Spin-Oil Filter or conventional?
 

LN Spin-on or Porsche daisy cup?

LN Spin on w/ NAPA Gold filter.

LN spin-on. I did an extensive search of the net and those that wrench on these cars and know what they are talking about all recommended the spin-on.

And, I use a Mobil One filter because.... because.... ahhhhh.... because it cost the most so it must be the best. Yeah, that's it!

For me, LN spin-on with Wix 51042

I just became aware of another billet filter, Canton makes a 13/16 thread 3.4" tall billet filter (same height I think as the 51042)

https://www.cantonracingproducts.com/product/25-134/25-134---CM-34quot-BILLET-SPIN-ON-FILTER-1316quot--16-THREAD-2-58-O-RING/

Filters down to 8 microns, no bypass, and 12 GPM (21 microns and 9-11 GPM for the wix)

Downside is expensive inner media costs, but the inner media has a longer life, can can open the oil filter to inspect for bigger particles and then put it back together, changing out the element only when you get to the desired mileage.

If the Wix gets closer to the 9 GPM (in the 9-11 range they give) I wonder if that extra flow would be useful. Or is it just another way to spend extra money :)

Filtermag from a Merc engine filter

https://www.shopfiltermag.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/Canister_4488.jpg

how it works:

http://www.shopfiltermag.com/how-it-works/

I am about to install the LN Spin On Adapter, it's pricey, but I was impressed with the craftsmanship. Went with the Wix 51042XP. I couldn't bring myself to spend $50 on a FilterMag, so I taped some old hard drive magnets to the filter.

have you cut open any filters yet?

I haven't installed it yet, planning on this weekend. I'll try to remember to report back in 5,000 miles.

Please do, you might be the only person experimenting with the magnetic element on the forum.
I'm surprised this hasn't been discussed more. Sounds very logical. A system with 100% filtered oil and elimination of nearly all the ferrous material large enough to get caught seems like a major improvement over paper filter which provides neither.

We have a lot of customers running the LN adaptor with the Wix XP filters, and a fair number also running the FilterMag as well. Several of them have been startled by what they found after their first oil change as the FilterMag tends to clean out all the fine ferrous grit that has been circulating through their old filter set up.

The factory filter housing has a bypass that can easily send stored debris in the bottom of the container, around the filter and into the primary oil system,

The design of this bypass is less than optimum.

Sounds like Spin-On with filtermag is the way to go for a high mileage car.
Now that I've crossed 100K this seems like the right move if not overdue.

I'm about 1000 miles away from my first oil change running LN, Spin-on and filtermag. Didn't mention the filtermag on first post. I will post results and pictures if possible.

I have just done an oil change and fitted a LN spin on adapter with a LN billet housing and 60 micron washable filter. I will report back on my next change but that will be a while still.

+1
So far, so good.

can you post which Wix and Filtermag you used? The link on the LN site indicating which Filtermag to use is not working. This would be helpful for those searching this forum.

Sure Perfectlap! I am running the NAPA Gold filter 1042 which is basically a rebranded WIX 51042. The Filtermag is the SS300 for 2.9 to 3.4" diameter filters.

OEM + magnets on the housing (DIY). ;)

I may machine my own adapter in the engineering depatment this fall. The LN tax is too high for me to justify.

Thanks! Do you have the FilterMags in there as pair or just one?

LN Spin-On adapter:
LN Spin-On Adapter 1997-1998 $150

LN Spin-On Adapter Bundle (with oil filter, FilgerMag, and magnetic plug) $220
LN Spin-On Bundle

NAPA Gold 1042 $8
Amazon - Napa Gold 1042

Wix 51042 $9
Amazon - Wix 51042

FilterMag SS300 $116 for the pair or $58 for one
https://www.shopfiltermag.com/product/ss-300/

pictures or did not happen...

What sort of magnets are you using? I see there are really strong ones in the market, seems like you want those that can pull the tiniest micron through housing+oil and account for fluid motion.

[QUOTE=Perfectlap;461259]Thanks! Do you have the FilterMags in there as pair or just one?

Perfectlap; I have only the one on my oil filter. I do not have the one for the transmission.

Just running an Mahle filter - Used Wix once but noticed it had a smaller filter medium -

May pick up some rare earth magnets - Say 100#+ pull and attach them to the filter housing

Should work like the Magnetic Drain Plug.

Might even pick up a magnetic drain plug in time as I don't think it would hurt anything.

Can someone explain why the use of the spin on is an upgrade - The last 3 vehicles that we have bought now have element type filters not spin ons

Took a picture for evidence (pics or didn't happen)! ;) And to show what it looks like installed. I was wanting to leave magnet on filter until after I cut open to see the particles stuck to side of the canister, but that may not be possible.


http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1439407825.jpg

Duezzer; I guess I can give my two cents worth until the sages chime in!

First off have a look at the picture I posted and maybe visit their website but the

Filtermag is a very well designed/made part. I found mine in an old NAPA parts

clearance for $32.00. Definitely worth the money.

