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Old 03-23-2016, 10:27 AM   #1
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Microswitch or regulator?

I know this has been covered before and I did read a lot but I still need an opinion.

Passenger window does not drop down with handle (both outside and inside). I does drop down when I put my top down. If I push on the window it will go down a few inches, the other one (drivers side) does not. This makes me think it could be a regulator cable? Thank you everyone in advance

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Old 03-23-2016, 12:33 PM   #2
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sounds like slack in the regulator cables. when you use the handle it drops just a bit to clear the seal, when you put the top down it drops a few inches so that would explain the symptoms.

but the bottom line is, if you push down on the window and it goes down a bit, that indicates slack in the cable.

lookup the 5$ bike cable fix on the forum or get a new regulator for around 150$. Dont buy used, it's a bit of a pain to replace it if it breaks again.
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Old 03-23-2016, 11:08 PM   #3
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I did the temporary fix on mine (passenger), didn't last too long. Picked up a used regulator from Woody (itsnotanova) and it's been peachy since. Funny, the passenger regulator on my mom's 987 went out with the same issue. Also being repaired with a used reg from Woody.
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Old 03-24-2016, 04:49 AM   #4
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Not a particularly hard job to do. Even making adjustments to the glass was pretty easy with the bolts accessible from the bottom of the door.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:08 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by CrisZenithBlue View Post
sounds like slack in the regulator cables. when you use the handle it drops just a bit to clear the seal, when you put the top down it drops a few inches so that would explain the symptoms.

but the bottom line is, if you push down on the window and it goes down a bit, that indicates slack in the cable.

lookup the 5$ bike cable fix on the forum or get a new regulator for around 150$. Dont buy used, it's a bit of a pain to replace it if it breaks again.
When I use the handles it does not drop down at all, just when I put the top down, do you think regulator is still a problem?

I did find a regulator for $54,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Passengers-Front-Power-Window-Lift-Regulator-Porsche-911-Boxster-Aftermarket-/391412377784?fits=Year%3A2001%7CMake%3APorsche%7CM odel%3ABoxster&hash=item5b21fee8b8:goQAAOSwoudW8Wdw&vxp=mtr

Last edited by liquidimports84; 03-24-2016 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:40 AM   #6
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I had this issue a few months back. I did not replace the regulator. The only thing I replaced was the door lock mechanism which has the microswitch in it. This fixed the problem for me.
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Old 03-24-2016, 06:47 AM   #7
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I had this issue a few months back. I did not replace the regulator. The only thing I replaced was the door lock mechanism which has the microswitch in it. This fixed the problem for me.
Thank you for the info, did your window go down a few inches if you pushed on it as well?

Last edited by liquidimports84; 03-24-2016 at 06:52 AM.
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:07 AM   #8
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It's the regulator.

The change in drop length is small so you notice it when you pull the handle. When you open the convertible top, you just don't see it b/c it's hard to notice a 1/10" difference or so.
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Old 03-24-2016, 07:51 AM   #9
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I had the same issue and fixed it last week. I also had an issue with the latch assembly as it was improperly reading the status of the latch and lock.

I replaced the regulator, which was a pretty straightforward. Had I had the bike cable part, I wouldn't have hesitated to give it a try, but I had a good used regulator so I just used that one.

I wasn't too excited about buying a new latch and thought I would give a shot at finding and repairing the problem. There is a small circuit board inside the latch with a couple of microswitches, as well as a micro switch clipped onto the mechanism. The internal switches tested out fine, but there were cold solder joints on connector pins, which I cleaned and resoldered. The switch on the outside door handle tested out fine. The external microswitch had a few tenths of an Ohm more resistance than the rest, so I carefully disassembled it, cleaned the internal switch contacts and added a dab of Stabilant 22 "contact enhancer". Now the resistance on that switch reads lower than the rest. I think the root of the issue was the solder joints on the circuit board in the latch assembly, but the external microswitch could also have created an issue at some point as well. The alarm system is happy once again!

For what it is worth, I had borrowed a PST-2 and found that there were codes in the alarm module for the door switches in the passenger door, and by watching the status of the signals at the latch it was apparent which switch(es) I needed to look at. All in all, finding the source of my alarm problem took just a few minutes. A Durametric tool may also have the functionality to provide the same information. Without the diagnostic tools, troubleshooting the alarm system would have been very difficult.

While I was there I also cleaned out some broken glass, and repaired the vapor barrier that was obviously damaged by the glass installer who decided to cut around the air bag and not vacuum out all the glass when the window was replaced at some point. I really hate having to go back and fix things that someone was too lazy or careless to do the right way the first time.

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Last edited by Qmulus; 03-24-2016 at 08:02 AM.
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