Help choosing the proper oil for my next change
 

Hi all,

I will be doing an oil change (1997 Boxster) in January, I'm thinking towards the end of the month. The next 5000 miles should take me to about June. I live in the Phoenix area, so I'll have the cold morning startups on the way to work for a couple months and then some hot trips home at the end of the day in May/June.

I know my mechanic used Pennzoil synthetic last time he changed the oil, but I don't know the weight. This time around I'm going to do the oil change myself. Should be fun!

Can you suggest a good brand/weight for my climate? I'm not married to Pennzoil or Mobile-1 or any other, I'm more interested in know what you think would be a good weight. On the heels of this oil change, the following one would likely go from June to October or so. That's the HOT one.

I'd also be curious what you think about the appropriate oil weights for this car. The manual says 0W40 and one other type I think. I can't remember off the top of my head. Maybe the 0W40 would be good for the change in January???

Anyway, over to you guys for your suggestions.

Thanks!!

Another Oil Feud?
 

I have run Mobil 1 0W40 at the Doktor's recommendation for ten years now in my '98. Others are in love with the more expensive oils and will quote all kinds of studies and reports. Porsche says to use Mobil 1 0W40 and it's worked fine for me and the last 100,000 miles. Nothing will start controversy here faster than an oil question or a tire question. I assure you, you're safe in your climate with Mobil 1 0W40. Some will say that the Mobil oil you buy at Walmart is different than that which you buy at a car parts store. I have spoken with the Mobil techs and they assure me there is no difference.
Let the feud begin!

I'd go with whatever weight your owner's manual specifies. The manufacturer usually knows best since it's their engine.

I agree with schnellman on this one.....Mobil 1 0W-40.

Are you gonna go to the track? If not:

4 quarts Mobil 1 5w-50
5 quarts Mobil 1 0w-40

These are fully miscible and have a very similar if not the same additive pack. Good for cold starts and hotter summer days.

If you track:

full fill of Mobil 1 5w50

I've been on Mobil 1 0W40 all this time too. Have had my Boxster for 15 yrs now. Original IMS bearing. Still running like a tiger. Why fix it when it ain't broke?

If you don't use Joe Gibbs Driven DT- 40 5W-40, you probably don't love your car.
I just started using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 in a couple of mine because it works, it's readily available, and its cheap.
My favorite flavor is Castrol Syntec/Edge, but last time I was at the store it was running about $10/qt locally and that just seemed silly.

There's plenty of info on both, including UOAs fresh and at oil change. I chose what I deem as credible info from here, Rennlist, and Bobistheoilguy

I still have Mobil 1 0W-40 in my 01, but if my '99s don't explode in the next 6 months, it will probably get the Rotella too.
Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Oil in a Porsche. :cheers:

+1 on Bob is the Oil Guy website. There is an amazing amount of info there.

Guy at AutoZone said the same thing which made me think, do I need to now pay $35/5 qrt jug instead of $25 ???

Only issues I have experienced with Mobil 1 0-40 is start up noise (2-3 seconds). My car has not been started for a couple weeks now so I'm going to be tightening my sittin checks when I do start it.

With my last change in july (I'm due now for change 3k miles) I started a tiny, tiny drip or 2 from the engine/Trans area. Wonder if 0-40 is to thin for 92k mile seals. Car was bone dry until that change.

Unbelievable, rational thought and reference to valid resources in an oil Thread !
BITOG for Prez.

You guys are hilarious!!

Ok...I'll add this. I do not drive the track and I do notice the start-ups seems to be loud and metallic sounding. It lasts for maybe 2 seconds.

First, is that sound normal for a 1997 Boxster?
Second, can/should the oil change in weight impact that sound (as in lessening it).

Given this, is the general consensus still 0W40 synthetic?

Again and a gain, many thank to everyone here. Good peeps!

I use Joe Gibbs/Driven DT-40

Dt40
 

DT40....DT40......DT40....:cheers:

Now, back to your regularly scheduled program.

There is an interesting challenge implied in these Threads that if we responded directly to, may be useful rather than contentious.
"In what critical specification is recommended oil better for the M96 than JGDT40 or Mobil 1?"
Unfortunately it comes down to faith ,not science.

Hi again,

This is getting confusing now....

I spoke to my mechanic about doing the oil change. He encouraged it, gave me a few pointers and said I should stick with an A40 type oil in either 5W40 or 5W50. He personally uses Total Motor Oil 5W40 for all his clients. He said it has zinc added to the oil and his studies show it improves long term wear. Again, I live in Arizona. I'm not sure how much of an impact that really is...

But he said, if I were you doing my own oil change this weekend, I'd just go get Mobil 1 synthetic in one of those weights and you'll be good.

