Winter Storage

[Perfectlap]

where can I get these dessicants? My car sits ouside for 2-5 days without during the winter. Anything I can do help out the leather and keep it smelling 'fresh' I'm all for.

Originally Posted by Perfectlap

where can I get these dessicants? My car sits ouside for 2-5 days without during the winter. Anything I can do help out the leather and keep it smelling 'fresh' I'm all for.

PL, this should help you:

Desiccators

PL, I bought 12 of the 8-ounce bags that were recommended in the link from Denverpete. I plan to put 6-8 in the car and a couple each in the trunks (front & back).

MNBoxster, can I microwave the desiccator bags in Denverpete's link in the Spring, and reuse them? Please look. I don't want to start a fire in my microwave!

[drburton]

The $200 deal is at Maplewood Imports. I will probably go for it. I'm holding out till mid-November though for some more nice days. Although after the last couple of days, I'm not hopeful.

[Ray]

I couldn't make it out of October ....

It snowed here in Grosse Pointe, MI today so I got caught in several snow squalls from home to work and back. I was actually thinking of driving my bike today ... thank God I didn't. Heater works great and the car was as sure footed as a snowshoe hare.

I'm looking for a winter ride so I'll be taking this advice very shortly. Many thanks for your storage info!

Ray

Jim, this is your advice for the spring:

"You can do this in one of two ways. First, if a Manual, put the car in Neutral and push it back a few feet. Then, place the gearshift in 5th gear and push the car forward, this will rotate the engine. If you run out of room, say in a garage, go to neutral again and repeat procedure so you're sure one complete revolution of the engine has occured. This will loosen any frozen engine parts (such as rings, chains, etc.), without the extreme torque of the starter motor. This torque is so great that it can tear rings or do other damage. If you have a TipS car, take a large socket on a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise to rotate the engine. "


I still don't get this! Can I do this on my own, or will I need to enlist the help of the Chicago Bear's front line to push my car?? Can I have the car in 5th or 6th gear and push the car backwards...down the driveway?? Or do I need to really go forwards?

OK, what if I store the car with the battery maintainer (I am not taking the battery out) and lock the car so the alarm is on. In the Spring, if I open the doors with the key (since the fob won't work with that much time past) how do I get the car pushed in gear to get one or two engine revolutions before the alarm turns on, because the car was not started soon enought with the key??

Thanks!

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by bmussatti

Jim, this is your advice for the spring:

"You can do this in one of two ways. First, if a Manual, put the car in Neutral and push it back a few feet. Then, place the gearshift in 5th gear and push the car forward, this will rotate the engine. If you run out of room, say in a garage, go to neutral again and repeat procedure so you're sure one complete revolution of the engine has occured. This will loosen any frozen engine parts (such as rings, chains, etc.), without the extreme torque of the starter motor. This torque is so great that it can tear rings or do other damage. If you have a TipS car, take a large socket on a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise to rotate the engine. "


I still don't get this! Can I do this on my own, or will I need to enlist the help of the Chicago Bear's front line to push my car?? Can I have the car in 5th or 6th gear and push the car backwards...down the driveway?? Or do I need to really go forwards?

OK, what if I store the car with the battery maintainer (I am not taking the battery out) and lock the car so the alarm is on. In the Spring, if I open the doors with the key (since the fob won't work with that much time past) how do I get the car pushed in gear to get one or two engine revolutions before the alarm turns on, because the car was not started soon enought with the key??

Thanks!

Hi,

You can push the car in 5th or 6th - this gives you the greatest mechanical advantage, to try it in 1st, you'd have to go all Ahhhhnold on it. Without a Timing Belt, you could push the car either way, but forward turns the engine in it's proper direction, not a big deal either way w/ no TB.

If you keep the alarm on all winter (which I don't recommend), you'll be drawing considerable power from the battery and make the Maintainer work alot harder (maybe more than it was intended for, the battery too for that matter. But, so far as the Key Fob is concerned, it's the Car's Alarm, not the Key which goes dormant. You don't need to start the car to reinitialize it, all you need to do is unlock the car with the key, that will wake up the car's Alarm to accept the Key Fob signal. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

PS It should read - First, if a Manual, put the car in Neutral and push it back a few feet. Then, place the gearshift in 5th gear and push the car forward, this will rotate the engine. If you run out of room, say in a garage, go to neutral again, push the car backward, and repeat procedure so you're sure one complete revolution of the engine has occured.

[Sammy]

Is there a easier way to get a coating of anti-corrosion stuff on the cylinder walls without doing the fogging oil method? The spark plugs are not the easiest things to get to (not impossible, just not easy) and this would be a major PITA!

