Just ordered me some DT40
 

While it may look expensive it is really the same price as Royal Purple....this is my winter oil change so we will see

Did you take advantage of the deal from RND ?

Uuuhhhhh
 

I guess not, this was 12 quarts shipped for $129 free shipping

This will also be a chance to see what my magnetic oil filter housing picked up (I hope nothing)

I use it....
 

....and the sale price wasn't any better than the price on Amazon.

I've done three oil changes with the DT40 since I got the car back from Jake and Flat 6 Innovations where they fitted the "IMS Solution".

As part of the deal, I agree to only use DT40.

Fine with me, not really any more expensive than Motul 8100.

Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.

After a 5,000 mile trip to Colorado and back from my Louisiana home in my 2004 SE, she only dropped one quart. And that was crossing multiple 10,000 foot passes and lots of hard throttle under load at altitude.

One nice thing about the DT40, which you should change every 3,000, by the way, is that you can hear when you need to change the oil. When the oil is fresh and clean, the lifters and cam chain tensioners are quiet on cold start. When you hit 4,000 miles on the oil, you will hear "Click & Clack, the Tappet Brothers" while they pump up.

That's a friendly reminder to change the oil.

My old 1993 Miata was the same way, I knew when it was time to change the oil because I could hear the lifters pump up on startup.

My magnetic plug has been spotless so far. Again, three changes, and 13,500 miles since the IMS Solution install and the other items I had R&R'd while Jake was in there.

DT40: Better living through chemistry!:cheers:

Motul 8100 is about 1/2 the cost of DT 40

~$123 for 20 liters on amazon

Well.......
 

.....okay, so the Motul is a lot cheaper.

I'll take American engineered specifically for our cars oil at twice the price.

Cheaper than a blown engine.

Don't forget the 200-400 mile flush with BR30 first. Now it's not cheaper than RP. Oh well.

I don't think that is a good selling point, losing it's lubricating effectiveness after only 3-5k miles

I hate these posts but...
 

Unless you track/AX hard or often, as long as you change your oil religiously every 3k miles it really does not matter as long as you use a good grade oil. If it buys you peace of mind then use DT40. If you prefer to invest your money in something else then do that. Either is really ok.

That's pretty much true

IIRC, DT 40 is not recommended for use in racing.
I know many that use Motul 8100 in their race cars. From what I have been told, it has superior high temp sheer. Basically it continues to lubricate at higher temperatures

Does anyone have any empirical data that shows DT 40 is superior other than what a specific person has said?

As far as needing oil between changes, my car rarely needs more than a few oz's between oil changes and that has been true with M 1 as well as Motul which I switched to earlier this year

Is this really necessary ?

I just drive my car 3K miles per year and never at a track

All depends on what flavor of kool-aid you drink

When you drain the oil, not all of it comes out and God forbid you mix another oil with DT40

The reason given to use BR30 is to flush out all the inferior oil left in the engine:rolleyes:

^^^ What he said!

God forbid you mix another oil with DT40
 

Really , I just do not see this as the DT40 cannot be that different for a pleasure car than any other high grade full synthetic. I do not want to drop 100 bucks on break in oil just to change to another brand of oil......how much different can the break in oil be from the DT40....looks like DT40 may have been a terrible choice in oils

OK guys, cool your jets.

Switching to DT40 from another oil you have two choices: Do a "belt and suspenders" pre flush to remove every trace of the old oil, or just do a simple oil change and switch to the DT40.

We have many customers using the DT40, myself included, and none of the cars were pre flushed. To date, all of the UOA's look excellent.

And you really do not need to change your oil every 3K miles, 5K is just fine.

Just ordered me some DT40
 

Is it safe to assume that you are basing the 5000 miles advice on personal experience backed with lab analysis?

Received an email from LN advising that if one buys a case of DT40 they will provide free oil analysis with that purchase. If analyzing your oil is in your future, this lowers the price of the DT40 a bit.

I would say safe, except I would change it from personal experience to professional experience as JFP has done thousands of oil changes for his Porsche customers and hundreds (thousands?) of UOA.

Also he is saying 5K miles (5000 miles) vs 5000 km.

That said I changed my DT40 every 6 months/3,000 miles for the couple years I used it and always had a good UOA, even on the first one where I did not flush (previous fill Castrol Edge 5W40). If they made an XP9 that had a drain interval greater than 750 miles I would have switched to that since I am doing mostly track but with the drive to/from that equated to a full oil change each track weekend.

