11-23-2018, 07:40 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: It's a kind of magic.....
Posts: 6,638
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug427
I know it's not ideal, but for reasons too long to go into, doing it on my back is simply not an option. I do appreciate the concern, I really do, and I do not in any way want to come off as snide or unappreciative of he input. However, given that doing it on the lift is really my only option, I'd really like to hear from the numerous others who have actually done it successfully on a 4 post lift. If anyone can chime in here on the method I aould greatly appreciate it. I know Woody has done it but I feel tremendously guilty taking up his time to keep asking him. He's a busy guy!
Anyone?
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We have done it on a four post lift, but one with sufficient spacing to allow the engine to drop straight down on a lifting table. Trying this with the car hanging off the end of the lift is a recipe for a disaster, period. If the engine won’t pass between the ramps, do it on the ground or find another lift.
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“Anything really new is invented only in one’s youth. Later, one becomes more experienced, more famous – and more stupid.” - Albert Einstein
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11-23-2018, 08:52 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
We have done it on a four post lift, but one with sufficient spacing to allow the engine to drop straight down on a lifting table. Trying this with the car hanging off the end of the lift is a recipe for a disaster, period. If the engine won’t pass between the ramps, do it on the ground or find another lift.
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Or build ramps over the ramps? Pics would be nice, but 4x4s and 3/4 in plywood are moderately cheap and will carry a lot of psi.
I did mine with an air jack, lots of blocks of wood and tall jack stands, a reinforced furniture dolly, and a cherry picker that I previously had used to lift a V8 out of a dodge ram. In this case, I used the cherry picker to lower the engine out the bottom.
First time is difficult, it's really a puzzle and you end up going back to correctly disconnect things. And actually, it was a rather easy reinstall.
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2001 Boxster
2007 Toyota Highlander
2003 New Beetle Convertible, Turbo, Tip 6 speed
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11-23-2018, 08:54 AM
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,644
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I've probably dropped 20 and installed two motors/transmissions on my 4 post before I notched my 4 post so the drive train could go through the middle. Now I drop everything down the middle. To drop it off the rear I would disconnect everything except the motor and transmission mounts. I would use the ramps that you use to drive up on the lift as extensions. I had big blocks that would support the ramps as I pushed the vehicle out onto the ramps. Remove the engine/tranmission mounts, lower the motor on a lift cart, push the car back onto the lift and you're done. I would ratchet the front of the car to a front cross-member on the lift to keep the car from moving backwards. Sure it's not the safest way, but sometimes you work with what you have. I've used the same process for removing drive trains out of 911's and camaros.
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Woody
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11-23-2018, 09:39 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Edmonton,Alberta
Posts: 288
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I used my 4 post for dropping my 356's engine. Once. Its a big pain if it does not drop between the ramps and that is with a light engine. I used a small ATV lift to lower the engine. A tall hydraulic table would be ideal. Now I just do it on the open floor. There is a bigger benefit to doing it with a Boxster because there is a lot more work to do underneath to drop the engine. Distance between ramps will be critical.
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'58 356A coupe, just a driver
'00 Boxster S fair weather - daily driver
'11 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - winter daily driver
'92 F250 - junk hauler; previous Porsches '95 993;'08 Cayman S;'70 911E
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11-23-2018, 12:35 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 163
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsnotanova
I've probably dropped 20 and installed two motors/transmissions on my 4 post before I notched my 4 post so the drive train could go through the middle. Now I drop everything down the middle. To drop it off the rear I would disconnect everything except the motor and transmission mounts. I would use the ramps that you use to drive up on the lift as extensions. I had big blocks that would support the ramps as I pushed the vehicle out onto the ramps. Remove the engine/tranmission mounts, lower the motor on a lift cart, push the car back onto the lift and you're done. I would ratchet the front of the car to a front cross-member on the lift to keep the car from moving backwards. Sure it's not the safest way, but sometimes you work with what you have. I've used the same process for removing drive trains out of 911's and camaros.
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Any idea what the dimensions of your notch are Woody? Total width x total front to back?
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11-24-2018, 04:32 AM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Bastrop, Tx
Posts: 2,644
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Sorry I didn't measure how how long but you'll need a minimum of 37 inches between the ramps. You need to be very careful of the solenoid cable sticking out of the head as it breaks very easily.
I added reinforcement to the backside of the ramp where I cut out for the notch. I've had heavy diesel trucks on it and there was no signs of bending. Sorry the picture's upside down
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Woody
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11-24-2018, 09:48 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 163
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Thanks so much, Woody - that'll get me a starting point at least.
Edit - Just measured my lift - if I notch it back the same exact way you did yours it'll give me 37 1/2" wide maximum - whew, that's close!
Last edited by Doug427; 11-24-2018 at 09:51 AM.
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