158k high mileage oil recommendations ?
 

Im probably gunna get crushed for asking an oil question as I am sure it has been discussed 1000 times. I admit from the get go that I am being a bit lazy and just looking for a quick answer.
New to me 2001 Box base with 158k on it. I know all of you guys are using Mobile 1 and previous owner told me I would be due for an oil change soon so I just plan on knocking it out asap. What I forgot to ask the previous owner was what grade Mobile 1 he has been using.
Sooooo I will ask u guys........what grade Mobile 1 should I use for my car w 158k on it and where do u guys usually purchase the oil filter/crush washer from?

Thanks

ps....if I topped off my oil with example: 10/30 M1 and there was 10/40 M1 in the car would it mess anything up? It would be a very small quantity. The reason i want to keep my oil level on the full mark is my IMS bearing seal was removed....so I need that bad boy to get wet.

Factory oil weight is 0W40, but best to use your judgement given your climate and usage.

My Boxster is a spring/summer/fall vehicle only, and gets put away once the weather hits below double digits. I'm running 0W40 Lubro-Moly and will likely switch to Motul next season. You can get the filter and crush washer just about anywhere. Try Pelican Parts. :)

Don't assume everyone is using Mobil 1 , many have learned there are much better oils available . Not going to get in an oil debate so I'll stop there . Pelican Parts is the sponsor of this website , they are good people and offer a wide variety of parts for Porsche vehicles . They are a good vendor to support . But you can buy local also if you want to support your local auto parts stores . Enjoy your new purchase . :cheers:

I used M1 for my first oil change. I read some articles about the declining efficacy of the product (not meeting certain standards/new formulation) and discontinued using it. I now run a major brand European formula, ~$24/5 quarts. And, run the WIX/NAPA Gold filter.

I'd run a full synthetic that meets the standards, checking the condition of your oil each change (check that filter, too). Don't get so caught up in brand names instead making sure the oil meets efficacy standards. Change it regularly.

Cheers!

I've ditched 0w40 and have gone to 5w40 (Castrol, Liqui-Moly). Next change may go to 10w40 (which was one of the recommended synthetic weights in the manual in 2001).

😂

Castrol for me

Because of the climate here in Colorado, I use 0-40W M1.I have used Liquid Moly but can't tell the difference so I buy M1. I get oil filter--Hengst on Amazon

Thanks for all the replies and for not crushing me for the lack of a thorough search. 5 or 6 replies and everyone is doing something a little different.

I have no idea what is in the car right now......can I assume that the left over oil in the car will mix ok with the new full synthetic that I choose? This car will be a Spring summer and fall car only and garaged for the winter. I will put very few miles per year...maybe 3 to 5k tops. I am leaning towards M1 mostly because I believe its what the previous owner was runnin'

again.....thanks for the replies!!!

The residual oil left in the engine by a normal oil change will be fine mixing with the new oil. If you do top it off again later, you should use the same oil that you used in the oil change.

At 158k miles with no warranty concerns, Mixing brand "X" with brand "Y" to top it off should even be okay if you have to, but try to avoid mixing different oil grades beyond what was left behind when you changed the oil.

There's still a lot to be gained by reading some of the old "What is the best oil" threads. Informative and entertaining.

I have a few 986 Boxsters and have used Castrol Edge 10W-40, M1 0w-40 & 10W-40, and Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. Some companies change their additive formulation regularly without notice. Some companies all dip from the same general supplier's vat and put their label on it. I try not to stress myself over the choice.

...and if you love your car, really love it, flush the engine and use nothing but Joe Gibbs 'Driven' DT40. It actually is the best, but at 158k miles ...meh.
:cheers:

And one more thing. Assuming you still have the stock filter and not a spin-on adapter, buy a new "Oil Filter Cover Cap". The bypass valves wear out over time and miles. The Genuine Porsche brand comes with a filter for just $21.50 at Pelican:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/99610702055M100.htm?pn=996-107-020-55-M100&bt=Y&fs=0&SVSVSI=4391

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1562734617.jpg

Porsche oil viscosity has evolved.....
 

