is an easy fix?

PS- From what I read an easy fix for some was a simple reset. Just hold the window button down for 6 seconds and it will reset the windows. Hopefully that works for you!

I think mine is a different issue, the window works just fine with the switch. (I didn't know the key in the door lock makes it go down)
I think my issue is the window is lifting out of the track just a little when pulling the door handle.

Search is your friends. The regulators are cable operated and prone to stretching. YouTube has some videos. Our forum host has a great DIY section on their website. Here is the link to the window section; https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/77-BODY-Window_Regulator/77-BODY-Window_Regulator.htm

There is a temp bike cable adjuster fix (I tried it) that is not worth the time IMO. I tried the URO regulators. They failed in less than a year. I finally bought and installed the OEM regulators. Medium DIY project that requires some fiddling adjustments to get perfect, but doable.

There are a bunch of micro switches that come into play also. Any of which can cause function issues.

I had this problem. My window would not drop when I opened the door. The majority of searches on this site vehemently advocated replacing the regulator as the wires have a tendency to stretch in time. I replaced my regulator three times before I gave up and solved the problem by replacing the motor. Maybe most of the time it is the regulator but not in my case. FWIW.

window regulators are common maintenance projects for these cars. After the years, slack in the cables is taken up during normal operation that doesn't result in window lowering. I have replaced all but one of the regulators on my cars through the years and it solved my issues. There are some other issues with the microswitches in the handles that cause intermittent problems also, but these are harder to troubleshoot. A quick search should take you to a number of posts to help you on this.

I am very happy with the URO regulators with ball bearings and haven't experienced any problems with them. Pro trick is to place the rubber on the windows before you try to place it on the holders, it works better.

Arrgh, between writing and posting - what rex said.

Just adding in to what the others have said; The problem is most likely the regulator and there are a variety of fixes.
My most recent fix was on a '97. I was going to do the 'bicycle cable' repair, but noticed that there was an adjustment built in to the particular regulator I had. A few turns on the adjuster and it was fixed.
On an '01 I replaced the regulator and the problem was still there. I checked the motor and it had a lot of play (wear) when reversing directions. Replaced it and it has been good since.
The tech article that Rex linked is a great step-by-step as are most of the Pelican Parts DIY articles.

Thank you for the replies, I really appreciate it. I'll search the links and see what I can find.
I wouldn't think it would be a microswitch as when I pull the door handle I can hear the motor and see the window try to move down. And with the window switch I can toggle it back and forth and the window follows as it should going up or down.
Looking at the prior owners service records, one says driver door not dropping when opening door. They replaced the window regulator and fixed it. It was a $1,000 repair.
Hopefully I can fit it for much less.

Also, does it really need to be fixed now. Do they get worse and not work at all. I have no issues with using it how it is now. If I open the door slowly, it still goes down far enough to not get hung up on the roof. If it stays that way I'm totally fine with that and can spend money on other repairs.

And I read the article and doesn't look too hard to do.

It's easy, but takes some patience. Use trim removal tools (must have) to remove the door card and take your time pulling off the membrane. Its stuck on there really well because the glue is old and tough. You dont want to rip it. Research how much it is to replace if you want to scare yourself. You might break a few trim holders also, be ready for that.

Once your there, it's just lowering the window, pulling the regulator and replacing it. A couple of nuts through the bottom of the door and a couple up top. Good time to clean the window really well and I find that attaching the rubber at the grip points, then dropping it into the regulator is the easiest way.
NOTE: Make sure the battery is disconnected BEFORE you disconnect the airbag and the airbag is reattached BEFORE you reattach battery for things like moving window during installation. If you dont do this, you will have the airbag light on until you clear codes, requiring durametric or similar tool or paying the dealer.

Thanks, Ya I read that and it's $70 to replace if I tore it up.
I think I'm going to leave it as is for now and work on some other repairs. I hope it stays the same and doesn't get worse until I get the regulator.

You may want to look at the door latch assy as a potential fault as well. 90% of the "window won't go down 1/4" when I pull the handle..." issues are caused by faulty door latch switches. You can get a used one for around $35-40 and not to difficult to swap out.

Lots of ways to verify if the latch assy is bad, the window won't drop, door won't lock with the fob, Central Lock Mechanism error in Duro...

Thank you for the reply, the door latch seems to work just fine. It locks/unlocks fine with the remote. Also I can hear the motor move when I pull the door handle, the window just doesn’t lower that 1/4” or whatever it is.

My car had the same issue, and it did turn out to be the latch assy. I tried the regulator first, which didn't fix it. Since my car has the optional security system, the latch was more expensive than the standard latch assy. It ended up being an expensive repair. :(

Is there a test to test somehow to see for sure which one it is?

you answered your own question...:+)

Had the same problem on my 2001 Boxster and I did the bicycle cable adjuster fix, and it works perfectly and has been for 12 months now. Buy yourself a $5 bicycle cable adjuster and spend half an hour fitting it, and your problem is fixed.

Thank you, was going to try cable ties but looks like a cable adjuster may work better.
Is there a certain size I need to look for? I know I need a slotted one so it will go over the cable without taking it apart

I did the cable tie fix and it didn’t make a difference, the green plastic pieces were in perfect condition so I didn’t want to cut it off and put the cable adjuster on.
The window still goes down the same amount when pulling the handle as before and the door will open without binding but it would be nice to get it to drop the correct amount.
After I put the cable tie on, I now hear a little grinding when the the window is almost all the way up.
Just seeing if there’s another trick, or should I just cut the green plastic piece off and try the cable tie.
It was really easy to remove the door panel so if I have to try a few more times, it’s no big deal.
My friend has the same problem and he put a pen cap between the bracket and green piece and that fixed his.

I too tried the cable tie trick first and it did virtually nothing, the cable adjuster is the way to go, I can’t remember the size but all you need to do is measure the green plastic insert and match that. I think it was 5mm but can’t be sure, I just went to our local bike shop and paid a couple of bucks for the one I used.

Thank you for telling me about the bicycle cable adjuster.
This is the definitive thread for this fix: http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-general-discussions/25704-window-regulator-permanent-fix-stretched-cable.html