best way to replace outer cv boot?
 

Hi guys,

I noticed a little bit of grease sipping out from one of my outer cv boots (around the clamp) and the rubber itself looks old so it's time for new boots. I caught it early and I have no clunks or other noise from there so I am assuming cv joints are good.

I got 2 boots, 4 clamps and 4 wt. oz. of CV grease (is that enough for both sides) on the way.

I've been trying to figure out what's the best way to replace the outer boots (inner boots were done some time ago). According to pelican parts write up (Porsche Boxster CV Joints and Boot / Axle Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article) there are two ways: drop the wheel bearing carrier or drop the exhaust and sway bar. I would rather not mess with the wheel carrier (I'm SO tired of messing with it after suspension work) but not too keen on the exhaust either (I'm on my 4th exhaust so.. ugh..exhaust work). I am aware that I would need to remove the outer axle nut but that wouldnt be a big deal compared to that wheel bearing carrier.

Considering I have secondary cat delete pipes (your typical Top Speed cheapies, no larger diameter ones) would I still need to remove the exhaust or could I squeeze the shaft out by maybe raising the tranny a bit with a transmission jack?

What do you guys think? Any tips in any of those directions would be welcome from anyone who has done it before.


Thanks in advance,

Cristian

I've done exactly this, with your configuration (2nd bypass). You have to pull the axles: (maybe drop swaybar), skid plate, diagonal truss, and bypass pipes, disconnect axles at tranny (duh), undo wheel nut and tap axle assy inbd and down/out. I had to use a bearing puller on one side to free an axle shaft, hopefully yours isn't frozen in the hub.

Remember to loosen the axle nut BEFORE you start.It is very tight. Search for more.

And replace the axle nut as well. They are 1 time use

Were you able to pull the pipes without loosening up the muffler?

I'm planning to do the work myself at a shop so I will use the airgun to undo the nuts. I did it before not so long ago and both sides came out easy so I'm not too worried.

I'll order some axle nuts as well.. I didnt replace them last time.

i was able to do it by just disconnecting the midpipe at the header and letting it drop a bit (mebbe loosen it at the muffler) and only on the driver side if i recall correctly - no need on the pssgr side. put a jack under the hub and compress the suspension to make it easier.

Ah! that's what I was hoping to hear. I'll give that a shot before I unbolt more.
good tip!

guys just to confirm.. boots and clamps are identical for both inner and outer right? at least that's what I saw when I bought the parts but just want to make sure.

different according to PET. been a while since i did the job so can't confirm.

I did some more research and all boots I can find say:
"Axle Boot (Rear Left Inner, Left or Right Rear Outer Rear Right Inner,)"

so they are the same.

Just finished this job. All4 the same.

gotta love this forum!

how did you tackle it?

How many hours? Mine is torn.

I've done this job in 2 ways (on 2 different cars). On my tip I dropped out the cats and other things in the way, in order to lower the inner joints. These cv joints need to be removed (good time to check them for scoring and repack the grease). Then it's just clip the bands, slide off/on the new boots and clamps, and put it back together, torque to spec.
The 2nd car was done when I changed the rear struts. For this you need to undo the inner suspension arms and will require an alignment afterwards. Use this method only if you are replacing other suspension parts.

You're right, I forgot about compressing the suspension!

I finally tackled it!

I removed the axle nut with an impact gun (thank god), removed the plate under the tranny, removed the bolts where the cat delete pipes meet the first set of cats and twisted the pipes downward. I was able to squeeze out the CV axles with very little effort, same when putting them back in.

Sucky part was when I realized I had to remove the inner boots (which were already replaced a while back) just to slide in the new outer boots. Guess I should have done more research because I was unprepared with not enough grease and clamps. I had to reuse clamps and they didnt go as tight as I needed them.

I had some that are the same style as these from Pelican, virtually the same:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/SuperCat/1044/POR_1044_SUSAXL_pg2.htm


Can anyone recommend some they used and worked well? The small 34mm ones worked but the larger 73mm simply didnt go on tight enough and were spinning on the boot.

Also, if I never see joint grease again it will be too soon!

Dorman has been making split CV boots forever. I remember using them on my VW +/- 40 years ago. I've used them on a Saturn and a Subaru. No need to pull the axle out, disturb the wheel alignment, spending hours of time fighting with frozen joints and high torque nuts.

There has to be a boot in their catalog that would work on our Boxsters. I just sent their tech support an email.

