The existing wheel bolt was very easy to remove. Almost 2 easy. It felt hand tight, and then maybe a little snug with a socket. Hmmmm.
When I began taking off the wheel I did see the clock spring wiggle a bit and, knowing from what I read... and a couple pictures I had seen... blue taped it so it wouldn't budge.
Once I decided that the number of wires paled in comparison to that of a super-computer... I slowed down... used a couple markers to mark the new wheel connections and to where the wires from the clock springs met them. It started making sense. It wasn't so complicated (I over analyzed).
Unfastening the Tip connection from the existing wheel took some time until I figured out how to disconnect the connector. I didn't want to break anything.
Pulled the clock spring wires through the hole... positioned some here... some there... so that nothing risked chafing... plugged everything in.
After I lined up the new wheel I remembered to remove the blue tape. The steering wheel was well seated, almost all the way in... and slowly I peeled off the tape then completely seating the wheel.
Reattaching the torx screws, yes, was the most challenging. Patience was key. That took me 10 minutes until I was satisfied.
OK.
Positive connected. Negative connected. Turned key... started the car... fired up... and lights started going out. The only light remaining was the spoiler light... and I know that goes out after a few seconds of driving.
So... Success. Thank you to those who offered up advice.
PW... I did stop at HF to check out the Torx tool, as it was on my way to HD. It was the 3-pack for 6.99... and it looked cheap... and felt cheap. They did have a nice all metal torx tool (no allen. just a one piece with the standard torx sizes) for ~$8.99... but the torx, that unfold, weren't as lengthy as the cheap looking part. I passed.
The Husky I purchased... and it is solid. Thank you, again, for the lead.
Cheers!
Attachment 21743