Most Overpriced Part?
 

What do you think is the most overpriced part on the Boxsters?

I was just looking at buying a spare set of spin-locks to easily transfer my hardtop between my Boxsters. A set runs a little over $100 at Pelican and up to $150+ on eBay.
The tech article at Pelican says " These four parts might qualify for the most overpriced Porsche parts on the car."

I think that's close, but I recently (grudgingly) bought some clear headlight corner pieces and I'm pretty sure that they win the "most overpriced part" award, averaging well over $50 each for a small piece of plastic that doesn't really hold up well to long term weather and UV.

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My vote is the grilles for the front bumper, if I remember the 2 corner pieces are about 240.00 each and the center radiator piece for the S is 225.00. Way overpriced. I just replaced my air oil separator and it was only 130.00, that's a good deal.

I agree with the headlight corners. Absurd pricing. I finally found my replacement from a forum member for $10.

anything for a porsche is overpriced.

Anything from the dealer. I would like to say it was a Porsche thing, but it seems all dealers over price no matter the manufacturer. I bought a dodge cummins with no keys and the dealer said it would be $3000 for a complete set. Went to the local pick-n-pull and found everything I needed for $40.

The special wheel center cap removal tool for $42.50. Way more than the allen wrench you already own.

The only part that I cringed when I saw it's price was the 987 engine mount isolators. A small 8mm thick piece of rubber with a few holes punched into it and it cost $30.00 ! AND you need 2! :eek:

Rings. Should be about $100 to $150 for for all six pistons. They run about $200 per piston.

Those headlight corners are absolutely ridiculous. When i needed to replace one that had fallen off, I remember when someone said they're overpriced, I was thinking maybe $20 each. Then, much to my surprise......

How about Porsche special tooling:

RMS tool at $650

Thermostat extraction tool at $125 (you can buy the same tool from LN for $15 or make your own for about $1).

Vacuum cooling system filling tool at $850, or buy it from Amazon for $115 without the Porsche logo.

PIWIS at $20K lease for the first year, and it doesn't even include everything the dealer version does.

I was shocked by the coolant expansion tank cost...and the labor involved in getting it in. I think it was about $800 at the Indy all said and done (I had no time to tackle it, jury's out on the skills).

Most cars that's a sub-50 buck trip to the auto parts store and 10 minutes in your garage!

Have to agree with the center wheel cap removal tool.

However, I would like to suggest the Hardtop Install Kit for Honorable Mention. It consists of two little inserts and two small hardened flat head allen screws. It can be had from Suncoast for $95.00. If you get the Porsche Approved kit/version, (I believe it includes a ball end t-handled allen wrench) it is just shy of $200.00 plus shipping.

The irksome thing about the spinlocks for the hardtop is that Porsche could have just put them in every car as it went through the assembly line for probably like $3 per car. Maybe it would have even been cheaper for them overall to put them on every car instead of having to add them just to the cars getting hardtops. Official Porsche antifreeze has to be up there too!

I nominate the roll bar wind deflectors. At $150 each, that's pretty pricey for some plastic with holes in it that some punk's gonna steal the next time you leave your top down.


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Why is an OEM ignition switch $40 but the same thing from VW is $8?

Ford water pump = $79.

Porsche water pump = $450.

On a cost/mile basis, it's the water pump hands down.

I had to replace one of the bolts that holds the rear suspension carrier to the chassis. $45. It's an unusual shape, but it's still just a 6" bolt.

Velco strap that holds the speedster humps down. At the time I got them, they were about $50/pair. I got them at Sunset Porsche for $30.
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Nice. Is there a Porsche logo on the back side that I am just not seeing?

$650 or so, part only, is way high for an IMS bearing. :/

1 lower transmission oil drain plug: 13 euros (14.32 USD) at the stealership.

1 DZUS screw for catalytic converter shields: 9 euros (10 USD) at the stealership. But you also need the other part that holds the screw. It's 3 euros at the stealership.

