Hello CrisZenithBlue,

i think the idea is not to have a list what should be replaced. The idea is more what should be checked and replaced if it's out of specs.

That is why i said you can only do an estimate if the engine is disassembled and everything is measured and given an opinion of.

Has to be checked:
- hydraulic lifters
- all plastic chain ramps (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- all chains (length)
- IMS bearing, IMS tube and everything connected to the IMS
- Vario cam system
- valves, valve springs, valve seats, cylinder heads
- sparks (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- spark cables
- ignition coils (in general it makes sense to replace them all)
- cylinders (roundness has to be checked also also if the coating has be harmed by metal). If they are not 100% round you have to decide what to do.
- pistons (roundness, marks)
- piston rings
- rod bearings
- crankshaft bearings
- if oil is in the cooling system, the complete system has to be cleaned and it is better to replace radiators, hoses and the air / oil cooler, because oil eats rubber
- all engine parts have to be washed, cleaned and checked
- all connectors and hoses
- AOS; makes sense to replace
- all filters, oils and coolants
- sealings must all be replaced, and a lot of rods and screws must also be replaced
- clutch and dual mass flywheel has to be checked
- also it is useful to check oil pump, water pump, generator, climate compressor, starter…
…

The list is even longer and i'm shure i forgot something. Before you have a complete diagnosis you can't say what to do.

In general: everything that has caused the problem must be replaced. Everything that is worn out of specs should be replaced.

I you are looking for a replacement engine, what makes shure that this engine hadn't major problems before?

Not an easy decision. Hope that helps.

Regards, Markus

A proper clean out is essential, preferably using and ultra sonic system. I would pull your current engine and look it over before making any decision. And who you select to do your engine is critical, a lot of shops claim they can, but that is not always the case.

not an easy decision for sure Markus. i really appreciate you taking the time to write this up!
i didnt have any oil in the coolant, level was exactly the same so i might save myself some headaches there.

i'm still a bit on the fence about a rebuild, sounds like a lot of things that could be overlooked and end up causing problems down the road. i guess it comes down to the mechanic doing a thorough job and me agreeing to replace whatever is needed.

used engine is a gamble but so could a rebuild.

good point! one way or the other it needs to come out and for some extra labor the mechanic could look it over and make a decision from there.

Good 2.7L here in the classifieds. Cellkid22 sounds like he is willing to accept any reasonable offer and ship. Probably better than a rebuild from what I have read of your situation.
http://986forum.com/forums/boxster-parts-sale-wanted/61971-2001-2-7-engine-21k-ready-drop.html#post500357

yeah i've been having my eyes on that. i'm about to take that off his hands i think it's my best bet at this point.

will update soon.

Here's a thought. If no magnetic particles are found in the oil filter, save a bundle and simply replace the variocams (used, they are wicked expensive new) cam to cam chains, ramps and tensioners if your feeling spendy. Drop the pan and use a wet vac to suction out the bottom of the block where the oil drains out of the heads, trash collects there. Then button it up and drive it. You have an oil filter. It always works unless the oil is thick enough in winter to push through the bypass. You live in a warmer clime and it is summer. The absolute worst thing that can happen is your engine could fail, and you are assuming that it has failed already. Your engine does not appear to be toast and you don't need to drop a bundle unless you want to. If you do want to drop a bundle, go with a newer engine, upsize dramatically, you won't regret it. As a bonus all the snooty S owners will covet your car if you drop in a 3.4 liter. :)

James - he has metallic particles in his oil filter housing. They may not be magnetic, but metal all the same which will be the deciding factor....