....PORSCHE now recommends 5w-50 for the 986.

See here:

https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/classic/genuineparts/producthighlights/motoroil/

That's a vid about Porsche-developed oils for 356s and air-cooled 911s.. :confused:

And....
 

.....if you scroll down, you will see the new 5w-50 986/996 Porsche Classic oil.

Just scroll down.

Ah...never forget to scroll, eh? :p

Here...
 

https://www.********************************************** ******.com/product/SKU5W50OIL.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvrCYoqSq4wIVFLbI Ch04eArAEAQYASABEgIXEPD_BwE


Well, that link isn’t working.

Just google Porsche Classic Motor Oil 5W-50.

Porsche changed their formula after seeing all the engine failures.

This just happened this year.

More very good info.......You guys have given me a lot of homework. I just got it through Virginia inspection....finally legal. Now two door switches a starter and an oil change and I can relax.

Thanks for the replies........

Since Porsche doesn't manufacture motor oil, what are the chances that this 5W50 'classic' oil is Mobil 1 5W50?

RELAX, RELAX - it's a 986 with 156k - There will not be any relaxing, it's just the beginning

Doesn't mean you can't enjoy the ride

As far a motor oil. Drain while there is still some gold tint to it (Not dirty black), check the filter for materials. You can even drop the sump cover to get a better idea what stuff has worn away.

That is some expensive oil. About $80 for 5L.

Well....
 

.....Oil is cheap.

Engines are expensive.

Here's a screen shot...
 

......http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1562796215.jpg

I don't think changing my oil with Porsche Branded for $160 will make my engine last any longer than M1 or Castrol. My next oil change I will use 5w-50 as recommended though.

Follow your heart...
 

...I actually use this:

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/dt40-5w-40-synthetic-street-performance-oil.html

I've been using Shell Rotella T6 for the last year. The engine used to have a quiet tick, but that went away with this oil and the engine just feels happier. ;)

Check out the project farm on U tube he does some simple test with motor oil's and a bunch of other everyday products with interesting results,..

Wow......all these replies and I dont think even two people are using the same product. The options are all over the map. Good knowledge gain here.....glad I went for the quickie post.....
Anyone else have over 150k on your 986?

The reason that I purchased such a high mileage 986 was the previous owner was a Porsche mechanic. Many of the common issues have already been repaired.....and fingers crossed I can keep up with future maintenance...

It’s really very simple.....
 

.....Don’t suffer analysis paralysis.

Just pick any good oil in 10-40 or 5-50 that you can easily source and fits your budget and CHANGE that oil every 3,000 miles.

Replace the water pump and Air/Oil Separator every four years.

Replace the brake fluid every two years.

Be prepared for ignition coil and cam chain tensioner replacement at some point down the road.

That’s it.

Use Shell gasoline and let her warm up properly before driving the snort outta her.

Don’t worry. Just enjoy the machine.

Welcome to the party, Pal!

It is very easy to over analyze anything but unfortunately " what is the right oil " is not a simple one part answer . Let's face it ANY oil will work and if you change it often enough you will probably get by . However to REALLY know what's going on with any oil is to have it lab analyzed . And you have to do multiple samples . Here is an example: after Jake built my engine and it was broken in he suggested I use Driven DT40 synthetic . I did and we started doing oil analysis . My seat of the pants reaction was hey this oil works great because I wasn't burning much and the motor sounded good . But after a few samples Jake didn't like certain properties he was seeing in the oil reports .

So he had me switch to Brad Penn 10w40 semi-synthetic and we have done a few more samples , he stated my oil analysis is perfect and has been over several samples . I believe in my case the DT40 was having some separation issues , certain properties of the oil were being affected by the fuel . It's all way over my head but Jake has done probably 10,000 oil samples on every oil out there so if he recommends BP for my engine that's what I'll use .

