Thinking of investing in a Quickjack.
 

I've been considering purchasing one of these units. Any other owners out there? I would love to hear your experiences with this lift (good and/or bad). Are the easy to use? Do they provide a sturdy base for working on the car?

I just ordered a Quickjack 7000 w/SUV lift kit based on seeing my 2004 PO's Quickjack 5000 and his positive assessment.

I've been crawling around under cars since the 60s and the QJ looks like just the right tool for me for use on my concrete garage floor. No personal experience yet. Mine will be in late next week. I plan to initially use it for summer/winter tire changes on our s5 cab and Explorer Sport (hence the 7000 vs 5000). If the stability proves ok, I'll move on to under car stuff like oil changes and fixing our 986's loose cat heat shield, etc.

Initially I'll use some backup jack stands until I assess the QJ's overall stability. As always, YMMV so be prudent and be safe. I'll post an update as soon as I have some practical experience.

I had a friend who had one that is similar but uses a drill to raise and lower it. He loved it at first but eventually bought a two post lift. It's nice to have and better than using jacks and jack stands, but I'd suggest you spend just a little more money and buy a 2 or 4 post lift if you have the space in your garage. I bought my barely used 4 post off CL for $1600.

I also have considered buying a garage lift. However I don't have room for a two post. The two I have been looking at are quick jack and ez car lift. The ez car lift is a bit more $$ but seems to be the better overall solution, raises the car a little higher, no hydraulics, simpler use (just use a drill), etc.... I haven't bought either yet but certainly interested in some other opinions. I have been leaning towards the ez car jack.

I spent months looking at all of the options and came to this conclusion: If you have the room, a four or two post lift is a much better solution and only a little bit more money. If you're space constrained then a unit like this is a great way to go. I had the room, so I have a four-post lift.

The only other comment I'll make is that people tend to get lazier over time, so the easier it is to set up and use, the more often it will get used.

I've seen people who use lifts to park another car under it,
Is it safe to leave a car suspended on a lift for months on end?

I have a MaxJax and LOVE it. Easy to install, removable and good for all we do on our cars. I now have the room to have a full height lift but don't see the need.

Another option is to look on CL for a scissor lift. These can be bought used for 500-700$ in my area. If you get the right one, it will have little interference with engine removal. I assume you probably want it for regular service work and not engine removals.

Thanks Woody and Thstone, I would love to go the route of a 2 or 4 post lift but I don't have the clearance overhead in my garage.

I wasn't aware of the MaxJax and will have to do some measurements in the garage. This may be a viable option. Thank you.

I look forward to hearing your assessment. I' also have been working on cars as long as you have and it's getting harder and harder to get up off the concrete. :)

I will have to research this item, thanks for bringing it to my attention.

Thank all, I appreciate your input.
Don

+1 on the Maxjax lift!

I've been looking into this BendPak MDS-6K 6,000 Lb. Capacity, Open Center, Mid-Rise Car Lift | Canada's Exclusive Authorized Dealer for flush mount. I would space wide enough to drop the engine. Disappears when not in use.

I've been looking at lifts for a while myself, and almost got my father sold on going half - half with me on the Maxjax. Portable is what's the selling point so far. Anything I should know about this product from the one's who has already been using this? Thanks in advance!

Randy

I have had a Maxjax since last August (about 7 months now). I am very happy with it. So far I have used it only on my MY98 Boxster. You should insure that your concrete floor has a minimum of 4 inch thickness where you want to mount them. I had exactly 4 inches for a couple of the anchors and about 4.5 inches in the rest. I used anchoring epoxy as well for the drop-in anchors and I haven't detected movement of any of the anchors so far. I did have a problem with one jack that sprung a leak in December, but Maxjax sent me an entire new cylinder to replace it. Very impressed with the customer service! At it's highest setting the bottom of the car sits at 46 inches above the floor, so there is no walking around underneath, so I got one of those shop roll around stools (Big Red) and use it without the pneumatic cylinder and scoot around underneath with no problem.