Ok fine.....

So when I search Amazon for Mobil 1 5W40, I can only find it in the 1 quart packs. Same goes for the 5W50. I guess that's not a huge problem....Same goes for Pennzoil.

The Total Motor oil is twice the price as Mobil 1 and about the same as DT40.

You guys count here....are you still cool with a 5W40 or 5W50 synthetic oil and it NOT be one of the fancy brands?

I run Mobil 1 0w40 or 5w50 synthetic A40, depending on the season. Being in AZ, either 5w40 or 50 is a good choice.

BoomerRoadie,

Have you asked your Porsche dealer what they use when they do oil changes?

I made my decision based on lots of reading of other people's knowledge, internet hype, and a desire not to waste money. It was not because of anything I know or have experienced.
0W oils seem to be more about maximizing mpg and meeting emissions standards rather than protecting engines from wear.
Oil formulations change, so what you read from five years ago about an oil, might not still be correct today. >Have they been changed to benefit the consumer?
Everything that I have read about JGDT40 leads me to believe that it is an excellent choice, but is marketed to a price point above it's value.
I made my choice to use Shell Rotella T6 5W40 based on consistent reviews from people who analyzed it long term and showed good composition and low engine wear. No doubt there are better oils, but it is good and easy for me to acquire.
For you, Boomer', with one Boxster to dump oil in, I choose Castrol Edge 5W-50. :D

If you live in the ridicuously hot parts of AZ, you can move up to the 5W40. If you spend any amount of time in excessively colder areas, stick with the 0W40.

All of the higher priced oils, i.e. Gibbs DT40, Motul ot Total are excellent products. They all have higher levels of Zinc in them that have been proven to be a beneift to the M96 engines. If you can afford them, use them. Some people do an oil flush, prior to upgarding to the pricey stuff first. Check each manufactuer for a suitable flush oil. It is usually a break-in oil. But that adds another oil change and filter to the cost.

If you are on a budget, use the Mobil 1. If you think your engine is suspect, send an oil sample to a testing lab and get an idea whats in your oil now. I use Blackstone. I also use Mobil 1 0W40 from Walmart.

Having typed all that, Release the hounds...:D

Lots of different flavor Kool-Aid to drink....

M1 0W-40 is a factory recommended oil
Walmart sell 5 quart jugs for around $25

I recently on the recommendation of people I know that track their cars and now use Motul 8100 Xcess 5W=40 It also is on the Porsche approved list It run=s around $125 for 20 LITERS on Amazon including shipping. That makes is just slightly more $ than M1. It definitely is better for the stress tracking puts on the engine than M1.

DT-40 is highly recommended on the forums by a specific engine builder and not on the approved list It is about double the $ than the others. Also DT-40 IS NOT recommended for track use

Running oil meant for Diesel engines is not recommended due the that additive package may not be good for our engines

Unless you are in sub freezing temps, 0W -40 has no advantage over 5W-40

Drink what ever kool-aid you like
YMMV

Says who?.......................

May not meet the standard specified for post 2011 engines, but should be good for us.
https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.net/epcblobstorage/GSAP_msds_01360364.PDF
The Truth About Zinc & Motor Oil | Driven Racing Oil
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1481240328.jpg

On a slow night shift, I was all over this stuff. Somehow between all that and a few random forum posts, I was assured that it's not an issue in our 986s.
Edit: Just to be clear, I am not implying that every oil formulated for diesel engines is a good idea. I am specifically referring to Rotella T6 5W-40.

This is a great thread. I'm learning a lot and being totally entertained too!

I did some cost comparison strictly using Amazon prices. Also, I'm only looking at 5W40 type synthetic oils as that is the one I've decided to go with (plus that's what I'm using now, specifically Total Motor Oil)

Best price per quart:
Mobil 1 5W40: $7.98
Castrol Edge: $8.10
Pennzoil Platinum Euro: $7.18
Motul 8100 X-cess: $6.53 (in bigger bulk about $6.00)
Total: $7.00
Shell Rotella: $5.52
DT-40: $10.99

Now barring any dumb math errors (entirely possible) and maybe missing a better deal somewhere on Amazon (I did this quick)...it looks to me like the Total is a pretty good buy when you buy it 15 quarts at a time. Clearly Rotella is the best buy.

The only comment I have about Rotella is that is says its for diesel engines. Was I picking the wrong one? Little confused here. Some say they work on both engines.

Anyway.....

I changed the oil for first time and used Liqui Moly 2332 Leichtlauf High Tech 5-40w $38.90 for 10 qts and noticed a difference in engine sound; quieter. I believe the previous owner used M1 0-40w and noticed a mechanical sound during backing up in my garage at a very slow pace releasing the clutch, but not with Liqui Moly

Mobil 1 is much cheaper if you buy it in 5qt jugs. Usually around $25 for 5qts ($5 per qt).

