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Old 06-15-2020, 01:05 PM   #1
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You need to have your vario cam units tested .
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Old 06-15-2020, 04:27 PM   #2
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You need to have your vario cam units tested .
what came of your green rubber Gabe?
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Old 06-16-2020, 11:59 PM   #3
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Would the variocam units need testing on a proper system? I only have a cheap code reader BUT it does read live data BUT not sure where to look and how to test or check
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Old 06-17-2020, 08:55 AM   #4
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Would the variocam units need testing on a proper system? I only have a cheap code reader BUT it does read live data BUT not sure where to look and how to test or check
I have a 5 chain-engine, with a different cam-actuating system. On that one, a simple thing you can test is the coil for continuity with an Ohm-meter. I`m just rebuilding the heads and got a used actuator from eBay, so you may find a good one there too. I don`t know about the 2.7 actuator, but the 2.5 has no such part that could produce the debris you found in the filter, at least not in such amount. It`s hard to tell though based on the picture. Maybe once you remove the faulty unit from your car and inspect it, you`ll be able to tell what to look for on a used one before you buy it.
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Old 06-18-2020, 01:12 AM   #5
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I have a 5 chain-engine, with a different cam-actuating system. On that one, a simple thing you can test is the coil for continuity with an Ohm-meter. I`m just rebuilding the heads and got a used actuator from eBay, so you may find a good one there too. I don`t know about the 2.7 actuator, but the 2.5 has no such part that could produce the debris you found in the filter, at least not in such amount. It`s hard to tell though based on the picture. Maybe once you remove the faulty unit from your car and inspect it, you`ll be able to tell what to look for on a used one before you buy it.
Yes, mine is a 2.7 x5 chain 2000 car. Apparently the variocam actuator has these green seals hidden inside the body of it (so visually telling if one was as bad could be hard).
The weird thing is, before the oil change (and some of this was found in the filter) the car ran good and it starts and is not erratic and I dare say it will still run. From what I have read the variocam is operated by an electrical solenoid triggered by the DME or ECU and therefor will still cut in even though the seals are worn away and I am hopeful the particles have been collected (partly) in the filter? There are no warning lights and I wonder if it is OK to run the engine and see? I have been advise to flush the engine, check filter and if particles still there to have it taken out + opened up...My opinion is the bits are rubber, soft, pliable and won't damage much as they are tiny too (although I was told the intake screen of oil pump could get blocked?).
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Last edited by DaveBBOXSTER; 06-18-2020 at 01:51 AM.
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Old 06-18-2020, 12:28 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER View Post
Yes, mine is a 2.7 x5 chain 2000 car. Apparently the variocam actuator has these green seals hidden inside the body of it (so visually telling if one was as bad could be hard).
The weird thing is, before the oil change (and some of this was found in the filter) the car ran good and it starts and is not erratic and I dare say it will still run. From what I have read the variocam is operated by an electrical solenoid triggered by the DME or ECU and therefor will still cut in even though the seals are worn away and I am hopeful the particles have been collected (partly) in the filter? There are no warning lights and I wonder if it is OK to run the engine and see? I have been advise to flush the engine, check filter and if particles still there to have it taken out + opened up...My opinion is the bits are rubber, soft, pliable and won't damage much as they are tiny too (although I was told the intake screen of oil pump could get blocked?).
In mine (1999 5 chain) the variocam actuator that broke is a bit different:



They are both operated by oil pressure, the solenoid only opens and closes small oil channels inside the unit and the rest of the job is done by the oil moving the piston. So yours is most likely not operational, because the pressure can`t build up without the O-ring. Maybe you can`t feel the difference because the other bank is still functional, but if you hook up a durametric or similar you should be seeing incorrect cam deviation values at the rpm values when the unit should actuate.

Probably you will have to replace the chain guides at some point, that`s where the little brown chips are coming from, so you need to remove the valve cover anyway. I don`t know how long it takes for them to go completely, but in my car they came off and the parts made the timing jump somehow. If you don`t want to do that soon, it`s a good idea to drop the oil pan and clean the rest of the rubber debris off from the strainer.

Last edited by Homeoboxter; 06-24-2020 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 06-19-2020, 12:58 AM   #7
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Many thanks for that information and the photo - I will study what you said and possibly rethink my plans...Sounds like test of cam deviation is good idea. When yours broke did the engine lights come on?
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