Those split boots are a decent temporary patch but in no way do they really save the axles or last all that long from my experience. If your boot is torn, not only did the grease leak out but dirt likely got in there and the grease that is there is contaminated. The cv needs to be taken apart (use a brass hammer or plastic mallet to pop them to not damage anything) it needs to be cleaned, repacked and use factory style clamps if you want it to stay on tight, the tool to compress them is cheap like $10 on ebay. This is pretty simple and if you are unsure how to do it just watch some youtube videos. One other thing to keep in mind is that you are supposed to replace the axle nut and it is ok to impact them off but they need to be torqued to spec going back on, you can keep the hub from spinning by using the parking brake or just put a screwdriver in the vanes up against the caliper to hold it. Not using proper torque or excessive torque from an impact will cause premature wheel/hub bearing failure that may take a few months or even longer to show up but in extreme cases of over torque it can show up much sooner.

Point taken and I agree. Given that a lot of owners change water pumps, IMS bearings, etc. preemptively, why not CV boots before they crack/split? I hope somebody at Dorman will respond sometime this week.

I've got a pair of Porsche CV clamps (I found them!) I'll take to Napa and find out an equivalent part # and report back .

I just replaced my boots on the driver side and I did not have to touch my exhaust or the skid plate. Just the sway bar and control arm. Not sure what is different about my 2000 S but don't know why those things need to be removed.

It was a bust, all they had were the stainless zip tie slide sort of universal CV Boot Clamp. Of course I had to get the one unhelpful/unfriendly guy that is there, that I always seem to get... So there may be a better match at NAPA but I was unable to find it. At lunch I will slide over to O'reilly and Advance and see what they have. It looks like Dorman might make a compatible one under their "Dorman Help" product line.

You probably have this info already off the old clamp, but the large clamp says 74 OETIKER so maybe that will help identify the right clamp.

It looks like this might be it:

CV Boot Clamp 99951248600 - Oetiker - Porsche - 999-512-486-00 | Pelican Parts

Bummer that the ones you got were too loose, which ones did you get?

Edit: this page has a little more info:

https://www.belmetric.com/oetiker-ear-clamps-large-sizes-c-15_841/cv74-cv-boot-clamp-p-1007.html

I found another thread on here that linked to this thread:

Leaking CV Boots - Repack and Clamp - Articles

Where the author had the same problem with the OEM 74 clamp, and went with another style, but unfortunately it doesn't have a part number...

Edit; following the rabbit hole, it looks like this might be it:

https://www.belmetric.com/cv68-cv-boot-clamp-p-1006.html?zenid=kckcjipsb70epti7ihm7o5p910&cPath=1 5_841

This was the email reply from Dorman tech support. I am going to keep investigating and see if I can come up with something. I need to get under the car, with my calipers, and start measuring.

Good morning, sorry but we can’t search by length, by you can search by inlet and outlet size in the side tabs, under CV boot

Nicholas Paris
Asst. Product Manager/Tech-Line
Dorman Products
215-712-5012-Desk
215-712-5512-Fax
Toll Free 1-800-868-5777 EXT-5012

what I learned so far by trying them:

these are two tight, I couldnt put them on (guess I was hoping for the best since they are 68mm)
https://www.belmetric.com/cv68-cv-boot-clamp-p-1006.html?zenid=kckcjipsb70epti7ihm7o5p910&cPath=1 5_841


these 73mm ones made by Oetiker are too loose:
CV Boot Clamp 99951248600 - Oetiker - Porsche - 999-512-486-00 | Pelican Parts


I went ahead and ordered Porsche genuine ones from Pelican (911-332-257-00-OEM).
Wish I would have done that in the first place :D

A good quality radiator hose clamp works just fine. In fact, I used one to fix a leaking inner joint. There was grease splattered all over the tranny. I thought it was a torn boot but no. The factory clamp had failed. Replaced it with the rad hose clamp and all is well.

I heard the extra weight (although small) of the screw on the hose clamp will affect the axle over time.

I will report back once I install the genuine Porsche ones. 30$ with shipping.. not cheap for 4 pieces of metal but oh well..

Bummer, seems like outer clips would be easier.

CV boot clamps
 

I did this preemptively on my 01 two years ago when I replaced the wheel bearings. With the axles out it is not too bad of a job, worst part is the mess. I purchased all my stuff from Pelican including new lubricant.....except the CV Boot Clamp crimping tool. I purchased this off fleabay and it was totally worthless, the first clamp I tried to crimp the pliers just bent and so into the trash they went. I would up using a large set of diagonal cutters I had that were a cheap knockoff so I dulled them and did the crimping that way. To this day they still hold quite well with zero leaks. I disassembled my inner CV joints and cleaned them with carb cleaner and re lubed them as well as the inner ones......a word of friendly advise....have latex gloves handy and disassemble the inner joints over a cardboard box or something similar...the balls fall out of the race easily and bounce well on a concrete floor.