All that ground up aluminum just keeps a good polish on the iron and steel parts. Not to worry. :D

Jamesp, you should bump and update us on your rebuild and IMS fix. Great info for people with engine failures who might DIY. The threads have drifted to obscurity.

http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-guides/49562-engine-removal-rebuild-re-installaion-2.html

some of the particles were metallic some looked like copper.

i've decided to go with a used 2.7l so i bought a 21k miles engine from Cellkid and it's gonna be on its way soon.

need some more advice while that is being shipped. this is a great time to do some upgrades and preventive maintenance on it so here's what i'm thinking:
- buy a new S model oil cooler (wont touch a used one that might come from a blown engine)
- new WP that i already have (stocking up on parts) and regular thermostat (that i already have)
- will grab the AOS from my engine, it had 15k miles on it so i dont feel i need to replace it now
- Vertex IMS bearing (they are close to me and i can get a good price on one)
- i have TopSpeed cat delete pipes and Fister exhaust. why not add some aftermarket headers while at it and make a bit more power. can anyone recommend a cheap-ish set that will also delete the primary cats but wont leave a CEL on? not fabspeed though.. i know those are way too expensive. i'm in FL so no emissions test woohoo!
- i just put a new MAF on my old engine so will pull that from it
- new stock air filter
- new plugs and tubes (engine is old in years so plastic is probably brittle)
- should i also get new coil pack? maybe at 21k miles they wont be bad but still.. plastic and age
- was thinking of getting a lighter flywheel and make it a bit more revvy.. what do you guys think? what's a good brand/clutch set?


what else should i keep in mind? i dont want to go to crazy and murder the piggy bank but it's a good time to make small improvements.

thanks in advance,

Cristian

While they are not yet installed it would be a good time to wrap them or use something like Heatshield armor to keep the extra heat from the mid pipes away from your inner CV Boots. If not, especially on a track day, you will put a lot of heat into the inner boots which may overheat the grease and cause it to sling out and also cause premature failure of the boot. The stock secondary cats have shielding which is lost when you take the cat out. I had some grease coming out of my driver side axle vent hole, pulled the axles and added some more grease, added some shielding, and the problem resolved, no more slinging grease.

At first I tried to install header wrap with the pipes installed on the car, and it was terrible. So I gave up on that, and used heatshield armor (I actually have enough left over to do 3-4 more cars). That was pretty easy to do in place. You can see it in this picture when I had the wheel off:

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1466689395.jpg



If you decide to wrap, while the pipes are off the car is the time to do it... I saw some videos where they soaked the wrap in warm water before starting which seemed to make it look like it would be easier...

great tip Steve! thanks a lot i will definitely do that.

i will be reaching out to you regarding the suspension later, i plan on putting the new engine in and testing it for a while before i throw more money at it so i will just fix my busted shock with some a used front pair from Woody and run it like that until i feel comfortable with the replacement engine.

Why would you go through all the trouble of rebuilding the engine just to put a vertex bearing in? I'd seriously consider going with something proven like the ln bearing or the ims solution.

vertex no good? :D
i thought it was proven.

Hello CrisZenithBlue,

i'm not that IMSB discussion, because i have made my own opinion.

Before you write a big list of what you might need as big fun updates i would recommend to get the old engine and transmission out of the car and inspect the car.

There might be also worn clutch, worn DMF, old axle boots, britteling hoses, britteling harness and so on. If the engine and transmission is out of the car it's a good time to check and decide if you need to replace.

New replacement engine. The main question for me is how long did it sit unused. If it has sit unused for a longer time and wasn't prepared for sitting, than there might be some more things to do.

In general:
- Wiring harness must be checked.
- Ignition cables must be checked.
- Alternator, water pump, thermostate, AC… must be checked.
- AC has to be evacuated before you pull the engine and has to be filled after installation.
- You should check the water condensators and AC condensators – debree, dirt, leakage.
- AC dryer cartridge should be replaced.
- Would pull off valve covers and inspect the hydros.
- Would replace chain ramps of the Vario Cam system.
- Check all chain tensioners.
- Would check gaskets for leaks.
- Would replace the gaskets o-rings of the air/oil cooler.
- Sparks need to be replaced anyway.
- Coil packs should be replaced if they have visible cracks.
- Throttle body should be inspected and cleaned.
- All filters should be replaced.
- Motor oil must be replaced.
- Coolant must be replaced.
- Transmission oil can / should be replaced.
- Exhaust gaskets have to be checked.
- Manifold gaskets have to be replaced.
- Brake system and clutch has to be bleeded.
…

Regards, Markus

Markus, you remind me of a German guy here at our club, who also has a Porsche 996. Before each and every drive-out: he MUST check tire pressure, fluid levels, and goes as far as testing his car's hazard lights. Saw him with a check list in his hand a few time also, whatever is on that list I've never had the balls to ask but can imagine lolll. Funny chap.

