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Old 01-21-2019, 04:54 PM   #1
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transmission and clutch replacement

So, back in December, I replaced the oil in my 5 spd manual transmission when the shifting started getting a little "sticky" overnight. When I drained the oil, there were suspended metal particulates in the oil and 3 or 4 small sand grain sized metal chunks were in the bottom of the drain pan. There had also been some VERY mild howling sound that I think was coming from the transmission. So, this weekend I pulled the transmission, installed new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing and installed a replacement used transmission. Took a drive about 90 miles and all seems to be working fine. In all, I think I put 10-12 hours into the swap. I think I spent at least 2 hours getting the car set up on ramps and jack stands. I tried not to hurry. Took my time and thought about what I was doing through the entire process. I wrote a bell housing pattern labeling bolts A thru G. I put each bolt in a zip log baggie labeled with that bolt position. I had to pull the air intake snorkel between the air filter and the throttle body to clear the top of the transmission bell housing. I had to swap the clutch slave cylinder. I had to pull the flywheel to replace the pilot bearing since while using my puller the old bearing fragmented and the sheaf was not pullable at that point. I had to adjust the bracket on the transmission to get her to shift into reverse. It was slightly bent such that the stick back and forth motion was mechanically restricted by the slot in the bracket on the transmission. It was quite an exercise and not something I would want to do a second time.125kmiles on the original transmission, 88kmiles on the clutch. Clutch still appeared to have at least 75% of material left (impressive since I taught my son how to drive a manual transmission with this car).


Last edited by jdlmodelt; 01-21-2019 at 04:59 PM.
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Old 01-22-2019, 04:19 PM   #2
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Thinks to keep in mind. The factory was likely a dual mass flywheel and requires a dual mass compatible clutch pad. My original pressure plate had tight springs and required more foot pressure on the pedal. I didn't know this and ordered a standard pressure plate that requires half as much pressure on the foot to disengage the clutch. I kind of like that. pretty much have to pull the flywheel to remove and install the new pilot bearing. your slave cylinder can be one of two types installed. label all bell housing bolts and put each one in a zip lock baggie so you know exactly where it came from and where it goes, if you can't get into certain extreme shifter right to left gears, it might not be a cable adjustment but a mechanical adjustment of the slot position back at the transmission. The DOT 3 brake fluid for the clutch system comes from the brake fluid reservoir so, top it off when bleeding the clutch, engine must be blocked since it depends on the transmission frame mounts, it was a real pain taking lose the oxygen sensor connectors, google how to release them beforehand, You might have to take three screws and one nut loose on the rear inner fender to get to the back oxygen sensor connector. I pulled all the exhaust out from the exhaust manifolds to the muffler.



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Originally Posted by jdlmodelt View Post
So, back in December, I replaced the oil in my 5 spd manual transmission when the shifting started getting a little "sticky" overnight. When I drained the oil, there were suspended metal particulates in the oil and 3 or 4 small sand grain sized metal chunks were in the bottom of the drain pan. There had also been some VERY mild howling sound that I think was coming from the transmission. So, this weekend I pulled the transmission, installed new clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing and installed a replacement used transmission. Took a drive about 90 miles and all seems to be working fine. In all, I think I put 10-12 hours into the swap. I think I spent at least 2 hours getting the car set up on ramps and jack stands. I tried not to hurry. Took my time and thought about what I was doing through the entire process. I wrote a bell housing pattern labeling bolts A thru G. I put each bolt in a zip log baggie labeled with that bolt position. I had to pull the air intake snorkel between the air filter and the throttle body to clear the top of the transmission bell housing. I had to swap the clutch slave cylinder. I had to pull the flywheel to replace the pilot bearing since while using my puller the old bearing fragmented and the sheaf was not pullable at that point. I had to adjust the bracket on the transmission to get her to shift into reverse. It was slightly bent such that the stick back and forth motion was mechanically restricted by the slot in the bracket on the transmission. It was quite an exercise and not something I would want to do a second time.125kmiles on the original transmission, 88kmiles on the clutch. Clutch still appeared to have at least 75% of material left (impressive since I taught my son how to drive a manual transmission with this car).
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Old 02-09-2019, 04:24 AM   #3
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Join Date: Dec 2018
Location: Lowell NC
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I admire people like you! I have a 1999 Boxster with 80k in tranny and clutch, but I am 80 yrs old and have no facilities to do this. Love my car but someday will have to have this done.

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