Metal coolant reservoir...

[BirdDog]

As long as people are talking about this topic, I thought I'd bring up an idea I had...

I'm betting most of us have seen those "Flex-Seal" commercials...

"We cut this boat in half..." "...even seals underwater..." etc...

I've thought of coating the outside of my tank with it. I'd put masking tape over the level window, and slather a thick coat of the stuff over the entire outside of the tank.

That way, there'd be no problem if the tank eventually cracked, even if it was at a seam or where the supports attach.

Before applying the Flex-Seal I'd wipe the outside of the tank down with a rag and some kind of solvent/cleaner (rubbing alcohol, whatever...) to remove any oily residue so that I'd have a good bonding surface.

Flex-Seal is basically rubber, so it should allow for some expansion/contraction of the tank (as it heats up and cools down) without de-bonding.

Again, just a thought...

If I ever end up doing this I'll post pics and/or a how-to...

(would probably have to be done BEFORE tank failure to provide the best bonding surfaces...)

thoughts?

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by BirdDog

As long as people are talking about this topic, I thought I'd bring up an idea I had...

I'm betting most of us have seen those "Flex-Seal" commercials...

"We cut this boat in half..." "...even seals underwater..." etc...

I've thought of coating the outside of my tank with it. I'd put masking tape over the level window, and slather a thick coat of the stuff over the entire outside of the tank.

That way, there'd be no problem if the tank eventually cracked, even if it was at a seam or where the supports attach.

Before applying the Flex-Seal I'd wipe the outside of the tank down with a rag and some kind of solvent/cleaner (rubbing alcohol, whatever...) to remove any oily residue so that I'd have a good bonding surface.

Flex-Seal is basically rubber, so it should allow for some expansion/contraction of the tank (as it heats up and cools down) without de-bonding.

Again, just a thought...

If I ever end up doing this I'll post pics and/or a how-to...

(would probably have to be done BEFORE tank failure to provide the best bonding surfaces...)

thoughts?

That boat in the ads is not running on 210F water/glycol mixture at 18 PSIG. Knowing what people have tried (unsuccessfully) to "get the car home" after a tank failure, I don't think any kind of tape is going to do it...………..

[kk2002s]

Originally Posted by BirdDog

As long as people are talking about this topic, I thought I'd bring up an idea I had...

I'm betting most of us have seen those "Flex-Seal" commercials...

"We cut this boat in half..." "...even seals underwater..." etc...

I've thought of coating the outside of my tank with it. I'd put masking tape over the level window, and slather a thick coat of the stuff over the entire outside of the tank.

That way, there'd be no problem if the tank eventually cracked, even if it was at a seam or where the supports attach.

Before applying the Flex-Seal I'd wipe the outside of the tank down with a rag and some kind of solvent/cleaner (rubbing alcohol, whatever...) to remove any oily residue so that I'd have a good bonding surface.

Flex-Seal is basically rubber, so it should allow for some expansion/contraction of the tank (as it heats up and cools down) without de-bonding.

Again, just a thought...

If I ever end up doing this I'll post pics and/or a how-to...

(would probably have to be done BEFORE tank failure to provide the best bonding surfaces...)

thoughts?

That would also be equivalent to painting with that sealant paint the walls and floor of your basement hoping it will keep the water from pushing through. The pressure will win in a short amount of time.
Now maybe fiber-glassing the tank and sealing with epoxy coating before install might work

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by kk2002s

The pressure will win in a short amount of time.

Unless you cover the inside of the tank..

[particlewave]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Unless you cover the inside of the tank..

Because bits of crud blocking up coolant passages is cool.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by particlewave

Because bits of crud blocking up coolant passages is cool.

Particlewave, actually there is a product called POR15 that it was designed to protect the underwater metal surfaces of the offshore oil platforms (you can apply it under water..!), it is nasty to use as you would Not be able to remove it from your skin.. (you have to wait until the sking re-grows..), but once it cures you will not be able to remove it.. it is very thin liquid so should be able to apply easy (as long as you are wearing long heavy duty rubber globes)

I use it once to reline the inside of a leaky X1/9 fuel tank, it does work..

[10/10ths]

...I POR15 coated a fuel tank on my old Ducati.

great stuff.

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by 10/10ths

...I POR15 coated a fuel tank on my old Ducati.

great stuff.

I did POR15 inside the tank and over steel parts like suspension arms, etc. with success, so I trust that stuff. And it is nasty when it gets on hands...

But I do not think it sticks well to plastic surface... without rough porous surface it can peel right off.

[Starter986]

Originally Posted by kk2002s

Now maybe fiber-glassing the tank and sealing with epoxy coating before install might work

When, not if, my tank goes... that's the route I'm going to take. I'll make that thing bulletproof. It'll be hidden behind the carpeting, so I wouldn't care what it looked like. It'll be, like, 2 inches thick with fiberglass and epoxy. And not some measly two-part epoxy. Nope. I'll source some ridiculous 30-part stuff.

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