IMHO there are several reasons the LN spin-on adapter is an

upgrade, Primary is that it filters the oil 100% before sending to the oil galleries by

eliminating the oil bypass in the OEM filter canister. The advantage here is twofold,

cleaner filtered oil and as discussed in the IMSB threads since you are filtering your oil

100% you can potentially catch early IMSB failure/engine damage by preventing

collateral damage due to circulating debris. Something that really isn't discussed but I

think should be considered is a regular replacement of the OEM canister at some interval

say 50k miles, to prevent the built in bypass from weakening or failing/blocked open

resulting in more debris circulating thru the engine. Like I said my 2 cents.:ah:

[QUOTE=911monty;461261] Why not both sides of the filter?

It would seem that even dispersion of the metal would be better for oil flow resulting in more efficient filtration rather than crowding one side of the filter with the accumulated metal.
I guess the question would be does better flow equal better filtration?

[QUOTE=Perfectlap;461288] OH BOY!! As Topless would say it's Physics!

There are 2 types of flow, laminar and turbulent. Laminar flow as regarding an oil filter

would be the flow through a brand new filter where the entire media is being utilized

resulting in minimum velocity through the media and filter. This would allow maximum

retention time in the canister allowing a single magnet maximum time to attract the

ferrous particles. Turbulent flow would be the fluid flow as the media has become laden

with particulates , resulting in very high fluid velocity through the remaining media just

prior to plugging off entirely. This condition would most require the dual magnets. Since

I do not follow the 15k mile oil change (can you imagine the filter condition) and change

my oil around 4.5k, my thought is 1 magnet should be sufficient. However dual magnets

would certainly offer max protection. YMMV:)

Okay I think I follow that. But wouldn't two magnets give you a steadier decline in laminar flow regardless of mileage? I guess that's what I was trying to ask in the first order. The slower the decline in laminar flow the more even the wear on the filter media? Which I assume is what you want.

Sorry to interupt Physics class, but I do:

Cayman: LN spin-on + NAPA Gold 1042

Boxster: Mahle cannister

I use the set up on my CSS since it's my track car and Jake mentioned it was easy to have debris damage the plastic cannister. That would not be a good thing since I frequent tracks that can be 1-2K mi away from OMA. :eek:

Cool! Flow is only effected by media filter area decreasing due to plugging (the magnet has

no effect on the distribution of non ferrous particles to the media), Thus resulting in higher fluid velocity through the remaining media.

In laminar flow surface friction has minimal to no effect on turbulence. The Filter mag

attaches the particles to the side of the canister and has marginal effect on restricting

flow (from friction) along that side of the canister, unless/until the magnet captured

enough particles to restrict flow in that area. This would then require the dual filters to

spread out the captured particles over a wider area. However in my opinion,

going back to oil change interval, for this to happen you would have to have pretty

severe engine damage occurring to have this quantity of ferrous circulating debris. Hope this answers the

question.

[QUOTE=Perfectlap;461288] I think the simple answer is that most people don't want to spend $100 on some fancy magnets. And of course all that physics stuff. :D

[QUOTE=rick3000;461313] Man why didn't I think of that!!:cool:

[QUOTE=Perfectlap;461288] Perfectlap; Please excuse me, I had to go look at the picture to understand the question.

I think what you are asking is with the magnet only filtering one side, the media on the

opposite side is loading with the debris? This is true with particles larger than 20

microns (media efficiency), but where the magnet shines is capturing particles in the

1-4 micron range that cause the most engine wear, and simply pass through the media

circulating continuously through the engine. For first pass efficiency dual magnets would

be superior.

Thanks for the info.

Are there different adapters on the marked or just the LN

I don't use NAPA products anyone know if WIX make a filter that will fit the adapter?

Plain Jane OEM filters. :)

None of my three engine failures were due to imperfect oil filtering.

^ but your next one could be... :cheers:

What were the culprits and how many miles on each engine?

Also, the engine may not fail but as 911Monty points out, surely over time performance can be affected by smaller bits getting past the media.

In the past JFP has recommended using the Wix/NAPA Gold Oil Filter 7211, if you stick with the cartridge filter. Apparently, they are less prone to disintegrating on the ends than most paper filters.

Link: http://986forum.com/forums/187600-post15.html

204,000 miles - timing chain failure
136,000 miles - lifter failure
300 miles after rebuild of 136K mile engine - repeat lifter failure due to worn lifter carrier

146,000 miles and still running fine 996 when sold

With the above being said ^^^, I understand that my experience is not representative of all engines.

However, in reality, doesn't the oil that goes thru the bypass get filtered the next time thru? Even if the bypass was permanent, isn't the turnover rate high enough such that it wouldn't take long for all of the oil (and all of the contaminants) to have passed thru the filter?

What I mean is first pass, 20% unfiltered. 2nd pass 20% of the first 20% is bypassed (0.04%). By the third pass, 20% x 20% x 20%, only 0.008% of the oil is unfiltered. Very quickly, the amount of unfiltered oil approaches zero and any new contaminants are also quickly filtered out in only a handful of turnovers.

Or am I missing something?

You mean 20% then 4% and then 0.8% and so on. Same idea.