Winter Storage

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

I don't want to bore you with all the whys and wherefores, but a Wet Acid Cell battery is a pretty poor device for storing a charge longterm. they're much better at storing the charge for a short term, then discharging (doing work), then being recharged either by the Alternator or some outside source.

Inside the battery, substances actually change into other substances and release electrons (electricity) in the bargain. Adding more energy from an outside source allows this process to reverse itself. The chemistry is such, that it's better to keep these changes (reactions) occuring repeatedly over the short term rather than allowing the substances to remain in their present state for long.

This is why a maintainer is good, it keeps the chemistry going inside the battery during the storage period and can extend the life of the battery by 2-3 years. Also, a battery in poor condition will work the Alternator harder once the car is running again. In addition to using more Gas because the Alternator is constantly charging the battery, you also will shorten the Alternator's life.

With Batteries running anywhere from $40-$100, investing in a $25 maintainer and using $2-$3 per season to maintain and extend the life of the battery is a pretty good trade. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

Yes, it helps tremendously! Thank you for the explanation and I'm planning a trip to the local auto store to pick one up!

I was kind of hoping for something referring to NickCats "power sucking vortex" but your explanation sounds just a tad more realistic.

Sammy

[z12358]

Jim,
You mentioned the "Car Cocoon" in your instructions, and something about it requiring only few $ electricity. What's the power used for (I have no power in my storage.) Can you point to which product exactly you are refering to?

Any opinions on this one:
http://www.classiccarcocoon.com/car.html ?
That VCI sounds a bit like mumbo-jumbo.

Thx,
Z.

Originally Posted by z12358

Jim,
You mentioned the "Car Cocoon" in your instructions, and something about it requiring only few $ electricity. What's the power used for (I have no power in my storage.) Can you point to which product exactly you are refering to?

Any opinions on this one:
http://www.classiccarcocoon.com/car.html ?
That VCI sounds a bit like mumbo-jumbo.

Thx,
Z.

I think the "Car- Cocoon" is an oversized electric blanket that you park your car in.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by bmussatti

I think the "Car- Cocoon" is an oversized electric blanket that you park your car in.

Hi,

Not exactly, they're inflatable storage units which use a low-power consumption fan to keep it inflated so the air is contantly moving. They prevent accumulation of Dust and offer some protection to impacts as well. They're really quite good. Cost about $5/season to operate.

I'd own one in a heartbeat, but since I store 4 cars annually, it'd be cost prohibitive to do them all, and it'd be impossible to pick who's gonna be the Lucky Girl, though it'd probably be my Esprit since it's the most rare.

I think the best one is called the Car Capsule. I've seen these in use and they're really quite good. Check them out at: http://www.carcapsule.com/

Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Sammy]

I gots me a Schumacher 1.5 amp battery maintainer at Ace Hardware last night for $28! Thanks for the advice!

[tomk17]

I've seen most of the winterizing posts but have not seen mention of possibly adding a small amount of Sta-Bil to the gasoline. I've always used this stuff in small engines to keep the gas from going bad which can happen in 30-45 days. Has anyone used this in a Boxster ? Pros / Cons welcome.

Originally Posted by tomk17

I've seen most of the winterizing posts but have not seen mention of possibly adding a small amount of Sta-Bil to the gasoline. I've always used this stuff in small engines to keep the gas from going bad which can happen in 30-45 days. Has anyone used this in a Boxster ? Pros / Cons welcome.

Tomk17, this is taken directly from MNBoxsters excellent write-up:

"8. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. You can also add a stabilizer if you wish, won't harm and may help (I do). Just be sure to run the car sufficiently that the stabilizer circulates through the entire fuel system."




Yes, I added Stailizer to my fuel tank about 2 weeks ago.

[MNBoxster]

Hi,

Adding Sta-Bil is a good idea. Gasoline is a very unstable subtance and it breaks down rather quickly. Used to be within 30 days, but today's better refined gas (especially from the Name Brands) will actually go 60 days before starting to breakdown. It is a parafinic compound and after this period, this is one of the things which causes issues - the buildup of varnish on the fuel components.

In the spring, I will also usually add an injector cleaner (especially for an FI car). I personally like Lubro-Moly's Jectron - http://www.********************************************/acatalog/Lubro_Moly_Jectron_Fuel_Injection_Cleaner.html

I use it at half the recommended strength just to clear out any varnish which may have built up, especially on the injector nozzles. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Sammy]

Is there a easier way to get a coating of anti-corrosion stuff on the cylinder walls without doing the fogging oil method? The spark plugs are not the easiest things to get to (not impossible, just not easy) and this would be a major PITA!