I've always used fogging oil with my boats in the past, but it was much easier since the spark plugs were easily accessible.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Sammy

Is there a easier way to get a coating of anti-corrosion stuff on the cylinder walls without doing the fogging oil method? The spark plugs are not the easiest things to get to (not impossible, just not easy) and this would be a major PITA!

I've always used fogging oil with my boats in the past, but it was much easier since the spark plugs were easily accessible.

Hi,

Sorry, there isn't. I always put fresh plugs in at storage time, plugs are cheap and this way I get to inspect the Plug tubes for leaks, I spray the fog in then add the new plugs. Took me about 10-15 min. to do them 2 weeks ago (not counting raising the car which I had to do anyway), not that big a deal...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[TriGem2k]

While all of you guys put your cars away for the winter I just want to remind you guys that here in SoCal it was a BEAUTIFUL 87degrees today.

That must be nice. It was so damn hot here yesterday I had to put the top up with the A/C on. I was starting to get sunburned on my daily high-speed cruise.

I am so glad I am not still one of those saps who live up in Canada.

Originally Posted by TriGem2k

While all of you guys put your cars away for the winter I just want to remind you guys that here in SoCal it was a BEAUTIFUL 87degrees today.

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

Sorry, there isn't. I always put fresh plugs in at storage time, plugs are cheap and this way I get to inspect the Plug tubes for leaks, I spray the fog in then add the new plugs. Took me about 10-15 min. to do them 2 weeks ago (not counting raising the car which I had to do anyway), not that big a deal...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

You'd think I would've been smart enough to hold the changing of the spark plugs until last... Oh well... This winter the car won't be fogged (car stored inside of an attached garage with a cover)...

How in the heck did you get the plugs changed in 15 minutes? Do you have the hands of a 6 year old girl??? I went at it by working through the wheel well which might have been my downfall...

Also, I went to change the clutch fluid and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the bleeder valve with a wrench? On the same note, I didn't notice a second bleeder valve on my calipers but I have seen posts refer to a second set? Is there a second bleeder valve that I should've flushed at the same time?

Help???

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Sammy

You'd think I would've been smart enough to hold the changing of the spark plugs until last... Oh well... This winter the car won't be fogged (car stored inside of an attached garage with a cover)...

How in the heck did you get the plugs changed in 15 minutes? Do you have the hands of a 6 year old girl??? I went at it by working through the wheel well which might have been my downfall...

Also, I went to change the clutch fluid and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the bleeder valve with a wrench? On the same note, I didn't notice a second bleeder valve on my calipers but I have seen posts refer to a second set? Is there a second bleeder valve that I should've flushed at the same time?

Help???

Hi,

When I have the car raised, I work under it on a creeper and do them in pairs, one on each bank at the same time - 1-4, 5-2, 3-6. This way, I remove both coilpaks, then both plugs, shoot in the oil, insert new plugs and return coilpaks, then move to the next pair, etc. 15 min. start to finish.

The Slave Cylinder bleed is a little challenging. I have a Tip S, but bled the clutch on a friend's '03. I used a Stubby Box wrench (7mm? 8mm?), put it on, then the drain tube. Kept the wrench on the nipple through the process, closed it up, removed the drain tube and pulled the wrench off.

Yes, there are two bleed valves on the Calipers, one inboard, one outboard. Start with the inboard bleed valve first, then the outboard one. The proper sequence is - rht rear, - lft rear, - rht front, - lft front . Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

When I have the car raised, I work under it on a creeper and do them in pairs, one on each bank at the same time - 1-4, 5-2, 3-6. This way, I remove both coilpaks, then both plugs, shoot in the oil, insert new plugs and return coilpaks, then move to the next pair, etc. 15 min. start to finish.

The Slave Cylinder bleed is a little challenging. I have a Tip S, but bled the clutch on a friend's '03. I used a Stubby Box wrench (7mm? 8mm?), put it on, then the drain tube. Kept the wrench on the nipple through the process, closed it up, removed the drain tube and pulled the wrench off.

Yes, there are two bleed valves on the Calipers, one inboard, one outboard. Start with the inboard bleed valve first, then the outboard one. The proper sequence is - rht rear, - lft rear, - rht front, - lft front . Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

It helps... not the news I want to hear, but it does help... Thank you!

I'll have to raise the car to rebleed the brake system but this time taking into account the two bleed valves per caliper. I'll pick up a stubby and go at the clutch again... Since I'll have the car up I might as well do the fogging oil. Any advice on how to clean the brake fluid that will undoubtedly get on my pretty red calipers? I've always heard that brake fluid is really bad on paint, but is brake cleaner that much better?