03-16-2019, 06:22 AM
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#1
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2003 S, Arctic Silver, M6
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Winnipeg, MB, Canada
Posts: 1,346
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Frequent oil changes are the cheapest insurance for your engine.
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03-16-2019, 06:27 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: PA
Posts: 1,720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulofto
Frequent oil changes are the cheapest insurance for your engine.
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Thanks for the reply. 5K miles or 1 year whichever comes first? Is that frequent enough?
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03-16-2019, 09:16 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piper6909
Thanks for the reply. 5K miles or 1 year whichever comes first? Is that frequent enough?
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If you're using full synthetic and good oil filters. If you drive your car like a sports car and not like a race car, the engine will last longer. Service manager at the local Porsche dealer told me that hi-revs are hard on IMS bearings,
__________________
2001 Boxster
2007 Toyota Highlander
2003 New Beetle Convertible, Turbo, Tip 6 speed
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03-16-2019, 10:05 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sanford NC
Posts: 2,583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson
If you're using full synthetic and good oil filters. If you drive your car like a sports car and not like a race car, the engine will last longer. Service manager at the local Porsche dealer told me that hi-revs are hard on IMS bearings,
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Most service managers are sales motivated, not experts. Yours may be different but always approach what they say with considerable doubt.
Raced Boxsters fail less than garage queens. Who says. Well the guys who discovered that they could do things Porsche said couldn't be done. And they race every weekend.
Change the oil often, maybe half what the manual says. Use good approved oil. Inspect the filters every time. Once the temps have risen to the center of the gauge for a while, then run the revs up. Splash that oil around. Not saying to miss a shift and over-rev. Just take it into the 5k range for a bit.
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03-16-2019, 06:41 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: NY Suburbs
Posts: 339
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefocke
Most service managers are sales motivated, not experts. Yours may be different but always approach what they say with considerable doubt.
Raced Boxsters fail less than garage queens. Who says. Well the guys who discovered that they could do things Porsche said couldn't be done. And they race every weekend.
Change the oil often, maybe half what the manual says. Use good approved oil. Inspect the filters every time. Once the temps have risen to the center of the gauge for a while, then run the revs up. Splash that oil around. Not saying to miss a shift and over-rev. Just take it into the 5k range for a bit.
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Mike, what about getting a magnetic drain plug and oil analysis every oil change? How valuable is a visual inspection of the magnetic plug?
I just bought my Boxster and that's what I plan on doing.
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2004 Boxster S, 6 spd, Triple Black
1986 944 Turbo (sold in 1988)
Since then, a 300ZX, a few BMW 3 Series, a few VW's
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03-16-2019, 07:44 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Foster City CA
Posts: 1,099
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Wishful thinking...you're never going to be completely safe. You can only change the odds of suffering a catastrophic failure.
By the time ferrous metal shows up in filters or drain plugs, damage is taking place already. Maybe a major rebuild fixes things; maybe not.
As others have said, change the oil regularly and change the IMS when replacing the clutch. This is probably the most cost effective approach.
__________________
'87 951
'01S 986 (Sold after 16 years ownership)
'78 924 (carburated; sold when moving to CA)
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03-17-2019, 07:21 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: North Eastern US
Posts: 646
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxMann
Mike, what about getting a magnetic drain plug and oil analysis every oil change? How valuable is a visual inspection of the magnetic plug?
I just bought my Boxster and that's what I plan on doing.
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Hi Boxmann, congrats on your new to you Porsche! While the magnetic drain plug is a good idea, to really pull ferrous material out of the oil proactively you might consider the high temp Neodymium magnet hack on the stock oil canister or a spin-on filter/adapter and at least one Filtermag (which uses shielded hi-temp neodymium magnets). Just google on this site for more info on both options. There are pros and cons with each, so there’s no perfect solution.
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Rgds, Fred
#317 550 Spyder Anniversary Edition 2004 Boxster S, 3.8L Flat Six Innovations engine, PSS9s, etc, etc . . .
The contents of my posts are for entertainment only. As confirmed by my many motor sports fails, I am not qualified to give product endorsements or mechanical advice
Last edited by Oldcarguy; 03-17-2019 at 07:24 AM.
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