10-22-2018, 11:17 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Illinois
Posts: 295
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Capitalism is a great concept, but all these parts can be obtained from Rod End Supply for about half that.
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10-22-2018, 11:31 AM
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#2
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Who's askin'?
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Utah
Posts: 2,448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newsguy
Capitalism is a great concept, but all these parts can be obtained from Rod End Supply for about half that.
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Well aren't YOU just everyone's best friend? hahaha.
Personally, I don't mind paying somebody to do the research for me on what size, length, etc for the rod ends, plus the tie-rod, plus provide the hardware. then assemble it all into a kit for me, so that I can simply ORDER it, and then INSTALL it.... without worrying if I ordered the wrong one, waiting to see if it'll arrive correctly, hoping that the bolts I sourced are correct, etc etc etc.
And I know that personally, if I were offering a service / product on a forum and you hijacked my thread to tell everyone how to get my service / product without me, I'd probably wish you had started your OWN thread about it.
but that's just me, and my sense of decency.
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10-22-2018, 01:13 PM
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#3
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1998 Boxster Silver/Red
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: 92262
Posts: 3,093
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maytag
Well aren't YOU just everyone's best friend? hahaha.
Personally, I don't mind paying somebody to do the research for me on what size, length, etc for the rod ends, plus the tie-rod, plus provide the hardware. then assemble it all into a kit for me, so that I can simply ORDER it, and then INSTALL it.... without worrying if I ordered the wrong one, waiting to see if it'll arrive correctly, hoping that the bolts I sourced are correct, etc etc etc.
And I know that personally, if I were offering a service / product on a forum and you hijacked my thread to tell everyone how to get my service / product without me, I'd probably wish you had started your OWN thread about it.
but that's just me, and my sense of decency.
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I agree with you. Certainly you have a backend investment of time associated with the development particulars for the part. I recognize the value ($$ - time being money) in that effort. Personally, I commend you.
Further, anyone could source parts to fabricate half-the stuff "sold" upon these forums. That's the easy part.
Keep up the good work. Thank you.
__________________
1998 Porsche Boxster
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10-22-2018, 02:39 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: So Cal
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newsguy
Capitalism is a great concept, but all these parts can be obtained from Rod End Supply for about half that.
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You can also go buy an aluminum bar from anywhere, mill the ends, source the attaching hardware for about 1/3 the price, but then again you will have to have the tools/mills to do the machining required, and the time, and the skills...
Like I said, I have been doing stuff like this since I could crawl, I had a hammer in my hands at age 2 and have been turning wrenches for over 50 years now so If I am offering a product, I know it's going to be a superior product that will never fail. But if you want to build your own using parts from Rod End Supply, go ahead. But I have already sourced the items, done the homework and verified fitment.
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10-22-2018, 02:43 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: California Central Coast
Posts: 1,476
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Are the rod end threads reversed so you can adjust the length while on car by rotating the tube?
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10-22-2018, 02:46 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: So Cal
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911monty
Are the rod end threads reversed so you can adjust the length while on car by rotating the tube?
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Yes. And due to a previous request I have contacted the manufacture to see if "flats" can be placed on the tube for a wrenched adjustment. But the tube rotates easily by hand with wheels off the ground.
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10-22-2018, 01:45 PM
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#7
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550 Anniversary
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Surrey, UK
Posts: 747
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I'm not quite seeing the relationship between the quality or performance of the bar and an alignment?
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10-22-2018, 02:44 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: So Cal
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edc
I'm not quite seeing the relationship between the quality or performance of the bar and an alignment?
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A stock alignment keeps everything in a correct relationship for proper street performance. I mentioned a trip to the alignment shop to see what changes with the adjustability of this product. From what I can at this time only imagine is that we would be able to dial in/out some camber or toe for track use. Once I get on the rack I will be able to verify.
