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Old 03-05-2018, 01:24 PM   #1
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Stuck Swaybar Pinch Bolt - halting my upgrade

Posted this on Rennlist - no responses there. Figured I might have better luck here...

There are several threads around regarding stuck pinch-bolts, but haven't really found a definitive answer. Hoping to gain some more knowledge as well as to have it documented for future suspension upgrades. Car is a 99 986 that spent most or all of its life in Pittsburg Salt. Moving to PSS9s and Tarett drop links

The trouble I am having is with the drivers's side rear. Situation is as follows
  • Car is on jackstands
  • Zipped off the m15 (?) flanged nut that is on the forward facing side. No countering needed
  • Used my (17mm?) or whatever the appropriate wrench was on the rearward facing side to try to rotate bolt
  • Bolt promptly rounded itself off.
  • Read elsewhare on the internet that you should zip the swaybar link off to give you direct access to nut. Did this
  • Using a breaker bar and lots of PB blaster forward facing side of the exposed bolt, was able to get the bolt to rotate some with a lot of work. No room to Pb last on the rear side as the flange of the nut is up hard against the upright carrier
  • Caveat with - I don't care if the shock gets destroyed as it is blown and I have PSS9s
  • Put bolt back on and started backing with my 2.5 pound sledge. Only have a foot or so of room available so can't get a really good swing. No progress made,
  • Tried placing hack under strut and moving it through large range of motion an inch at a time to try and relieve pressure - no dice
Any advice on next steps? Heat, more PB, both, where to apply? 5 lb sledge, Turn bolt while hitting with sledge (will take 2 people - as I am not that coordinated. Help!

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Old 03-05-2018, 01:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattMarks View Post
Posted this on Rennlist - no responses there. Figured I might have better luck here...

There are several threads around regarding stuck pinch-bolts, but haven't really found a definitive answer. Hoping to gain some more knowledge as well as to have it documented for future suspension upgrades. Car is a 99 986 that spent most or all of its life in Pittsburg Salt. Moving to PSS9s and Tarett drop links

The trouble I am having is with the drivers's side rear. Situation is as follows
  • Car is on jackstands
  • Zipped off the m15 (?) flanged nut that is on the forward facing side. No countering needed
  • Used my (17mm?) or whatever the appropriate wrench was on the rearward facing side to try to rotate bolt
  • Bolt promptly rounded itself off.
  • Read elsewhare on the internet that you should zip the swaybar link off to give you direct access to nut. Did this
  • Using a breaker bar and lots of PB blaster forward facing side of the exposed bolt, was able to get the bolt to rotate some with a lot of work. No room to Pb last on the rear side as the flange of the nut is up hard against the upright carrier
  • Caveat with - I don't care if the shock gets destroyed as it is blown and I have PSS9s
  • Put bolt back on and started backing with my 2.5 pound sledge. Only have a foot or so of room available so can't get a really good swing. No progress made,
  • Tried placing hack under strut and moving it through large range of motion an inch at a time to try and relieve pressure - no dice
Any advice on next steps? Heat, more PB, both, where to apply? 5 lb sledge, Turn bolt while hitting with sledge (will take 2 people - as I am not that coordinated. Help!
Hello Matt,

A Dremel tool will be your best friend here.. but Please remember to wear eye protection!!
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Old 03-05-2018, 03:35 PM   #3
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Try jacking up that hub which may take some pressure off? Then just tapping the threaded end with a sledge hammer should get it moving? I just recently had to do this, although it wasn't as frozen as yours. edit: just saw that you did that already....

Last edited by steved0x; 03-06-2018 at 05:08 AM.
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Old 03-06-2018, 04:28 AM   #4
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I’m sure you have, but you did remove the bottom end of the drop link that attaches to the sway bar?
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Old 03-07-2020, 06:24 PM   #5
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Sway Bar Drop Link corroded in place

I know this is an old thread but I never found any solutions posted. My sway bar drop link was also completely seized inside of the aluminum carrier housing. No amount of pounding worked, the bottom was free and there was no tension on the bolt. I ended up cutting off the sway bar ball joint with a saws-all and then using a 17mm socket with a breaker bar to work the bolt back and forth until it broke free, then it tapped right out.

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