The only thing I don't like about him is he thinks we are all idiots and incompetents for not doing basic checks on such an important asset - as he does.

this is getting printed and put in front of the mechanic :)

thanks Markus!

also, i'll buy an LN bearing.

Sorry, you are all fine guys. But CrisZenithBlue asked the question and i tried to answer. If it wasn't helpful i'm sorry.

Maybe i should not write would, must or should next time.

Regards, Markus

Proven by whom? I seriously doubt they have over 20K successful installs on the road........

Carry on Markus, nothing wrong. Just reminded me of this chap who of course, like yourself gracefully help others the best he can.

All left to do now is pulling a list of small improvements for Chris to-do while the other jobs are being carried out

i LOVE the long lists!! :)
Markus is the man!

you guys have been extremely helpful and honestly if i was doing this on my own with no advice i would have went down the wrong path, i almost did.
good or bad an advice is an idea to shake around in your head and in times like these you always need that. as you can see i am always asking :D

Markus, no worries, it's guys like you that the rest of us are thankful for in times like this. Your lists are valuable in these situations, keep the suggestions coming :cheers:

Don't break into the AC system. The engine can be removed with the AC compressor remaining in the car.

hi guys,

while the engine is on its way i bought the following parts to go with it:

LN ENGINEERING Intermediate Shaft Bearing Update Kit
1
GENUINE PORSCHE Crankshaft Seal (Flywheel) 85 X 105 X 11 mm
1
BERU Spark Plug - Bosch FGR-6-KQE (7413), Beru 14 FGR-6 KQU, NGK BKR6EKUB
6
GENUINE PORSCHE Spark Plug Tube $
6
GENUINE PORSCHE Coolant / Antifreeze - Genuine Porsche (1 Gallon)
2
ARROWHEAD Distilled Water (1 Gallon)
3
MAHLE Air Filter
1
WAHLER Thermostat with Cover and Gasket
1
BEHR HELLA SERVICE Engine Oil Cooler (S VERSION)
1
VICTOR REINZ O-Ring for Oil Cooler (35 X 4 mm)
2
VICTOR REINZ O-Ring for Oil Cooler (26 X 3 mm)
2
ELRING KLINGER Gasket - Exhaust Manifold to Catalytic Converter
2
ELRING KLINGER Gasket - Exhaust Manifold to Head
2


I already have:
Oil + Filter
more coolant
Water pump and gasket
accessories belt
brake fluid to do a flush

i will also:
wrap cat bypass pipes in Heatshield armor - Steved0x is hooking me up! what a guy! :)
Use the AOS from the old engine (has 15.000 miles on it)
Use the MAF from the old engine (brand new)
flush and refil transmission with better fluid
inspect and clean throttle body


Thanks to Markus i've also put together a list of things for my mechanic to check. thanks again Markus! :cheers:


I am skipping on upgrading the headers for now, i dont have time to do research and i need to save some money somewhere.

i do however want to put a lighter flywheel. Can someone recommend a decent brand? i found this aluminium one on warehouse33 website for 825$!!! holy moly that is expensive!!

https://www.warehouse33auto.com/parts/search/2/2000/1044/21/0/5348/0

is there a better deal out there?
also, would i need a different clutch kit with it? my clutch has 17k miles on it and i'm pretty sure it's going to be good, i dont do dumps or anything that would wear it prematurely.


am i missing anything major on my list?

damn i miss the thing! i've been driving around in a eco boost fusion and i am about to die of boredom at the wheel. back in Europe this was called the Mondeo and in manual with a NA engine it wasnt too bad back then.

