Yet another locking/alarm issue
 

:confused:So I searched and searched, and see many people have issues with the central locking mechanism. I thought I've narrowed it down to the immobilizer unit (and maybe it still is part of the problem). When I pull the codes, I get the following long list of codes:

Fault memory
49
K lead
48
Airbag signal acknowledged
21
W lead (DME immobilizer)
42
Wrong key or wrong transponder pill
33
Passenger compartment monitoring sensor
23
W lead
47
Control locking synchronization
46
Control locking synchronization
60
Central locking limit position Lock not reached

I'm hoping it's one problem that's cascading onto multiple codes (I know airbag points to driver's side belt buckle, which I'll deal with eventually...)

When I attempt the manual override (quick 3 turns clockwise on driver's side lock), the driver's side locks, but not the passenger side. When I open the passenger side door, the blinkers flash rapidly, which turns off when I unlock the driver's side door and open it. The trunk unlocks every time without a problem. And every time, I hear the gas cap attempting to lock, and reverse itself when I press the lock button on the keyfob.

I'm wondering if in addition to the DME issues, I have door lock mechanism issues on passenger and/or the driver's side?

It's kind of like information overload at the moment. I'm hoping that someone experienced can chime in and see if there is a logical process I can go through to narrow down the problem, before I cry uncle and take it to a shop!

BTW it's 98 base boxster...109K miles.

Sounds like you may have multiple issues. I would start with testing the door latch microswitches. Your passenger door latch is almost certainly bad (codes 46, 47 and 60).

2 things come to mind....

- weak battery ?
- bad ignition switch ?

Just throwing idea here ... not a precise diagnosis.

Good luck

Thanks for the feedback. The windows do drop as they're supposed to, so I suppose it might be the actual lock mechanism...

Ignition switch is new as is the battery, so I think I can rule those out...I'll update this post with resolution for posterity's sake.

The door latch/lock is all one integrated mechanism with 5 switches and 2 motors, so the window dropping only tells you that particular switch is working.

I posted a test procedure in my 3rd party keyless entry DIY thread. ;)

Thanks particlewave! I saw your DIY--pretty impressive!

It sure sounds like then the Pax doorlach/lock needs replacing for sure. I wonder if the whole system is not working as a result of that (i.e. it thinks that something is blocking the passenger lock mechanism so it reverts to the unlocked state). I'll start by replacing that side and will report back!

Thought my driver side door lock went bad because I already replied passenger side. In retrospect I wonder if passenger side was bad because replacing the immobilizer cured the driver's side lock. You might want to inspect immobilizer board before tearing door apart. Mine had obviously been under water more than once.