I found that AutoZone actually has a set of Triple Square bits for $15 but they are named stupidly as "OEM 12 point bits".

I confirmed that they are actually Triple Square and will pick them up this evening.

Its been over 100F every day for the last 2 weeks so I'm not too eager to lay under the car for hours.

I have so far put the car up on Jackstands, removed the diagonal braces, pans, heat shields, mufflers and am working on unbolting the drive shafts next.

I'm following the 101Boxster Projects instructions which neatly lists out the proper order to do these things for the best access.

Once I have the transmission out I will be able to see what I need exactly, if its just the clutch or if I need a new flywheel as well.

100F... ouch lollll

Electric fans on both side, place a solid item under the car for ur safety, drink water, a lot ;)

Luck

Probably not a bad idea to replace the flywheel while you are in there

I'm doing this right now.... Lift? You don't need a lift lol. Out of every car I've worked on, the boxster is the easiest to drop the transmission. Hardest part was the exhaust bracket, because its soo close to the exhaust itself. After that was out, the rest came out within 10 minutes tops. Trans and all. A single Tripple Square bolt, 16 Allen head on the axles and the remaining bolts on the transmission and two motor mounts, simple! And the flat spot before the "Fin" under the transmission is the best spot to jack up.... Its completely level here. I did the entire job by myself within 30 minutes tops. Transmission came out and that was that.

I'm honestly shocked on how easy it is to work on a Porsche. I've built race cars, maintained everyday cars. I'm service manager at one of the largest parts stores in the country. And this is by far the funnest and easiest car to work on. I almost want to drop the motor, just to experience it.

We did a clutch and found it interesting last fall. Here is our thread on getting the Box back on the road:

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/59015-1st-boxster-7th-porsche-we-now-have-4-family.html

The clutch info begins around post #14.

Transmission bolts are slightly loosened except for the XZN M10 triple square, which is awaiting its stubby driver from Amazon.

When I went back to autozone those OEM 12 points were gone and seeing how much torque to other bolts took to break free I though the stubby driver was a much better idea rather than risk a fouled bolt.

I'm wondering if I can just remove the rear 4 transmission bracket bolts or do I have to remove the entire rear transmission mounts as well?

I guess since the thing needs to slide back probably need to remove the entire trany mount?

Yup, the full black bracket needs to come off. Right and left sides.

I got the transmission off with little fuss, although I did not get the balance point on the jack right so lowering the tranny to the ground was not that gracefull and some pieces of wood on the ground helped ease it onto the ground as I lowered the jack all the way down.

Putting it back up will be easier as I can balance the tranny before hand on the jack.

I'll make a note of that balance point for the benefit of other six speed manual folks who are doing the same. I also find myself going back to my own threads to see what I have done when starting to reassemble stuff or take things apart a second time.

I found that my clutch material is about 1/8" on each side think just clearing the rivets that hold the material to the disk. I have not seen a new clutch disk yet but I'd say that its probably reached end of life.

The clutch lever bearing seems to be in fine shape and I'm not sure whether its better to just replace it anyway or not now that things are opened up.
Opinions?

I noticed that the clutch housing levers were a bit more pressed in or deformed on one side, so a new clutch will take care of that piece as well.

I also need to figure out what the test procedure is to test the Dual Mass Flywheel to see if its still OK. Then I can order the parts.

Overall, some would rate this as a challenging DIY, but honestly it was quite easy and as long as you keep track of the order and location of all the nuts/bolts, I put them in baggies and labeled the bag, its really no big deal. I could see how doing this in the future would only take 3-4 hrs now that I know the process and don't have to wait on the special stubby XZN M10 driver.

I am also going to be able to shoot some lithium grease into the starter bearing/gear as I had a noisy disengagement squeal on occasion and hopefully that will be resolved as well.

I can also see the IMS cover and after blowing out the dust a bit I should be able to tell conclusively if I have the dual or single row bearing.

Notice the extended flange on the deeper single row and absence of it on the shallower dual row below.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1471875769.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1471875806.jpg

That disc looks new!!!!!

The back side had a bit more material that the front.

The front just barely cleared the rivet heads.

How thick is it when new?

Mine looks like about 1/8" thick on tranny side and 3/16" on the flywheel side.

Yeah, that isn't good. It's quite hard to see that in the pics but 1 side does look quote thin. Time for a new disc...

Yes, time for a new disc, new pressure plate, new throw out bearing (with the plastic guide where the bearing rides).

Also, you should closely inspect the fork lever for metal fatigue since you mentioned that some of the fingers are more worn than others...

jb,
You mentioned wanting to test the DMF. The rotational free-play test is easily done incorrectly. Following are some links to help you.
Be careful removing it - very heavy!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pgBxOOTKxMI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aPxTbz3XwS4

Way, way, way over complicated. Porsche released a TSB on this very subject:

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psxevcaf9f.jpg

http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/...psp7xebpp5.jpg

Takes about 1 min. to do, does not require a ton of special equipment.

The fork lever is the newer style, quite thick metal. I took it out, pressure washed it and inspected it. Looks like new.

Good stuff Gelbster and JFP, I like easy testing and understanding the DMF's function and how it works...cool.

DMF noises seem to be the most obvious clue of a worn out DMF without taking anything apart. Good to know.
Mine is quiet so we will see how the test turns out.

Glebster, you must have a Yellow Boxster based on your username?

My kit came with a longer pivot stud. Don't use it. You want the shorter one. Now mine grabs half way or more up. Used to grab much lower. And I have a creek. Have to pull trans again.

Using the Porsche test procedure that JFP showed us, my DMF was within spec as described.

I locked the flywheel for this test but honestly that was not necessary as you just use a bit of hand pressure to do the test and the compression/friction is enough to restrain the flywheel for this test. Super easy, no tools required.

Ordered a new clutch from rock auto that includes the clutch cover, clutch plate and throwout bearing.

Also from pelican the clutch alignment tool that you use to line the clutch up when putting the cover back on and new clutch cover bolts.

Now I'll have to start gathering all the torque values for putting everything back together while waiting on the parts.

Timco, I'm not replacing the Pivot Pin as it looks brand new and no noticeable wear. Where/What kit did you get?
That is a good note for others to beware, probably should let the seller know as well so they get the right Pivot Pin in the kit for your model/yr.

I also had a thought since the transmission is out siting on a furniture dolly it might be a good time to top up/replace any manual transmission fluids there might be?
Is there any or is it lifetime grease or oil?

"I also had a thought since the transmission is out siting on a furniture dolly it might be a good time to top up/replace any manual transmission fluids there might be?
Is there any or is it lifetime grease or oil?"

There is a manual transmission oil that is gets replaced at the 90K service. It takes a little less than 3 liters.

I bought Porsche magic gear oil (~$30 liter) as I figured I'd never have to do it again.

No, there is no "lifetime" product. Buy your gear oil from Porsche only as they use a unique specification product that is made for them, no one else has a direct substitute. You should also plan on servicing the trans every 40-50K miles, like other lubricant service intervals, the gear box oil is too long.

While you have the car apart, it would be a good time to put a 2 1/4 diameter hole in the triangular plate for future trans service without taking anything apart. The plate is soft aluminum, so a decent hole saw (we got ours from Amazon) will make quick work of it. Be sure to hold the plate up under the trans and mark where to put the hole as it is off center a bit.

Ah, valuable info there JFP, thanks, I better get that oil in before my clutch arrives.
I'm having Boxster driving withdrawl symptoms and if I keep trying to drive my Wrangler like the Boxster something is going to break. :o