I've always used fogging oil with my boats in the past, but it was much easier since the spark plugs were easily accessible.

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Sammy

Is there a easier way to get a coating of anti-corrosion stuff on the cylinder walls without doing the fogging oil method? The spark plugs are not the easiest things to get to (not impossible, just not easy) and this would be a major PITA!

I've always used fogging oil with my boats in the past, but it was much easier since the spark plugs were easily accessible.

Hi,

Sorry, there isn't. I always put fresh plugs in at storage time, plugs are cheap and this way I get to inspect the Plug tubes for leaks, I spray the fog in then add the new plugs. Took me about 10-15 min. to do them 2 weeks ago (not counting raising the car which I had to do anyway), not that big a deal...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[TriGem2k]

While all of you guys put your cars away for the winter I just want to remind you guys that here in SoCal it was a BEAUTIFUL 87degrees today.

That must be nice. It was so damn hot here yesterday I had to put the top up with the A/C on. I was starting to get sunburned on my daily high-speed cruise.

I am so glad I am not still one of those saps who live up in Canada.

Originally Posted by TriGem2k

While all of you guys put your cars away for the winter I just want to remind you guys that here in SoCal it was a BEAUTIFUL 87degrees today.

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

Sorry, there isn't. I always put fresh plugs in at storage time, plugs are cheap and this way I get to inspect the Plug tubes for leaks, I spray the fog in then add the new plugs. Took me about 10-15 min. to do them 2 weeks ago (not counting raising the car which I had to do anyway), not that big a deal...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

You'd think I would've been smart enough to hold the changing of the spark plugs until last... Oh well... This winter the car won't be fogged (car stored inside of an attached garage with a cover)...

How in the heck did you get the plugs changed in 15 minutes? Do you have the hands of a 6 year old girl??? I went at it by working through the wheel well which might have been my downfall...

Also, I went to change the clutch fluid and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the bleeder valve with a wrench? On the same note, I didn't notice a second bleeder valve on my calipers but I have seen posts refer to a second set? Is there a second bleeder valve that I should've flushed at the same time?

Help???

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by Sammy

You'd think I would've been smart enough to hold the changing of the spark plugs until last... Oh well... This winter the car won't be fogged (car stored inside of an attached garage with a cover)...

How in the heck did you get the plugs changed in 15 minutes? Do you have the hands of a 6 year old girl??? I went at it by working through the wheel well which might have been my downfall...

Also, I went to change the clutch fluid and I can't for the life of me figure out how to get to the bleeder valve with a wrench? On the same note, I didn't notice a second bleeder valve on my calipers but I have seen posts refer to a second set? Is there a second bleeder valve that I should've flushed at the same time?

Help???

Hi,

When I have the car raised, I work under it on a creeper and do them in pairs, one on each bank at the same time - 1-4, 5-2, 3-6. This way, I remove both coilpaks, then both plugs, shoot in the oil, insert new plugs and return coilpaks, then move to the next pair, etc. 15 min. start to finish.

The Slave Cylinder bleed is a little challenging. I have a Tip S, but bled the clutch on a friend's '03. I used a Stubby Box wrench (7mm? 8mm?), put it on, then the drain tube. Kept the wrench on the nipple through the process, closed it up, removed the drain tube and pulled the wrench off.

Yes, there are two bleed valves on the Calipers, one inboard, one outboard. Start with the inboard bleed valve first, then the outboard one. The proper sequence is - rht rear, - lft rear, - rht front, - lft front . Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[Sammy]

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

When I have the car raised, I work under it on a creeper and do them in pairs, one on each bank at the same time - 1-4, 5-2, 3-6. This way, I remove both coilpaks, then both plugs, shoot in the oil, insert new plugs and return coilpaks, then move to the next pair, etc. 15 min. start to finish.

The Slave Cylinder bleed is a little challenging. I have a Tip S, but bled the clutch on a friend's '03. I used a Stubby Box wrench (7mm? 8mm?), put it on, then the drain tube. Kept the wrench on the nipple through the process, closed it up, removed the drain tube and pulled the wrench off.

Yes, there are two bleed valves on the Calipers, one inboard, one outboard. Start with the inboard bleed valve first, then the outboard one. The proper sequence is - rht rear, - lft rear, - rht front, - lft front . Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

It helps... not the news I want to hear, but it does help... Thank you!