Now I am using Millers Nano 5W40, I am getting ready to do my first UOA and see how it did. That oil can (supposedly) stand up to the heat and stress of track use, and has a longer lived additive package, that should allow me to get back to a 3,000+ mileage interval while still holding up to track use, and this longer life should offset the higher cost of the oil. We'll see :) I have one more track event this weekend and then it is UOA time :)

Gee thanks Steve!
Introducing yet another oil, one that is even more $ than DT40 LOL
In looking at the specs, it is very similar to Motul 8100, with Motul maybe being slightly better spec, if I am reading them correctly.

In any case, looks like a very good oil

https://www.motul.com/system/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/52/original/8100_X-cess_5W-40_(GB).pdf?1458898826

CFS 5W40 NT - $19.95 : Performance Racing Oils - Millers Oils

And would agree that flushing the oil is a waste of $$. It really only matters to what a UOA says

It makes the others look cheap! It is an expensive kool aid for sure.

Yes to both.

Mobil 1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40
 

Or any porsche approved oil you can buy at Walmart where they have the best prices. In my opinion, paying that much for oil for DT40 is a waste of money. I have it in my car only because the former owner just changed it for me before I bought it.

Oil
 

What do you use?

If I was just street driving in my Boxster, I would buy the Castrol 0W40 from Walmart and change it every 5,000 miles or every 6 months - I really like Castrol and run it in all my other vehicles.

Just called L&N @ 815-472-2939

Said I was thinking about changing from Mobile1 to DT 40 5-40. He asked me about my car & engine. Here were my questions.
1. Would I need to do a flush with BR 40? He said not needed just change filter and get a good drain.
2. What is the recommended oil change interval? He said 5K or 6 months if you drive less than 5K a year. Some people change at 3K and if you like you could but really wasn’t a need.

Then called Driven Racing Oils @ 855-565-5650
Asked question # 1 and he suggested I speak with Scott in the technical development lab.

So, I asked Scott question 1 His answerer was the following.
“I am very familiar with the chemical structure of Mobile1. Being than DT & Mobile1 have the same base oil it is not a problem to change oil at an oil change. He said I can tell you how this comes about. If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.

Second question oil change interval? We recommend 5K for normal mixed street driving. If you driving is more at highway speeds and you wanted to extend beyond the 5K you could but wouldn’t go more than 7k.

Asked if I had any more questions and I not at this time and I appreciate him taking the time to help me make an informed decision. He said that’s why we’re here and call back if you have more questions.

Gotta love oil threads!

Thanks Jeff
 

That is what I though as well. I will be changing this weekend hopefully. This will be my winter change and will probably have less than 2K miles when I do my summer change in April.

Oil Thread fun times....
 

......I'm bored tonight, so I'll post more and keep this baby rolling. :):):)


Like I posted earlier, FWIW, I bought my 2004 Boxster S used, with 25,000 miles on her. I have no idea what oil the previous owner used. I have all of her service records, however, and she had EVERYTHING done at a Porsche dealership. So, I guess she was filled with Mobil 1.

I found the car in Chattanooga and drove her to my Louisiana home.

I immediately shipped the car to Jake at Flat 6 Innovations for the "IMS Solution" and other preventative maintenance.

I got the car back and she was filled with DT40.

I've put 13,500 miles on her since switching to DT40.

She went 5,000 miles, dropping only ONE quart on a vacation drive to Colorado with LOTS of WFO throttle up mountain passes crossing 10,000 feet multiple times.

The car is super strong, and the rings appear pretty freaking oil tight.

So, that's my experience, FWIW, YMMV, Yada, Yada..........




http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1480559502.jpg

Really??????

Jay,

I truly appreciate you quoting me, maybe next time you could be more careful on the edit.

You referenced I called L&N and next was the response that was said from Driven and omitted the L&N response.


Here is the Driven response, cut & paste no edit.

“”Then called Driven Racing Oils @ 855-565-5650
Asked question # 1 and he suggested I speak with Scott in the technical development lab.
So, I asked Scott question 1 His answerer was the following.

“I am very familiar with the chemical structure of Mobile1. Being than DT & Mobile1 have the same base oil it is not a problem to change oil at an oil change. He said I can tell you how this comes about. If you change from an Esther based oil like Red-Line to Mobil1 or DT you would need to do a flush. If you do this without a flush you will get 40% decrease in Horse Power due the leakage on the Ring Seals and then folks think this oil stinks I’m going back to Red-Line.””

