May not meet the standard specified for post 2011 engines, but should be good for us.
https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.net/epcblobstorage/GSAP_msds_01360364.PDF
The Truth About Zinc & Motor Oil | Driven Racing Oil
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shell_Rotella_T
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1481240328.jpg

On a slow night shift, I was all over this stuff. Somehow between all that and a few random forum posts, I was assured that it's not an issue in our 986s.
Edit: Just to be clear, I am not implying that every oil formulated for diesel engines is a good idea. I am specifically referring to Rotella T6 5W-40.

This is a great thread. I'm learning a lot and being totally entertained too!

I did some cost comparison strictly using Amazon prices. Also, I'm only looking at 5W40 type synthetic oils as that is the one I've decided to go with (plus that's what I'm using now, specifically Total Motor Oil)

Best price per quart:
Mobil 1 5W40: $7.98
Castrol Edge: $8.10
Pennzoil Platinum Euro: $7.18
Motul 8100 X-cess: $6.53 (in bigger bulk about $6.00)
Total: $7.00
Shell Rotella: $5.52
DT-40: $10.99

Now barring any dumb math errors (entirely possible) and maybe missing a better deal somewhere on Amazon (I did this quick)...it looks to me like the Total is a pretty good buy when you buy it 15 quarts at a time. Clearly Rotella is the best buy.

The only comment I have about Rotella is that is says its for diesel engines. Was I picking the wrong one? Little confused here. Some say they work on both engines.

Anyway.....

I changed the oil for first time and used Liqui Moly 2332 Leichtlauf High Tech 5-40w $38.90 for 10 qts and noticed a difference in engine sound; quieter. I believe the previous owner used M1 0-40w and noticed a mechanical sound during backing up in my garage at a very slow pace releasing the clutch, but not with Liqui Moly

Mobil 1 is much cheaper if you buy it in 5qt jugs. Usually around $25 for 5qts ($5 per qt).

And if you buy Mobil 1 in Australia, it will only cost you $US75-00 for 5 litres......:mad:
Aint we lucky.....

Castrol Syntec 10w-40 here in NW FL. I usually can get an oil change special a couple times a year at Advance Auto for $32/5 liter incl. a filter (which I use on another of our vehicles).

132k miles. No leaks, no weird noises.

Liqui-Moly 5w40. Buy from NAPA online and pick up in store, discount.

I do the same.

Hey BoomerR, I live in the Phoenix area as well and I have been running Mobil 1 5W-30 year round and my 2000 S runs great on it.

2002 s
 

I have used Mobil 1 in all my cars for many years and never had any problems, so "If it's not broke don't fix it " :cheers:http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1481379691.jpg

Mobile 1 0-40.

No need for a special order oil.

This is a first. An oil thread with no loss of life or serious injuries.

Not true....
 

....I have already killed multiple tequila shots in my oil thread drinking game.

You want the Shell Rotella T6, and yes it is a diesel oil, but it also works fine in gas engines.

Here's a suggestion...

http://www.members.shaw.ca/mtharris/search1.jpg

What kind of helpful result would a search give you?

I have no problem with OP asking The oil question". I would guess that popular answers from 1998 would not be the same as today.

Well, the op is a new member and has asked a couple of questions that have been addressed numerous times in the past. I considered the possibility that he was simply not aware of the search function and have pointed it out with the thought that it may be helpful to him in addressing future issues, if not this one.

Search is no fun.......oil threads are fun :D

Hahaha,

yeah - the marketing guys are in. :D And the believers are also in. :D And now i'm in. :D

Don't use a low SAPS oil.
Only use a full synthetic oil.
Use an oil that has a viscosity that fits to your climate.
Change oil and filter frequently. I would recommend yearly, but that is my opinion.

Brand: i don't care.
Zinc: hahaha, i don't care. I love my catalysators - so no zinc.
Sulfur: i care - strictly a very big no.

I would never use a W30 oil over here in Germany. :D But hey, it's not my engine.
I use 5W 40 or 5W 50.

Mostly i use oil that is made in Germany that has the highest HTHS for the budget.

Porsche has an oil approval called A40. So to me an oil that reaches this standard would be the minimum.

Last time i bought a 20 litre can. It's cheaper – especially if you have more than one car and change the oil frequently. ;)

Regards, Markus

So, not being an expert on oil or engines I had to look up some info to understand the plain english of Markus's post.

HTHS
High Temperature, High Shear
https://www.motul.com/fr/en/community/373?
“Hot viscosity was measured until not very long ago only at 100°C, which is not very representative of the temperatures reached today by most recent engines. It was therefore decided to also measure viscosity at 150°C, and under a high shear rate, so as to really judge the capacity of the lubricant. That is what HTHS (High Temperature, High Shear) viscosity means.
The notion exists of High HTHS and Low HTHS: a Low HTHS oil has a lower viscosity at high temperature (<3.5 mPa.s) than that of a so-called High HTHS oil (>3.5 mPa.s). This notion is important as it allows the classification, on the one hand, of 'energy saving' oils having a low HTHS and, on the other hand, of high protection oils having a high HTHS.“
(I saw that Rotella T6 is 4.0, Mobil 1 0w-40 3.8)

High Temperature High Shear (HTHS) Bulletin | Driven Racing Oil
“Lower HTHS viscosity generally means a thinner oil which can improve fuel economy by reducing the amount of horsepower required to pump it throughout the engine. But a lower HTHS viscosity also usually comes at the expense of wear protection.“

Low SAPS
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2868824
SAPS stands for Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous, Sulphur.
Low SAPS basically will show up as lower sulphated ash level on a spec sheet. 1.36 would be full SAPS. 1 would be mid/lower SAPS.
“Lower levels of SAPS are desired in order to protect modern day emissions systems. The way lower SAPS is achieved is typically by reducing the additive levels in the oil.”
“The higher SAPS oils are actually longer lasting due to the higher initial TBN (acid neutralizing ability) of the engine oil. “
From what I have found so far, Rotella T6 is low SAPS, Mobil 1 0W-40 seems to have split this year to Full SAPS and Low SAPS
I'm still not clear on why avoiding this is important.

Mobil 1 product info sheet:
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide-2016.pdf
Rotella T6 info:
http://rotella.shell.com/products/t6-full-synthetic/_jcr_content/par/textimage_1335213348.stream/1388525673850/2c4570ceb0dcc96c0e045d7d6f3c7796f77a84ed6a3d6752bb 50d245468c48b2/rotella-t6-brochure.pdf

We need more oil threads.