And if you buy Mobil 1 in Australia, it will only cost you $US75-00 for 5 litres......:mad:
Aint we lucky.....

Castrol Syntec 10w-40 here in NW FL. I usually can get an oil change special a couple times a year at Advance Auto for $32/5 liter incl. a filter (which I use on another of our vehicles).

132k miles. No leaks, no weird noises.

Liqui-Moly 5w40. Buy from NAPA online and pick up in store, discount.

I do the same.

Hey BoomerR, I live in the Phoenix area as well and I have been running Mobil 1 5W-30 year round and my 2000 S runs great on it.

2002 s
 

I have used Mobil 1 in all my cars for many years and never had any problems, so "If it's not broke don't fix it " :cheers:http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1481379691.jpg

Mobile 1 0-40.

No need for a special order oil.

This is a first. An oil thread with no loss of life or serious injuries.

Not true....
 

....I have already killed multiple tequila shots in my oil thread drinking game.

You want the Shell Rotella T6, and yes it is a diesel oil, but it also works fine in gas engines.

Here's a suggestion...

http://www.members.shaw.ca/mtharris/search1.jpg

What kind of helpful result would a search give you?

I have no problem with OP asking The oil question". I would guess that popular answers from 1998 would not be the same as today.

Well, the op is a new member and has asked a couple of questions that have been addressed numerous times in the past. I considered the possibility that he was simply not aware of the search function and have pointed it out with the thought that it may be helpful to him in addressing future issues, if not this one.

Search is no fun.......oil threads are fun :D

Hahaha,

yeah - the marketing guys are in. :D And the believers are also in. :D And now i'm in. :D

Don't use a low SAPS oil.
Only use a full synthetic oil.
Use an oil that has a viscosity that fits to your climate.
Change oil and filter frequently. I would recommend yearly, but that is my opinion.

Brand: i don't care.
Zinc: hahaha, i don't care. I love my catalysators - so no zinc.
Sulfur: i care - strictly a very big no.

I would never use a W30 oil over here in Germany. :D But hey, it's not my engine.
I use 5W 40 or 5W 50.

Mostly i use oil that is made in Germany that has the highest HTHS for the budget.

Porsche has an oil approval called A40. So to me an oil that reaches this standard would be the minimum.

Last time i bought a 20 litre can. It's cheaper – especially if you have more than one car and change the oil frequently. ;)

Regards, Markus

So, not being an expert on oil or engines I had to look up some info to understand the plain english of Markus's post.

HTHS
High Temperature, High Shear
https://www.motul.com/fr/en/community/373?
“Hot viscosity was measured until not very long ago only at 100°C, which is not very representative of the temperatures reached today by most recent engines. It was therefore decided to also measure viscosity at 150°C, and under a high shear rate, so as to really judge the capacity of the lubricant. That is what HTHS (High Temperature, High Shear) viscosity means.
The notion exists of High HTHS and Low HTHS: a Low HTHS oil has a lower viscosity at high temperature (<3.5 mPa.s) than that of a so-called High HTHS oil (>3.5 mPa.s). This notion is important as it allows the classification, on the one hand, of 'energy saving' oils having a low HTHS and, on the other hand, of high protection oils having a high HTHS.“
(I saw that Rotella T6 is 4.0, Mobil 1 0w-40 3.8)

High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) Bulletin | Driven Racing Oil
“Lower HTHS viscosity generally means a thinner oil which can improve fuel economy by reducing the amount of horsepower required to pump it throughout the engine. But a lower HTHS viscosity also usually comes at the expense of wear protection.“

Low SAPS
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2868824
SAPS stands for Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, Sulphur.
Low SAPS basically will show up as lower sulphated ash level on a spec sheet. 1.36 would be full SAPS. 1 would be mid/lower SAPS.
“Lower levels of SAPS are desired in order to protect modern day emissions systems. The way lower SAPS is achieved is typically by reducing the additive levels in the oil.”
“The higher SAPS oils are actually longer lasting due to the higher initial TBN (acid neutralizing ability) of the engine oil. “
From what I have found so far, Rotella T6 is low SAPS, Mobil 1 0W-40 seems to have split this year to Full SAPS and Low SAPS
I'm still not clear on why avoiding this is important.

Mobil 1 product info sheet:
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf
Rotella T6 info:
http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic/_jcr_content/par/textimage_1335213348.stream/1388525673850/2c4570ceb0dcc96c0e045d7d6f3c7796f77a84ed6a3d6752bb 50d245468c48b2/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf

We need more oil threads.