I'm heading to the dealer this afternoon to pick the car up and pay them $342 for the $15K estimate. Will start ordering parts and get moving on it. Looking forward to this. In 97, I did a ground up restoration to my 66 912. Looked forward to going out to the garage and working on it. A labor of love.
Thanks for the encouragement, I'm sure you'll see a ton of newbie questions in the very near future.

Put a dry-erase board in the garage. List projects. (A war board)

Car up on stands, start wrenching. You'll be done faster than you know.

I would ask for a discount on the 342!! That is a joke.

I guess you can do all this stuff if you've done the 912. I also have a 8'66 912 3 gauge car and love it. So simple in comparison...

Our Box is also Arena Red, is that you color too?? We just bought it for less than you and have been doing a mechanical refresh before getting it on the road as my daughters DD.

http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/59015-1st-boxster-7th-porsche-we-now-have-4-family.html

OMFG, That is F#&^ing RIDICULOUS.

Make sure you kick 'em in the balls before you leave.

What did they actually fix? Phone won't open attachments.

Pay for just an estimate?

Bad english
 

All you guys that used the word "Dealer" is using very bad English. The word is Stealer not Dealer LOL. :cheers:

Timco,

I paid for the privilege of bringing it to the dealer "Stealer" so they can tell me what needs to be repaired. I priced out the parts on the "failed" items and it comes to less than $700. If you add up their cost to repair the "failed" items it comes to about $6,700. $6K in labor in my opinion is a wee bit high!

I wouldn't be too hard on the dealer. For what it's worth a full diagnostic by a trained Porsche tech is not a bad value. Although I definitely did not pay $350. I think it was no more than $150. When my car hit ~60K miles (if memory serves) I brought it to the top dealer perhaps in the whole North East (Ray Catena Porsche, Aston Martin, Mercedes, Lexus, Jaguar, bla bla). I made the appointment to wait on site while the young tech went through the car top to bottom. Meanwhile I sat in what has to be the nicest lounge of any hotel or car dealer within 30 miles. Free lunch, internet kiosks, pool table, giant plasma on the wall. After a couple of hours the service manager dressed very professionally came out with a report that included the expected longevity of all the major gear, a true 50 point inspection. It even said which of my coil packs needed to be replaced. He of course did not try to sell me on doing a single repair because Jay Leno's or Dave Letterman's new McLaren SLR was sitting 20 feet away and they don't need my stinkin money. :D I think the estimate was also about equal to the car's value at the time...which translates to about 30% of what my indy ended up charging for most of those repairs. But my indy is way too busy restoring old air-cooled cars (the ultimate recession proof business) to be doing these kinds of inspections. But at least I had a heads up on things my Indy would eventually be informing of later and played a role in deciding whether to keep the car or switch over to a newer car. I thanked the dealer receptionist lady for the free buffet lunch and went on my way. I think they even washed my car.

Dude,
They're including a free car wash? What's your probem?

It is a $25 value!

The saga continues. I drove the car in and had to have it towed home. The car started right up, but died seconds later. The quote from the service tech for the car quitting was "Idle stabilizer is sticking in different positions. Found no gasket on Idle air stabilizer. Found idle stabilizer stuck in closed position and plastic housing is cracked".

Not sure where the idle stabilizer is located, to pissed off to look it up in the projects book. Is this a DIY project to replace this part? Planning on starting to eat away at the issues this weekend...

BTW, the dealer did refund my diagnostic fee since I had to have the car towed out of their parking lot.

It's right on the side of the throttle body, held with 2 screws. Not certain this is the cause of a non running condition tho. Have to see what others say and give it a think.

Is this the same as the MAF?

No. TPS is on side of throttle body. You can disconnect MAF to see if it changes anything. Clean it if needed.

Is this what I need?http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1446424287.jpg

The thing with the label on the right side. That's the whole throttle body assembly.

Possibly need to establish correct terminology before proceeding. It appears you have a 99 with the cable throttle. This style throttle body has an IACV (idle air control valve) I believe this is what the tech is calling idle stabilizer?? JFP might confirm. If this is cracked and installed with no gasket it may be the problem and is easily replaced. It is the black device on the right side of your throttle body picture. No need to replace TB. Hope this helps.

The MAF is on the drivers side more towards the air box. It lives in the pipe that goes to the throttle body and has a few wires going to it. That pic is of a throttle body. I would not buy a MAF used, but I would clean the one you have.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...s_med/Pic2.jpg

This is where the MAF is located.

http://www.gospecracing.com/images/maflocation.jpg

Mine was held in by special security torx screws.

Can anyone provide a picture or diagram of how the clutch hydraulic fluid line runs from the master to slave cylinder? Apparently, IAW the dealer, mine is routed incorrectly (see attached PDF in first post) and rubbing against the suspension. replacing the master and slave cylinders this weekend and want to route the line correctly.

Any assistance is appreciated. Thanks

The flex line? That goes from the body to the slave?

What requires re-routing is the length of pipe from the union under the car near the drivers side door to the slave cylinder to include the "flex pipe".