Don't buy another car
 

I bought the continental snow tires and threw them on my 18" boxster S wheels and ran all winter here in chi town no problem! better than my old cherokee and blazer! I also have a soft top and that wasn't in issue, car came with a heater :) the car wasn't terrible with the high perf tires but I wanted more security so I say get the tires......plus the money saved will eventually go to 19" classics in my case.....invest in the car you love.....don't invest in something to get you from A to B......you bought the box to drive it.....


2005 Boxster Carrera White

Frankly I try to avoid the freeways when sand is applied. (especially C-470) But the car came with a Porsche mask and I use it on occasion in the Winter/Spring to avoid chips. I guess I have been lucky as I really haven't picked up too many so far. I've only done a couple "touch-ups" on the front. The other menace out here are the legions of gravel trucks spraying the roadways with stones! I hate those guys!

Too many ... A4 Avant, Spec Miata, Beetle (1970), Suzuki SV650, Triumph Thruxton, ....

I know, I need vehicular 12-step.

Happyzero, what's the scoop with Pelican Parts ?

PM me if you don't want to post...

Winter calls for AUDI Quattro. Of course since I can't bring myself to drive the Porsche daily I only get it our for night drives and for weekend trips. So the AUDI is the work horse, a marvelous work horse.

I think you guys talked me into an Audi Quattro. Sounds like a nice winter ride, like the AWD, and it looks like I can pick up a ten year old one in good condition with 100k + miles for around $5k. Thanks for the advice !

Nick

Some of the guys with more contemporary Audi's will chime in, but in my experience in the 90s with a 4000s, an older Audi is an expensive Audi.

I have done PPI's on quite a few early 90's quattro's, and all of them have needed quite a bit of work. All of them have had leaking PS racks, among other significant oil leaks. Then they usually need the obvious things like new bushings, brakes, etc. Make sure you really look one over before you buy. These were all cars in the $5k range. I would say most of them need about 750-1000 just in parts, then the labor to put stuff in. If you can find one in good shape that has been well taken care of, then they can be really good cars...until something breaks. Man I hate working on Audi's, lol.

00 Jetta VR6 daily Driver. Intake, Exhaust, Projector headlights with HID conversion, Kamei Grill, Eibach Springs, Audi TT Wheels and various other bits.

98 Talon TSi, way too many mods to list. 424whp 371ft/lbs of torque. Basically fully built motor by me, T3//T4 50trim turbo, front mount, 9:1 Wiseco pistons, eagle rods, balanced rotating assembly, Comp cams, 6 bolt 1g bottom end, 2g head with trick port work, sheet metal intake manifold etc etc..

02 Honda CBR600 - Crashed this which sucks, these pictures are pre crash. Devil Highmount CF Exhaust, Dual headlight conversion, Perelli Diablo Super Corsa track tires. Other monor mods for track racing.

95 VW GTi VR6, just for fun. Full NX direct port nitrous system 75-150hp shot availability (yes ran 150whp shots with race gas 117octane VP) and lots of other crap.

986Jim, cool pics !

Thanks for the heads up on the Audi's and potential problems. The Boxster will still be my primary driver, I will only leave it in the garage if it is snowing or if there is salt on the road, but I will be sure to have the Audi thoroughly checked out prior to purchase...

Just remember, cars are meant to be driven.

Most cars, especially older/used cars, don't like to sit for 9 months out of the year. The ones that sit tend to develop more problems than those that get used regularly. Whatever you get, you should think about giving it a good drive at least once per week (10 to 20 miles minimum). Starting it up and driving it around the block isn't sufficient to get the fluids moving and keep everything lubricated and the battery charged. It needs to be driven at normal operating temperature for a while to keep it happy. :)

Otherwise, when the snow falls, and you go to drive your snow car, you might find it is a little grumpy from being ignored for 9 months. ;)

Aluminum can't rust you know?..... :rolleyes:

creseida, sound advice. Before the Box I had a 924S ( daily driver ) and Jeep Cherokee ( winter ). When I got the 924 I ignored the Jeep and first snow fall sure enough a. battery was dead on the Jeep and b. tires were very low. Driving the rear wheel drive front engine 924 in the snow was something I never want to try again !!!

tqtran, not so much worried about the rust, more worried about sliding with non-winter tires and cleaning the salt crud off my black paint... I know it probably won't hurt it but black is hard enough to keep looking nice in the summer :)

Mine has 2 wheels :D

BMW K1200RS

...no snow here, no hail here, no cold so...

http://www.ducatimonster.org/smf/ind...id=10512;image

Unfortunately, this doesn't do me any good in the winter either :

My other car (until I sell it) is a supercharged VW R32 (AWD). Great in the snow, although we don't get very much in Portland.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/ef084346.jpg

My other car is a loaner Hyundai from the dealership. :D

Oh I also have this still:

http://www.loamy.com/pics/snowy.jpg

Sorry eslai had to laugh at your GST hahaha. j/K!!!

:D that's what everyone says until I pass them on the track. Most of the suspension bits have been totally modified by a reknown DSM and race expert (John Mueller's a good friend of mine). It's pretty surprising how neutral the handling is. Nothing like a RWD car of course, but even now it amazes me when I drive it around. Totally different kind of beast than the Boxster!