05-10-2018, 06:13 PM
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#21
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof3
I'm a little confused by the pictures. When you opened the cap, did you then see all the gunk? It looks as though there is no coolant in the tank at all? Or, had it been drained? IF there is no coolant in the tank, or hasn't been, that seems very odd. Sometimes, a cap can get white/brownish gunk as you see from condensation. Notorious in my Jeep, totally harmless, just means I need to drive it harder. Not sure if the Boxster has this issue potentially or not. I agree with the rest, no matter what route you take, you need to flush the snot out of your coolant system, until the entire system runs completely clear, then test from there.
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Yeah, pic was taken after the test drive and coolant leaked right out the overflow tube under the engine. I tried to post a video but for some reason it says it needs a moderator approval.
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05-10-2018, 06:17 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Anyways, I'll just post text and not a video. I bought the Harbor Freight Cooling Pressure Tester and the black adapter fit perfect. Pressurized to 12 psi (same as stock overflow cap psi) and it held. The video I took of it holding 12 psi steady for a minute. I even took off the oil cap just to make sure I wasn't sealing it. Same same, no leaking and had it hold for 10 more minutes.
I am thinking the PO put oil in the overflow tank and at the same time the overflow cap is bad.
Your thoughts?
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05-11-2018, 05:03 AM
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#23
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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I'd go with the accidental contam theory, and perform the multi flush and distilled water test. It's the cheapest and easiest way to start, and you might resolve the problem for the cost of a few gallons of distilled water. Kroger sells it cheap.
__________________
2003 S manual
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05-11-2018, 05:37 AM
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#24
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesp
I'd go with the accidental contam theory, and perform the multi flush and distilled water test. It's the cheapest and easiest way to start, and you might resolve the problem for the cost of a few gallons of distilled water. Kroger sells it cheap.
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Exactly what I am thinking. But why use distilled for just flushing? When my Yukon got trans fluid contamination, the trans shop used simple green and water to flush out the system. I was thinking purple power as it's a great degreaser. Just run it thru with tap water with car running to warm it up, heater on of course to get the heater core. Maybe do this a few times and clean out the overflow too. After it's clean, then fill it up with the recommended coolant 50/50.
It's just the process I was thinking. Also, since this is the first mid engine I ever worked on, is there a bottom hose on the radiator? I am assuming in front of the car? Please disregard the noobness in my questions.
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05-11-2018, 05:52 AM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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05-11-2018, 05:57 AM
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#26
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Beginner
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Houston
Posts: 1,659
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There is a drain plug in the bottom. As i recall its an 8 or 10 mm allen screw. Looks like a little round metal button on the aluminum tube manifold under and in front of the engine. Using detergent will greatly increase the cleaning, but it can also foam. I'm not sure how that behaves in a water pump. You'll want to make sure there is no detergent left in the cooling system when you are done if you go that route. If you do use detergent please take photos and let us know how it goes.
__________________
2003 S manual
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05-11-2018, 07:57 AM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesp
There is a drain plug in the bottom. As i recall its an 8 or 10 mm allen screw. Looks like a little round metal button on the aluminum tube manifold under and in front of the engine. Using detergent will greatly increase the cleaning, but it can also foam. I'm not sure how that behaves in a water pump. You'll want to make sure there is no detergent left in the cooling system when you are done if you go that route. If you do use detergent please take photos and let us know how it goes.
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It seems that the purple power versus simple green came up a lot in google. Consensus seems to go with Simple Green HD. If the pros at my trans shop uses it, it must be the way to go. Yes, I saw a video of where all the hose connectors and that drain plug near the thermostat in a video. Going to also change out the thermostat and housing as well. A lot easier to do while all the coolant is out. I'm going to remove the thermostat and then do the flush, this way nothing is blocking the flow while it warms up. Pics for sure will come.
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05-11-2018, 11:45 AM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: CO
Posts: 989
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Pretty sure I've seen it mentioned here, to NOT use any detergents in the flush. (maybe search) There are tons of nooks and crannies in these systems, and seems the best advice is to use simple distilled water. Also, unless you vacuum fill the system, you need to know the bleeding/burping procedure to get all the air bubbles out of the system.
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05-11-2018, 01:35 PM
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#29
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Clifton, NJ
Posts: 1,135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geof3
I'm a little confused by the pictures. When you opened the cap, did you then see all the gunk? It looks as though there is no coolant in the tank at all? Or, had it been drained? IF there is no coolant in the tank, or hasn't been, that seems very odd. Sometimes, a cap can get white/brownish gunk as you see from condensation. Notorious in my Jeep, totally harmless, just means I need to drive it harder. Not sure if the Boxster has this issue potentially or not. I agree with the rest, no matter what route you take, you need to flush the snot out of your coolant system, until the entire system runs completely clear, then test from there.
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That is applicable to the oil fill cap, not the coolant
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05-12-2018, 06:43 AM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Just curious and still learning. Although I did the cooling system leak test, exactly what does it diagnose on our cars? I know the obvious like a leaking overflow tank, hoses, but what else does it diagnose?
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05-12-2018, 06:25 PM
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#31
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 442
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I did that with mine shortly after purchasing. Your coolant cap isn't sealing properly and when the coolant gets hot it overflows and drains through that little hose to the ground.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDano
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05-12-2018, 08:00 PM
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#32
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Last edited by MPDano; 05-12-2018 at 08:04 PM.
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05-12-2018, 08:21 PM
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#33
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,493
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Keep flushing! Certainly worth a shot. Sure hope it works for you.
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05-12-2018, 09:13 PM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2018
Location: San Diego
Posts: 19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dghii
Keep flushing! Certainly worth a shot. Sure hope it works for you.
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Yes, will do. The gunk is old oil as you can tell by the color.
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