I'll have to raise the car to rebleed the brake system but this time taking into account the two bleed valves per caliper. I'll pick up a stubby and go at the clutch again... Since I'll have the car up I might as well do the fogging oil. Any advice on how to clean the brake fluid that will undoubtedly get on my pretty red calipers? I've always heard that brake fluid is really bad on paint, but is brake cleaner that much better?

[ruf]

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum. Porsche recommends not adding any fuel additives in the owner's manual. MNBoxster did you find Sta-Bil helped at all?

Anyways, I'm trying to find articles in different forums on how to properly store my Boxster S for the winter months and everyone has different ways of doing it. I'm just trying to figure out what's the best way. All suggestions and ideas are greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

Hi,

Adding Sta-Bil is a good idea. Gasoline is a very unstable subtance and it breaks down rather quickly. Used to be within 30 days, but today's better refined gas (especially from the Name Brands) will actually go 60 days before starting to breakdown. It is a parafinic compound and after this period, this is one of the things which causes issues - the buildup of varnish on the fuel components.

In the spring, I will also usually add an injector cleaner (especially for an FI car). I personally like Lubro-Moly's Jectron - http://www.********************************************/acatalog/Lubro_Moly_Jectron_Fuel_Injection_Cleaner.html

I use it at half the recommended strength just to clear out any varnish which may have built up, especially on the injector nozzles. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by ruf

Hi all,

I'm new to this forum. Porsche recommends not adding any fuel additives in the owner's manual. MNBoxster did you find Sta-Bil helped at all?

Anyways, I'm trying to find articles in different forums on how to properly store my Boxster S for the winter months and everyone has different ways of doing it. I'm just trying to figure out what's the best way. All suggestions and ideas are greatly appreciated.

Hi,

Using StaBil may not be recommended by Porsche, but that's probably because they simply don't make a recommendation on everything. Is it recommended that you not use it? This of course would be a different story.

Stabil works and I use it on all 3 cars I store annually. I rebuilt the carbs on my Esprit a few years ago just prior to bringing the car out for the year. On disassembly, there was absolute no varnish built up inside the Carb, so I believe it works well...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[joshuaalbert]

For what it's worth, I purchased a "winterizing kit" directly from my local Porsche dealer and included among other items was Stabil.

I put Sta-Bil in my car for winter storage back in October.

[jaykay]

Great info here....I don't fog my cylinders though as the car is stored off residence

Perhaps there is enough oil present in horizontally opposed engines to get away with this

Originally Posted by MNBoxster

HI,

I have received several PMs asking for the Winter Storage Procedure I have followed for nearly 30 years. Never let me down and I even still own the car I originally started using this procedure with - a 1-owner, Pristine, '71 Datsun 240Z w/ 20k mi.

Also, for your amusement and berusement, I'll post the Storage advice from the Boxster Owners Manual. Not surprisingly, there are several similarities. Hope this helps...

Here is a copy of some good Winter Storage Tips I posted a last Fall. Hope it helps...

The best way to store any car for the winter is to do the following:

1. Change the oil just prior to storage. Oil absorbes moisture (a natural byproduct of combustion) and if old oil is left in the motor, moisture will evaporate out of the oil and condense on the engine internals causing corrosion. Also, oil becomes acidic with use and should be changed for this reason also. Change oil, start engine and run just long enough for the oil to circulate, then shut off for the season to prevent a buildup of moisture. If planning to change the tranny fluid in the coming season, it's also a good idea to do this now for basically the same reason.

2. Loosen the spark plugs and shoot either fogger oil (aerosol - NOT WD-40!) or a squirt of motor oil from a can into the sparkplug holes - about 1 tsp. This will prevent the rings from corroding and seizing to the cylinder walls over the winter. Upon initial startup in spring, oil will burn off in the 1st few minutes. I have seen piston rings seize to the Cylinder walls and tear-up on initial start-up requiring a rebuild to correct it, so I always follow this step.

3. Increase tire pressures to 59PSI. This will prevent flatspotting and leaks. The tire pressure will drop with ambient temp. Some will say to put the car on blocks, but with modern independent suspension, it's not good to leave it 'unsprung' for long periods. If you want to get really anal, fill the tires with Nitrogen. This is a Dry Gas and will prevent Dry Rot. Nitrogen can be obtained from any welding supply.

