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Old 03-27-2018, 02:18 PM   #1
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Cost comparison of IMSB fixes?

Approximately how much do the various options add to the cost of clutch job?
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Old 03-27-2018, 04:09 PM   #2
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I haven't personally done it - seems a bit overblown (no pun intended) based on my research and most mechanics in my area have said similar things - but I got a quote for a new clutch, flywheel, and LN ceramic bearing which didn't add any labor at all since it's pretty straightforward once you have transmission out. My quote was $3200 parts and labor for the $800 LN bearing + clutch/flywheel.
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Old 03-27-2018, 06:55 PM   #3
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New bearings are cheap.

Engines are expensive.
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:08 PM   #4
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Parts from $150 - 1500. The cost doesn’t determine which option is necessarily better
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Old 03-28-2018, 04:39 PM   #5
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it's difficult to do a cost-risk analysis without the costs..
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Old 03-28-2018, 06:04 PM   #6
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LOL. My IMS, RMS, and clutch ran about $3800. But that's suburban SF pricing.
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Old 03-28-2018, 06:06 PM   #7
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New bearings are cheap.

Engines are expensive.
Yeah but replacing a perfectly working original double-row bearing is waste of money and a bearing. No plan to replace mine at 82K miles, without any sign of failure: zero metal flakes in oil filter. YMMV
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Old 03-28-2018, 07:45 PM   #8
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Inquiring minds want to know. I wonder if anybody has ever pulled the OEM bearing out, pried the inner cover out, cleaned out the old goop and decided that the bearing is fine? Then put it back in?

I read somewhere that some version of a recommended fix is to remove the inner cover of a new bearing. That way fresh oil can regularly get into the bearing. I know it sounds like heresy and who would get that deep into a clutch X/O without a new bearing ready to go, but somebody must have tried it.
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Old 03-28-2018, 09:04 PM   #9
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Inquiring minds want to know. I wonder if anybody has ever pulled the OEM bearing out, pried the inner cover out, cleaned out the old goop and decided that the bearing is fine? Then put it back in?

I read somewhere that some version of a recommended fix is to remove the inner cover of a new bearing. That way fresh oil can regularly get into the bearing. I know it sounds like heresy and who would get that deep into a clutch X/O without a new bearing ready to go, but somebody must have tried it.
I think the non oil fed bearings are plain bearings (various types) with no seals. Or maybe the other way around. When my clutch dies, I will do the rest. Currently no signs of an issue.
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Old 03-29-2018, 01:23 AM   #10
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Inquiring minds want to know. I wonder if anybody has ever pulled the OEM bearing out, pried the inner cover out, cleaned out the old goop and decided that the bearing is fine? Then put it back in?

I read somewhere that some version of a recommended fix is to remove the inner cover of a new bearing. That way fresh oil can regularly get into the bearing. I know it sounds like heresy and who would get that deep into a clutch X/O without a new bearing ready to go, but somebody must have tried it.
If you did, it would promptly fail. The extraction process overly stresses the old balls, races, and cages, which is why LN from the beginning has always said that if you try to install a bearing and get it cocked, and then have to extract it, do no use the bearing, get a new one. The extraction process is a one way trip to the trash can.......
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Old 03-29-2018, 04:24 AM   #11
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My thoughts are this .....

It is an expensive engine. Very much so sometimes replacements valued more than the vehicle itself.

Bearings are mechanical in nature. Although IMSB is sealed and designed for longevity all bearings fail at some point. Unfortunately for us we rely on a bearing placed in the most expensive part of the car. Wheel bearings fail prematurely in some cars while others of the same make and model have no issue.
Another common bearing failure is throw out bearings in your clutch assembly. I’ve seen few but some fail before the life of the clutch disk. Then you have to listen to the noise with the clutch engaged. Alternators aswell get noisy when the pulley bearings go.

Sadly the force applied to our imsb is so great that when it fails it’s catastrophic. Imsb as much as I hate to admit it should be a regular 100k maintenance item.
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Old 03-29-2018, 08:16 AM   #12
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Is anyone here familiar with this type?

Roller Bearing IMS Retrofit Kit – RND Engines
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Old 03-29-2018, 05:24 PM   #13
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One thing that is kind of cool, LN is now offering their install parts (to include the RMS tool and seal) for a deposit/return deal. That kind of makes LN the way to go for me. Though I still think 800.00 for a bearing and cover is almost robbery. I'll do it when it's clutch time. I'm not going to stress too much before then. Just keep an eye on oil pressure and levels and do the usual inspections etc.
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Old 03-29-2018, 07:02 PM   #14
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That makes perfect sense. I have never been that deep into an M96 engine. I am thinking it would be a great paper weight/conversation piece on my desk though. Thanks for the insight.

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If you did, it would promptly fail. The extraction process overly stresses the old balls, races, and cages, which is why LN from the beginning has always said that if you try to install a bearing and get it cocked, and then have to extract it, do no use the bearing, get a new one. The extraction process is a one way trip to the trash can.......
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Old 03-30-2018, 05:07 AM   #15
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That makes perfect sense. I have never been that deep into an M96 engine. I am thinking it would be a great paper weight/conversation piece on my desk though. Thanks for the insight.
You might be surprised at how many people choose to ignore LN's advice, only to ultimately find out why they said it in the first place.........
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