I have read about going from Mobil1to DT40 on several forums finding conflicting information. So I called L&N and DT40’s manufacture Driven to move beyond the conflicting info and Driven who should know if their oil needs a flush. According to Driven from Mobil1 to DT40 no flush required.

Thanks for a good laugh before going to bed.

I fat fingered the quote, sorry
fixed it

The point I was making is them saying you would get a 40% reduction in HP if you didn't flush first if certain oils were in there because the ring seals would leak

sounds like BS to me.
Of course, I could be wrong

BTW, on LN website they say
"LN Engineering, aside from offering many products and services for both aircooled and watercooled Porsche models, devotes considerable resources to continued research and development, and most recently, partnering with Raby Engine Development again to develop Porsche-model specific lubricants.*"
"*For Porsche approved lubricant we use and recommend Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40."

See for yourself
http://lnengineering.com/products/lubricants/joe-gibbs-racing-dt40-full-synthetic-5w40-european-sports-car-oil-12-quarts.html

and further
WHICH MOTOR OIL DO I (CHARLES NAVARRO) USE?
For cars under warranty, we use primarily Motul 8100 X-Cess 5w40, which is still a mid-SAPS oil with higher Zn and P levels than the low or no-SAPS oils favored by manufacturers for emissions system protection. Both used oil analysis and physical engine teardowns have proven this lubricant to be a superior choice to Mobil 1. Although we are still fans of Brad Penn, outside of warranty, we recommend Joe Gibbs Racing lubricants due to how closely they have worked with Flat 6 Innovations and us in developing their oils for use in Porsche models.

http://lnengineering.com/resources/2014/02/28/frequently-asked-questions-about-motor-oils/

Here is a recent VOA for the DT40. As you can see, it is NOT a high ZDDP oil. About the same as Mobil 0W40. I've tried DT40 in two different Porsches, my 2006 987S and my 2014 991S. The results via multiple UOAs were just fine....but no better than Mobil 0W40. And worse than Red Line 5W40 in the case for my Boxster.

Since I was looking for a better result (than M1 0W40) I switched to the Mobil 5W50 that is Porsche A40 approved. I've had the best results so far with this oil, and have been using it for over 6 years now (and about 80,000 combined miles). Very easy to find now at Napa Auto Parts (on sale recently for about $6/quart).

Mobil 0W40 is a good oil. DT40 is slightly better. Mobil 5W50 is slightly better, again.

Can you please post your most recent UOA from your car on the DT40? Thanks.

Great picture! I love driving in CO. I drove my very first Porsche in CO back in about 2004. An Artic Silver Boxster just like yours. Been Porsche hooked since. I plan to drive my 911 in CO in mid-2017 on my way home from Porsche Parade Salt Lake City.

I tend to go to great lengths to stay out of oil threads, as they usually lead to lead to arguments rather than resolution.

At the moment, I am not at my shop, so I do not have access to our data files; and as we live in a litigious society, and I happen to do business in a litigious state, I cannot publish any UOA's without the owner's written permission as they own the results, not my shop.

That said, Jake answered many specific questions about various UOA results on DT40 in a very long post over on Rennlist late last year that covered not only test results, but variations in testing labs data qualtiy, and even the impact of "cross pollination (not doing a flush before using DT40) Makes interesting reading: UOA with DT40 and a question or two. - Rennlist Discussion Forums

And, as I am sure you will note in reading his posts, nothing much got resolved there either.

I think you misunderstand my question. I'm only asking to see YOUR recent UOA. Not some random customer of your shop.

And as I noted above, I am not currently at my shop, and will not be for the next several days, so I cannot access that information. But to keep the dialog moving, I did provide a link to similar information.

No rush. Please post next week. Thanks.

Below is a copy of my Blackstone report for the last six years on the Boxster. I switched to DT40 in of January 2014 after 13 years of using Mobil One so the last two results are based on DT40 usage. However, I did not flush prior to the first fill.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps6bgtehk0.jpg

I've used DT40 since I bought my car at 90K. Didn't do a flush because I was told the base oil between the Mobil 1 and the DT40 is the same. I drive about 70+ miles a day, a signifigant potion of that time at 80+ mph on a toll road.

<a href="http://s8.photobucket.com/user/dandtpaul/media/DT40%20oil%20data%20142k.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a11/dandtpaul/DT40%20oil%20data%20142k.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo DT40 oil data 142k.jpg"/></a>