I need help with brakes
 

Successfully replaced engine and master cylinder. I have a motive power bleeder and have bled the brakes at least 6 times with the bleeder and used the old fashion manual method. However, after bleeding the brakes, both methods, and getting no air out of the system, my pedal is still mushy and barely lows the car down. Additionally, if I keep the clutch depressed, it sticks to the floor.

My slave cylinder is less than 10K miles old.

The car sat for 4 months while working up the nerve to replace the engine.

While driving, the clutch works fine; able to shift smoothly through all gears.

Brakes work, but barely. I had to use the hand brake to assist in stopping.

I thought of replacing the slave cylinder, but didn't want to throw money in that direction if that is not the problem.

Any help will be greatly appreciated in resolving this problem

The term ‘slave cylinder’ applies to the clutch hydraulics, not brakes?

Flouse, tell us again about your car? Specifically, does it have PSM?

I remember reading in the pelican projects book, something about a process that's required to bleed the system, because air gets trapped in the PSM. ?? I may have the details wrong here, because I merely skimmed it, rather than actual reading, haha.

Have you read the procedure in the pelican book?

Your clutch and brakes share a reservoir.... but that's it. They of course have different master cylinders, and different slave cylinders (or calipers, in the appropriate system). So these two issues should not be related. UNLESS: what brake fluid did you put in? And what brake fluid was in it before? DOT 3 and DOT 5 are NOT compatible.... and will gel in the line, causing all sorts of terrible results, including quite possibly the ones you're describing.

Not trying to horrible-ize here. Tell us more.

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Did you bench bleed the master cylinder BEFORE installation? If not and you weren't careful you have pushed air into the ABS pump and system. There is a procedure to do solve this I just don't have ATM. Off hand it will involve activating the ABS using a Durametric and bleeding.

+1, with everything Monty just said. And he's probably describing the same thing I skimmed. Makes sense it's the ABS, not the PSM. (Though related, haha)

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No I did not bench bleed the Master cylinder. I don't have a Durametric. Is there a "shade tree" remedy for this???

I have a 1999 Boxster 2.5L with manual shift. I used DOT 4. I installed the master w/o conducting a bench bleed due to ignorance. I guess I missed or skipped over that step in the 101 Projects book. Is there a graceful recovery or will this necessitate the removal of the master and then doing the bench bleed and re-install?

Hmmm... I'm sorry, I don't know. I bench bleed as a matter of course. I'm not sure you'll be able (even with a power bleeder) to get that primed / bled.
Maybe Monty can help here.
That's almost certainly the issue.

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I just happen to know a "shade tree" mechanic.....

This will not make things worse and may just solve your issue. Cross your fingers hold my beer and try this......:)

1. Set up to bleed your brakes.

2 When ready Turn on the ignition and leave on. This will activate the ABS system

3.Go to wheel furthest from master (right rear) and open the bleeder. This should kick the ABS pump on and pump the air out through the bleeder.

4.Bleed the remaining slaves.

5. Turn your key off and use the power bleeder to bleed all brakes.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

and speaking of slaves…

Perhaps be a good idea to bleed the clutch slave as well, according to the manual, you should keep open (under pressure) the bleeder for about 20 seconds.. :eek:

I always put 'two' one liter bottles of DOT 4 on the Motive, just to minimize the possibility of getting air into the line