thanks in advance,

Cristian

7000$ later.. Boxster is back tearing the roads! i guess that's a realistic figure not the 4000$ i was hoping for initially. a guy can dream right? :D

for that price i got an almost brand new engine with only 20,000 miles on it and it looked brand spanking new inside and out. fells a lot quicker too and smooth as butter. guess the old one lost a few ponies along the way, no surprise there.

all of the above mentioned parts were put on it with the addition of a new flywheel at the tune of another 700$ (mine was toast) and some transmission mounts (mine were leaking) and a few other knick knacks. My mechanic had to do a lot more work that he was hoping for but he went over everything and drive train wise it should not need anything major for a good while so i feel it was a good investment and the best part.. i have my Boxster back! it took half of mile of driving when i picked it up to forget all about the money and it right away put a smile on my face :)

at the end of the day i made the right decision to fix it up and most importantly to replace not rebuild and that decision i owe to the excellent advice on here. you guys are awesome and in hard times like these the forum proves to be the best resource. :cheers:

when my mechanic pulled the filter again there was A LOT more metal and plastic so we were both very happy we didnt go the rebuild path, it would have cost a lot more.
the DOF IMS bearing was intact so it was something else that failed. he didnt crack the case yet but he will. so far i'm going with hydraulic cam adjuster failure which sent it out of timing but when we'll know for sure i'll update.


at this point i am just happy to have it back and enjoy all the power the new engine is making. with everything revised and drive train more tight it feels REALLY good.

next step is to patch up my struts with used ones from Woody which hopefully will hold me a year or so until i can recover financially and finally put a sport suspension or coilovers.

yes i still have a 130,000 miles Boxster that is not worth too much on the market but since i am planning on keeping it it's worth more to me and my personal enjoyment and you can't put a price on that! :cool:

Awesome, glad you are back on the road!!!!

Glad to hear! Where else are you going to get that kind of performance for $7000? It's nice to know that your car will live on with a successful heart transplant :cheers:

thank you sir! your armorshield looks nice on my cat delete pipes protecting the cv joints by the way ;)

yeap! little warrior this one! it will keep my permagrin nice and healthy for a long time to come! :D

Amen Cris- congrats on getting it back on the road and persevering through the unfortunate engine failure...still waiting to meet up with you and batshapedheart!

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

thanks man! yeah we definitely need to meet up! i'll be out of town next week but when i get back we're gonna look you up. you're gonna make our cars look bad with your new paint job :)

Glad to hear it's back on the road and hopefully it will give you many many many more years of service. What are you doing with the bad motor? I know someone looking for a complete set of exhaust valves.

thanks Woody! i have no place to store the old engine so i left it with my mechanic with the understanding that i can get any part from it i would need. not entirely sure but i think some of the valves might have been a bit burnt, it was in pretty bad shape.

alright so i never got around to posting the photos of "the horror.. the horrrooorr!!!!" that was in my old engine. boy it wasnt pretty..

i think the previous owner might have missed an oil change or two? or he was a big ignorant about what was put in his car. kinda weird because the car has full service history at a reputable Porsche shop. maybe he just didnt do it at least once a year and let the oil sit in the car for two long.

sludge galore in the oil pan:

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psex7csdmr.jpg

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...ps661h7drq.jpg


this is the bearing on the rod for cylinder 6:

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psgginhkkj.jpg

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psj5xa7y5n.jpg


Number 3 was a bit bad too and was about to go and the rest looked fine

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...psh15eykyg.jpg

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4kobjzae.jpg


dear old crank wasnt doing too hot either:

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...pszacrf7ec.jpg

and would you say i needed a new tensioner pad:

http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/...pstbzmvzk9.jpg


since i had the car i did regular oil changes every 5000 miles, i think i'll start doing them every 3000 miles on the new engine, cheap insurance. the car never ran low on oil but the oil was at the end of its life when it happened.

my mechanic says design inherited vibration from the transmission being farther away from the crank puts a lot of pressure on cylinders closer to it. that ruined the bearing and the crank shaft and if i wouldnt have stopped driving the car the rods were about to go next.

what do you guys think?