No issues with the MaxJax after I guess 5 years and lots of lifts. Used on many different cars from '67. Mini to A6 wagon. Never an issue with the concrete or fear it having an issue. We just moved and I installed it into a floor that is didn't know. As a precaution I used anchor expoy on the anchors. You will need 1 tube to do a good job. Follow directions and you are golden.

http://i765.photobucket.com/albums/x...pstbqcyb2a.jpg
It's a good thing these cars aren't that tall

Thank you RodJ and jcslocum, the maxjax has been purchased !

Exited to install and put it to use :cheers:

Good for you!!!

Congrat's! I'm sure that you'll enjoy using it. It should be a big upgrade from jack stands!

has any one thought about or built a pit?
just wondering, i am going one way or the other 2 post / scissor /pit.

my garage is small and i don't want posts in the way max jack

my ceiling is low and i will not have to set up a sunk in floor scissor lift.

pit is cheapest by far but i have never worked in one.

Check your municipal rules as I believe they've been outlawed. From the garage journal...
"Most local councils have banned them due to people having been asphyxiated by oxygen depleting gases that collect in them(Like CO from exhausts)and explosions caused by vapours.
Places that work on heavy equipment generally still have them but most now have forced ventilation."

i don't spend a lot of time worrying about rules and regulations.
(they still exist and are in service in some places)


i have spent 20 plus years working with automotive fumes, gases , and dangers.
i just have never worked in a pit and am wondering how they would work in regards to boxsters.if i had to pull?drop a motor?

Excellent! You won't be disappointed!
Cheers.

Bought the 3550# version ~ 3 years ago and really like it. I could find anything even close for the money. Very study and would buy it again. Also really like the portability and ability to store it.

Just purchased the Quickjack 3500 unit for my garage. I saw a commercial on TV with a $100 off promo code plus free shipping. The lift was on sale and with the promo code the final price was $899.

Don't know how long the promo will last but the code I used was "safe". This promo has been offered a few times since Christmas.

Quickjack 3500,
$1600.00 in canada.

and same height as jack stands.

Quickjack 7000SLX arrived today
 

My Quickjack 7000SLX w/SUV and light truck adapters arrived today. Because everything around here is still under 2+ ft of snow, maybe I'll assemble it this weekend. I'll keep you guys posted.

Here's a pic. It is well packaged and was delivered by Fedex. I did most of the damage to the boxes walking them from one garage to another. Total shipping weight was listed at 295 lbs (4 boxes including the SUV adapters).

http://www.pbase.com/picsbyfw/image/165138826.jpg

Received my Quickjack 7000 and SUV/light truck adapter kit yesterday. Four well packaged boxes arrived undamaged. The 7000 is heavy. Each frame weighs ~91 lbs. Worth it for me because I'll be lifting my Explorer Sport in addition to our s5 cab and our 986.

Tried to post a pic of the packaging I took yesterday (resized to 800x600) by linking to my personal pBase account (which I have had forever), but the forum moderators blocked the post and have not released it even though I sent a PM. I bought the Quickjack from Pelican. It was shipped quickly. Too bad they don't trust me enough to let me post a properly resized, on topic pic to the forum.

So I assume all 3 quick jack models fit under / work with the 986? I only ask since my boxster is still in winter storage and I can't do the measurements they give to do on their website.

my 986's PO confirmed that his 5000 fit. I saw his 5000 but we didn't lift the car. The 7000 has a minimum 3.5" height and its overall length is a little less than 73", so the 7000 physically fits under the car. We just did a quick measurement on our 2004 and it is ~54.5" from jacking centerpoint to jacking centerpoint. Overall tire to tire clearance at the bottom of the rocker panel is a little over 72 inches. Min-max rubber block spread on both the 5000 and 7000 is listed as 31.5" - 60". I measure ~5"+ from the garage floor to the bottom of the jack points. Only question remaining to confirm is relative positioning (in relation to the jack points) of the rubber pads in the lift frame rails. I can't confirm until I actually assemble the 7000 and perform a test lift, but it appears that the 7000 will fit ok. I'll post an update as soon as I perform the test lift.

