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Quote:

Originally Posted by flouese (Post 565827)

Based on what the repair shop told me "oil filter is full of metal chunks", and the engine is seized, I will assume the IMS let go. If that's the case, does this affect any other systems, i.e. transmission or other components. Will I need to do anything besides remove/replace the motor?

No. All the other stuff is separated and the nasty engine stuff can't get in.

However, there is a list of stuff to replace while you're in there. I replaced the water pump, engine mount, spark plug tubes, spark plugs, rear main seal, front main seal. You might consider replacing the O2 sensors, cleaning your MAF sensor, and plenum tubes while they're easy to get to. If your starter was noisy, replace it. If your's is a manual, replace the clutch components and be sure to have the flywheel resurfaced. Clean, clean, clean. You'll never get a better opportunity.

While it's out, replace as many of the coolant hoses as possible. My favorites were the two straight sections that go from the coolant tank through the fire wall manifold and then to the two metal coolant lines. If you get a good fit, use worm drive clamps for this--makes it a lot easier if you ever have to do it again. I reused spring clamps for other areas--specifically around the coolant tank/manifold.

You may need to replace the dipstick tube and the filler hose. Do it, they're cheap and nice to work with as they're not brittle.

Whille it was all out, I rebuilt (clean, grease, new boots) the CV axles. Easy peasy if they're already out.

The fuel line disconnects under the car on the front/left of the engine. The one on the right disconnects on the fuel rail. Electrical connectors in the trunk are a puzzle, but if you stare at them long enough, you can figure out that you need to pull out locking tabs from the sides.

You're gonna learn a lot!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson (Post 565830)

Electrical connectors in the trunk are a puzzle, but if you stare at them long enough, you can figure out that you need to pull out locking tabs from the sides.

+ 1 so true with the P electric connectors... :p

Which motor would be the better most cost effective way to go? Replacing injectors does not appear to be too costly or difficult. Advise is welcome. Heading out to the shop to bring it home and am ready to go with doing something with it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-Boxster-Complete-Engine-Motor-2-5-2-5L-M96-20-Core-Rebuild-LN-Kit/263511185769?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m1438.l2649

or

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-986-Boxster-Complete-Engine-Motor-2-5-2-5L-84k-Miles-M96-20-IMS-UPDATED/263021815320?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid =p2060353.m1438.l2649

I would ask some questions on engine 1, says rebuild in listing, but not in description. Definitely want clarity on that. Engine 2 is definitely cleaner looking. Maybe also look into a fresh rebuild? More $$ but new and shiny with a warranty.