All these parts are penny goods.

Regards, Markus

How about OEM windshield wiper blades? Apparently you can't just buy the rubber inserts, you need to buy the whole metal wiper and blade at $80/pair (CDN) at the dealership.

Over priced
 

Front fender liner $189 and if you look at them long enough they tear.
And the winner Plastic interior top wind shield frame cover (986555059023AW) at $455.72 is it made from gold :barf:

AC/heater box: OEM $600; Porsche $1800 last I looked

Everything Porsche is overpriced if it is a dealer only item, only way price comes down is if aftermarket companies get involved...

I've seen a lot of horribly over priced things but a few that come to mind...

2002 Porsche 996 convertible ABS pump - $4400 shipped. because Bosch doesn't make available the $30 sensor that was bad on it.

Porsche 993 convertible door seals... the little ones that go behind the windows and attach to the convertible top, yeah those little guys are about $450 each from Porsche~

Wheel bearings can be bought for about $5-$7 each and retail for over $70 each.

Many axles are available out there which cost less then $70-80, retail is like $900 each~


If you think that stuff is over priced try getting some early 911 S stuff or basic early 65 parts... A good set of Solex carburetors from a 65-66 911 will cost in excess of $10,000. I had a customer who just paid over $35,000 for a fresh/restored 1967 911 S motor~ YIKES!

Convertible top seal @ $1350

1 lug nut from dealer $27.99 ... I nearly passed out

There's a set of old 911 seats on ebay for ... 15 000$ ! they look good... but not THAT good ^^

The weather stripping on the front, sides and rear of the convert top. In-frickin-sane. $700 at pelican parts for just one side??? If anyone knows where I can get generic seals (I'm about to replace the top), PLEASE let me know. Top replacement is $600 (with glass and defroster) and the seal set is triple that.

I want to replace them all while I'm there as I have a leak with at least one of the worn seals. The window doesn't press against the seal enough to keep the rain out (while parked) as the seal has gone a bit flat. I'm not a fan of having to redo my carpet after it getting soaked. :troll:

I believe you can adjust the camber of the window and perhaps improve the seal you're having trouble with. Search through threads here on replacing your window regulator. Not that you need to replace the regulator, but adjusting the window angle and seal are discussed. Might keep the rain out without a full seal replacement.

Yes, the window regulator was replaced right before I bought it, which is where I think the issue started. It's like a shim is missing or something. It's a bit too high in the front and too low in the rear of the window. I was wondering why it smelled a bit moldy in the winter. The water would evaporate quickly in the 3/4 of a year Texas summer and only start stinking when it was the rare cold month.
Right now, the top is stuck closed, so I have to fix that first but this looks to be a great deal for the top:
Porsche Boxster 1997 02 Convertible Soft Top Heated Glass Window Black STF | eBay
I thought about getting an upholstery shop to custom make the seals for much less (and install it).
Thanks!

Steele Rubber Products - Universal Parts

I would like to suggest that whomever X/O the regulator didn't take the time to adjust the new one correctly. There are four rubber oblong covers on the bottom of the door. Two are for bolts that hold the bottom of the regulator. You can adjust the in/out angle of the glass. The other two are for tilt/up/down of the glass forward/aft. If it is too far out of adjustment, you can pull the panel off. There are two pinch clamps that hold the glass to the regulator. You need to get those right before the fine adjustments from the bottom. If your seals are not cracked, I imagine you just need to change both angles to block out the water.

I have replaced both of my regulators recently. It isn't all that hard, but a tad finicky to get right. The Bentley manual covers it completely.

Post a couple of pic's with the window/seal closed?

My favorite is relays with VW emblem/part number on them that are 3x the cost a VW dealer charges.

a new keyfob was $450 (you have to get it reprogrammed).

Two pages in and no one has brought up a $5,000 Litronic headlight?

Radio Knob... $20

$400 coolant tank and to add insult they make it damn near impossible unless your a freakishly small handed long armed human being to replace it.