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10-23-2018, 03:24 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 1,135
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I just used some aluminum rod stock and drilled holes. Preloadimg this stuff is pointless in my opinion
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10-25-2018, 03:20 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 1,135
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What are you plannimg to adjust on the track? Any attempts to increase negative csmber in this manner would be foolish
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10-25-2018, 06:14 AM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: So Cal
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Quadcammer
What are you plannimg to adjust on the track? Any attempts to increase negative csmber in this manner would be foolish
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I don't know about being "foolish", but we'll see. I would think another degree of negative could be beneficial.
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10-25-2018, 06:57 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 1,135
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Ok, so the piece that holds your control arms and to which this cross bar attaches is held to the body by two nuts and the front crossbrace.
its a fixed assembly and it bolts flush to the body and sits in locating dowel studs.
You A) want to place this piece, which can crack, under tension.
B) Think that you can push this piece further out enough to create an additional degree of negative camber?
The reality is that this bar's only purpose is to stiffen up the rear of the assembly by joining the aluminum carriers (more so than the aluminum plate) and prevent them from flexing under heavy load.
The rear setup of the 986 can get to about 2.4 degrees of camber even with stock control arms via the eccentric setup. Anyone needing more negative camber than that will likely be running adjustable control arms and/or camber plates.
I applaud anyone trying to make new products for this car, but your claims reflect a serious lack of understanding of how the rear of the car is assembled and the manner in which alignment changes should be made.
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10-26-2018, 09:34 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: So Cal
Posts: 300
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So I had a chance to get to the alignment shop today, for two reasons. One I wanted to get my setup to RoW and two to see what adjustability was in this stress bar. What I found was this, my stock setup is good but not perfect, it seems that after 92k miles I may need to get into looking for some worn bushings. But I was able to get the proper camber set for initial lapping.
However, what I did find regarding this bar was that simply turning the bar one turn in or out would adjust the toe angle only, one turn IN would change the angle out .10 degrees and turning the bar OUT would result in a .10 degree change in from stock. So no significant camber adjustments, which is kinda what I expected. However after some "spirited" driving after the alignment, I did notice a stiffer feel to the rear.
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10-27-2018, 01:28 PM
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#14
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Your new alignment specs look good and will maximize your car for stock suspension running dual purpose street/track use, with much better tire wear. It should turn in better and feel more planted in a high speed 3rd gear sweeper. Now to add some tires with more dry grip that hold up well to continuous lapping.
I agree that the lower stress bar is the wrong tool to add negative camber to the rear. The front is where added camber pays the greatest benefits anyways. Fix that first, then evaluate the rear.
__________________
2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
Last edited by Topless; 11-01-2018 at 04:28 PM.
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10-27-2018, 01:39 PM
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#15
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: So Cal
Posts: 300
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Topless
Your new alignment specs look good and will maximize your car for stock suspension running dual purpose street/rack use, with much better tire wear. It shout turn in better and feel more planted in a high speed 3rd gear sweeper. Now to add some tires with more dry grip that hold up well to continuous lapping.
I agree that the lower stress bar is the wrong tool to add negative camber to the rear. The front is where added camber pays the greatest benefits anyways. Fix that first, then evaluate the rear.
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The rear stress bar will have to be fully evaluated at the track, but the development of it was mainly to tighten up the rear and solve a potential weak point in that aluminum pan.
Tires may have to wait, just put on a new set of Falkon Ziex 950 to try.
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11-01-2018, 04:27 PM
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#16
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Track rat
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Southern ID
Posts: 3,701
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Well, those tires will be fine as an all around commuter A/S tire. On a race track they will overheat and get greasy quick. You will not generate the lateral Gs necessary to thoroughly test your lower stress bar design on those tires.
If you plan to do track days, find a set of takeoff wheels and mount some Extreme performance street tires that add monstrous dry grip and can really take the heat of continuous lapping. They will also make your track day experience more enjoyable.
__________________
2009 Cayman 2.9L PDK (with a few tweaks)
PCA-GPX Chief Driving Instructor-Ret.
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