![]() |
i LOVE the long lists!! :)
Markus is the man! you guys have been extremely helpful and honestly if i was doing this on my own with no advice i would have went down the wrong path, i almost did. good or bad an advice is an idea to shake around in your head and in times like these you always need that. as you can see i am always asking :D |
Quote:
|
Don't break into the AC system. The engine can be removed with the AC compressor remaining in the car.
|
hi guys,
while the engine is on its way i bought the following parts to go with it: LN ENGINEERING Intermediate Shaft Bearing Update Kit 1 GENUINE PORSCHE Crankshaft Seal (Flywheel) 85 X 105 X 11 mm 1 BERU Spark Plug - Bosch FGR-6-KQE (7413), Beru 14 FGR-6 KQU, NGK BKR6EKUB 6 GENUINE PORSCHE Spark Plug Tube $ 6 GENUINE PORSCHE Coolant / Antifreeze - Genuine Porsche (1 Gallon) 2 ARROWHEAD Distilled Water (1 Gallon) 3 MAHLE Air Filter 1 WAHLER Thermostat with Cover and Gasket 1 BEHR HELLA SERVICE Engine Oil Cooler (S VERSION) 1 VICTOR REINZ O-Ring for Oil Cooler (35 X 4 mm) 2 VICTOR REINZ O-Ring for Oil Cooler (26 X 3 mm) 2 ELRING KLINGER Gasket - Exhaust Manifold to Catalytic Converter 2 ELRING KLINGER Gasket - Exhaust Manifold to Head 2 I already have: Oil + Filter more coolant Water pump and gasket accessories belt brake fluid to do a flush i will also: wrap cat bypass pipes in Heatshield armor - Steved0x is hooking me up! what a guy! :) Use the AOS from the old engine (has 15.000 miles on it) Use the MAF from the old engine (brand new) flush and refil transmission with better fluid inspect and clean throttle body Thanks to Markus i've also put together a list of things for my mechanic to check. thanks again Markus! :cheers: I am skipping on upgrading the headers for now, i dont have time to do research and i need to save some money somewhere. i do however want to put a lighter flywheel. Can someone recommend a decent brand? i found this aluminium one on warehouse33 website for 825$!!! holy moly that is expensive!! https://www.warehouse33auto.com/parts/search/2/2000/1044/21/0/5348/0 is there a better deal out there? also, would i need a different clutch kit with it? my clutch has 17k miles on it and i'm pretty sure it's going to be good, i dont do dumps or anything that would wear it prematurely. am i missing anything major on my list? damn i miss the thing! i've been driving around in a eco boost fusion and i am about to die of boredom at the wheel. back in Europe this was called the Mondeo and in manual with a NA engine it wasnt too bad back then. thanks in advance, Cristian |
7000$ later.. Boxster is back tearing the roads! i guess that's a realistic figure not the 4000$ i was hoping for initially. a guy can dream right? :D
for that price i got an almost brand new engine with only 20,000 miles on it and it looked brand spanking new inside and out. fells a lot quicker too and smooth as butter. guess the old one lost a few ponies along the way, no surprise there. all of the above mentioned parts were put on it with the addition of a new flywheel at the tune of another 700$ (mine was toast) and some transmission mounts (mine were leaking) and a few other knick knacks. My mechanic had to do a lot more work that he was hoping for but he went over everything and drive train wise it should not need anything major for a good while so i feel it was a good investment and the best part.. i have my Boxster back! it took half of mile of driving when i picked it up to forget all about the money and it right away put a smile on my face :) at the end of the day i made the right decision to fix it up and most importantly to replace not rebuild and that decision i owe to the excellent advice on here. you guys are awesome and in hard times like these the forum proves to be the best resource. :cheers: when my mechanic pulled the filter again there was A LOT more metal and plastic so we were both very happy we didnt go the rebuild path, it would have cost a lot more. the DOF IMS bearing was intact so it was something else that failed. he didnt crack the case yet but he will. so far i'm going with hydraulic cam adjuster failure which sent it out of timing but when we'll know for sure i'll update. at this point i am just happy to have it back and enjoy all the power the new engine is making. with everything revised and drive train more tight it feels REALLY good. next step is to patch up my struts with used ones from Woody which hopefully will hold me a year or so until i can recover financially and finally put a sport suspension or coilovers. yes i still have a 130,000 miles Boxster that is not worth too much on the market but since i am planning on keeping it it's worth more to me and my personal enjoyment and you can't put a price on that! :cool: |
Awesome, glad you are back on the road!!!!
|
Glad to hear! Where else are you going to get that kind of performance for $7000? It's nice to know that your car will live on with a successful heart transplant :cheers:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk |
Quote:
|
Glad to hear it's back on the road and hopefully it will give you many many many more years of service. What are you doing with the bad motor? I know someone looking for a complete set of exhaust valves.
|
thanks Woody! i have no place to store the old engine so i left it with my mechanic with the understanding that i can get any part from it i would need. not entirely sure but i think some of the valves might have been a bit burnt, it was in pretty bad shape.
|
alright so i never got around to posting the photos of "the horror.. the horrrooorr!!!!" that was in my old engine. boy it wasnt pretty..
i think the previous owner might have missed an oil change or two? or he was a big ignorant about what was put in his car. kinda weird because the car has full service history at a reputable Porsche shop. maybe he just didnt do it at least once a year and let the oil sit in the car for two long. sludge galore in the oil pan: http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psex7csdmr.jpg http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...ps661h7drq.jpg this is the bearing on the rod for cylinder 6: http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psgginhkkj.jpg http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5xa7y5n.jpg Number 3 was a bit bad too and was about to go and the rest looked fine http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psh15eykyg.jpg http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4kobjzae.jpg dear old crank wasnt doing too hot either: http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...pszacrf7ec.jpg and would you say i needed a new tensioner pad: http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...pstbzmvzk9.jpg since i had the car i did regular oil changes every 5000 miles, i think i'll start doing them every 3000 miles on the new engine, cheap insurance. the car never ran low on oil but the oil was at the end of its life when it happened. my mechanic says design inherited vibration from the transmission being farther away from the crank puts a lot of pressure on cylinders closer to it. that ruined the bearing and the crank shaft and if i wouldnt have stopped driving the car the rods were about to go next. what do you guys think? |
All times are GMT -8. The time now is 08:07 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2025 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Pelican Parts Website