4. Store desiccants in the car. These can be purchased and laid on the floor front/back. This prevents mildew from growing and keeps leather from deteriorating due to accumulated moisture. Also, consider spraying some 'Fabreeze' in the Carpet, this will aid in keeping things fresh smelling. The 'Car Cacoons' currently being sold are very good for long term storage and use only a couple bucks electricity the entire season, also reduces door dings and the like. Absent this, use a quality car Cover.

5. Wash the car - don't allow pollution, Tree Sap etc. to work on the paint through the winter.

6. Remove battery from the car and put on a maintainer, preferably inside where it's warm. Be sure to allow plenty of ventilation to prevent Hydrogen Gas buildup.

7. Place the car on a sheet of Vinyl laid out on the garage floor. Make sure the vinyl extends 2 feet from any edge of the car. Garage floors seep moisture through the winter which can condense on the underside of the car, suspension, etc. causing corrosion.

8. Fill Gas Tank with Fresh, Premium fuel. A partial tank will corrode from moist air. Plus, it'll probably be cheaper than filling it next season. You can also add a stabilizer if you wish, won't harm and may help (I do). Just be sure to run the car sufficiently that the stabilizer circulates through the entire fuel system.

9. Check Anti-freeze to be sure sufficient for temps anticipated - not relevent to an A/C Flat 6.

10. Leave the car out of gear and with the Handbrake Off. If your garage is not level, place a brick under the front tire to prevent the car from rolling. Emergency Brake system and Calipers have been known to seize over a season of non-use. If they are engaged, it can be very difficult to dis-engage them (you may need to disassemble the caliper or mechanism to free it). On the other hand, if they are dis-engaged and seize, the hydraulic pressure and/or mechanical advantage of a cable/lever system is often enough to loosen them up again.

11. It may also help to place a couple of Mouse Traps strategically under the car, such as where the exhaust outlet(s), Frame openings, etc. are located. This can prevent something from Moving In to your car over the season. Mice will eat Plastic, Leather and Rubber, in addition to making a mess in general.

Now, from the Porsche Owners Manual

Storing Your Porsche

If you intend to store your Porsche for a prolonged period, please consult your Authorized Porsche dealer. The staff will be glad to advise you on the most suitable and necessary methods.

Clean your vehicle thoroughly inside and outside. Clean the engine compartment. The undercarriage and chassis components should be free of duirt and salt deposits.

Fill up the Fuel Tank.

Increase the tire pressure to 58PSI (4bar). It is not recommended to lift the vehicle, due to the possibility of corrosion on shock absorber piston shafts and potential bending of suspension components.

The vehicle should be moved approximately every four weeks to prevent flat spot on the tires.

Climate Control

The air conditioning system should be in good working condition and fully charged.

Change the Oil and Oil Filter, run the engine for several minutes.

Windshield/Headlight Washer

Check and correct antifreeze/cleaning solution level as necessary.

Electrical System

The battery should be removed from the vehicle and stored in a cool, dry, place, not on a cement floor.

When battery is disconected, the alarm system is deactivated.

Recharge the battery every 3 months. If the battery remains in the vehicle with cables connected, it is necessary to check, remove and recharge the battery every 2-3 weeks.

Do not fast charge the battery

Follow the instructions in the battery chapter.

Vehicle Interior

The interior must be dry, especially in the area of the floor carpets. The use of drying agents (silica-Gel) is recommended in vehicles with Leather Interior and in areas with high humidity. The recommeded amount is 3 fabric bagsm of 1.1lbs. (500 grams) each placed on the floor carpets.

Windows, doors. lids and top must be closed. On cars with manual heating/ventilation systems, air flaps should be opened.

You'll need to undo several of these steps on Spring Start-up, add the battery and if stored longer than 3-4 months, it's a good idea to rotate the engine without starting it.

You can do this in one of two ways. First, if a Manual, put the car in Neutral and push it back a few feet. Then, place the gearshift in 5th gear and push the car forward, this will rotate the engine. If you run out of room, say in a garage, go to neutral again and repeat procedure so you're sure one complete revolution of the engine has occured. This will loosen any frozen engine parts (such as rings, chains, etc.), without the extreme torque of the starter motor. This torque is so great that it can tear rings or do other damage. If you have a TipS car, take a large socket on a breaker bar and turn the crankshaft pulley bolt clockwise to rotate the engine.


I live in Mpls./St. Paul - similar winter conditions. This is how I store each of my cars - Boxster, Lotus Esprit, 240Z, Formula Vee. Hope this helps...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99