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Old 11-10-2025, 05:25 PM   #1
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Join Date: Mar 2025
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2
Adding to an old thread, but I had the same issue. After replacing the electrical portion on the ignition two times and not making a difference; I went another route.

I removed the ignition barrel from the car; this is fairly labor intensive as you have to remove the steering wheel and dash cluster to get access to the barrel. Once you get access, it's not bad removing the part.

Once I remove the barrel, there is a square metal piece on the side of the barrel, I was able to remove this with a flat head screw driver and a hammer, by gradually working the screw driver along the seams and popping out this square. Once the square is removed, I doused the whole barrel in degreaser and let it dry out. Then I applied lithium grease to the internals of the barrel. Once this was done, youll notice that the spring loaded piece will extend and retract much easier.

This is what was causing the issue. When you remove the key, the barrel was not retracting to tell the car the key was removed which left the aux power (radio, etc) still running. It's also the reason the key is hard to turn in cold weather, the old grease gets gummed up and doesn't allow the bolt to extend. I fixed this about a year ago and it's worked perfectly every since.

Didn't cost a dime and no changes to the exiting key or anything like that.
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