Keep in mind this is about MY engine in MY car after multiple oil samples . Your results may be totally different . If you like making decisions based on real evidence then do some oil sampling . If your not interested then go with what you like and drive it like you stole it . I see Particlewave is using Rotella , an excellent oil with high zinc/phosperous content due to it being a diesel oil . Nothing wrong with running it in gas engines . End of my story , sorry for the long reply . :cheers:

I will be honest with you guys......I have learned more about my new used car on this oil thread then I possibly imagined. I really appreciate the replies and added knowledge. Originally I was thinking that due to the high mileage that my car might benefit from a high mileage oil or viscosity.......u guys have given me plenty of options to chose from. This car is only driven for fun so not many miles per year.

Many thanks!!!!
Now where is that beer thing...........ahhhhh :cheers:

Not ANY oil! It has to be a synthetic oil and have the right viscosity. I choose to go by the recommended oils.

What did you end up going with?

I have 128K miles on my car, always used M1 0W-40, except one time I used either M1 5W-30 or 10W-30 and got horrible engine clatter at start up. By the end of the week I had drained the oil and put 0W-40 back in it. I'll not play with the oil viscosity again since the engine has done fine with M1 0W-40, so why mess with good results.

As for the oil filter, I use the K&N PS-7011 Pro-Series Oil Filter, usually off eBay or Amazon and bought a bunch of crush rings, I think it was 20 from Pelican when I was ordering some other stuff that got me free shipping.

What's wrong with extra virgin olive oil in your Porsche, folks? ;)

I bought my car very recently and it came with some old paperwork. I know in the past it has been on Mobile One so for that reason I am just going to stick with Mobile One. Some of the replies mention Porsche now recommends a diff viscosity.....so thats my last desision....0W 40.....or 5W 50 ....not sure if M1 makes 5/50 or not. So ya...I havent got around to changing the oil yet. Just did the cigarette lighter conversion today. Have to replace the starter next I believe.

Mobil 1 does have a 5W-50 oil for Porsche now, but it's hard to get here in the US and it's expensive.

https://www.mobil1racingstore.com/mobil-1-122075-oil

Oil specs. https://www.mobil1racingstore.com/Content/Images/uploaded/GLXXMobil-1-FS-X2-5W50.pdf

Driven 5W-40 DT40 oil Joe Gibbs Racing

https://www.drivenracingoil.com/dt40-5w-40-synthetic-street-performance-oil.html

MCMIKE.......U like that stuff? Sell me on it....I am a Redskins fan although not very proud of it......but the name Joe Gibbs still has some class

Forgive me for reviving an old thread, but I didn't want to start 'another oil thread.' :o

So it's time for an oil change and I'm having a hard time finding the recommended (According to the manual for my climate, both above and below 50 degrees F.) 10w-40 grade in Mobil-1.

I know that now Porsche recommends 5w-50, but I didn't see any charts based on climate, and I find it hard to believe it's good for all climates, especially not for below 50 degrees F.

From my research on here I've seen people using 0-40, 10-30, 5-50, and other grades, some of which aren't even listed in the manual. Why such a variety of preferences when the manual seems quite specific?

Nonetheless, since 10w-40 is harder to find, am I safe using 5w-40, which is more readily available?

Thanks in advance! :cheers:

You would be far better off using Gibbs DT40, 5W-40 full synthetic with high ZDDP levels.

Thanks, JFP. You've inspired me to do some research on ZDDP. :cheers:

Using Rotella T6 5w40 for at least 10 years on all cars with my family; SAAB turbo with 170K miles, BMW X5D35, VW Jetta EA211 and 97 Boxster. Just love this oil! It contains higher ZDDP than Mobil 1, got to be good for IMS bearing! Works great, reasonably priced, readily available, no complaints.