Looks like a good lift. My concern would be is there enough clearance to drop your motor etc. I've had the Maxjax also since 2010 about a month after purchasing the car. It costs more but over 6.5 years of not taking the car to the Porsche dealer or a independent it has paid for itself several fold. It makes the motor or transmission removal simple. I use a 24. Bike jack and then slowly raise the car off the motor. I believe that would be harder with a jack system that does raise straight up. Those fold down jacks all Raise on an Arc.

Motor and trans out 3 times
Trans alone 3 times
Strut replacement.
Control arms 2 time once standard arms, once GT3 arms and toe-links
Oil and filter about 5 times a year. Every other track weekend at least, and year end.
Exhaust system R&R.
Trailing arms.
Tires before and after every DE and AX.
Brakes before and after every DE since starting to use race pads
Bleeding and flushing brakes. Flushed 2 times a year and bleed before every DE
Cooling system Mods twice.
Power steering Mod.

I agree. IMHO, no way to easily drop the engine with a Quickjack. If you're into full blown maintenance and repair, a two post jack is the way to go. You make an important point about foldowns raising in an arc. Even if ~21" of lift height were enough to clear the engine, the arcing trajectory of the car on a fold down would bring too many alignment and clearance issues (for me anyway).

For my intended use (winter/summer tire changes on 3 cars, oil changes, fixing my loose heat shield, brake jobs, suspension work, periodic inspection, etc., etc.), the Quickjack will be great. I would have went with the QJ 5000 except for the fact that I need to lift my Explo Sport which probably surpasses 5,000 lbs with full fluids and I like to err on the side of caution. The 7000 weighs almost 20 lbs more per frame than the 5000.

My mid rise scissors lift works fine:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P3120033.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P3120032.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d6...t/P3120039.jpg

Another great option for full service maintenance. What's the price range on those?

This is it. It uses 110V power and can be used on most any level concrete surface.

Atlas® TD6MR 6,000 Lbs. Capacity Portable 110 Volt Scissor Lift | GSES

Thanks, only a couple of hundred more than the QJ 7000 with over twice the lift height. Lots of good options out there.

That price also includes the truck adapters.

Yeah, the QJ7000 w/SUV-truck adapters is 1,800 and change unless you can find a rebate.

The QJ was the best choice for my needs, but for more serious wrenchers there are other options in the price range that might be a better fit. Especially if you consider used lifts.

Of course the QJ7000 is overkill if all you need to do is lift a 986 for oil changes, brake jobs, etc. According to the specs a QJ3500 should meet those needs for a lot less money and weight.

During my muscle car days in the late 60s and early 70s I bummed use of a couple of pits at the gas stations where my friends worked. I much prefer working with a lift. Drive over pits do nothing for you if you're doing brake or suspension work, or if you need to remove wheels for component access. IMHO a pit would not be a great assist for Porsche engine removal because you need to support the engine, detach all connections from the car and then either lift the car or lower the engine to remove. Even if you manage to remove the engine, you would need to then hoist it out of the pit.

do these require any special concrete specifications ? besides flat and level.
i just scratched maxjax off my list because i have no idea what my floor psi is and there is no rebar in it.

Get yourself some steel or aluminum plate maybe .500 - .750 thick for the rollers and pivot point to rest/slide on. Will distribute the weight nicely . I do this even with the 6 " + thick pour I did for my scissor lift . I do it mainly to protect the concrete from getting a " wear groove " from the rollers going back and forth . You don't need a full sheet just pieces 6 "- 8 " wide is sufficient x about 40 " long .

the specs say 44 inch of lift, what are they like to work under?
and how are they for moving around for set up / storage?