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Old 07-22-2015, 03:48 AM   #21
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You're doing it wrong.
He certainly is. Mike, get out now. You clearly didn't do any research before making this purchase, you didn't get a PPI done, and it sure sounds like you don't have the cash reserves needed to keep it in tip top shape.

If you do decide to keep it - like someone before said - start reading. Use to learn the search function. You've already asked about oil which has been discussed over and over and over and over again.....

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Old 07-22-2015, 07:14 PM   #22
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Owning a Porsche is not just about fixing what's wrong.....for me it's about keeping it as perfect as I can take time to.

Having said that, I just finished a clutch and RMS and IMS and this car was FAR easier to work on than my Ranger. It was super easy to pull the trans and work in there, even on a roller and on jacks.
Yes it looks very doable, I've been reading a lot and I bought the 101 Projects book. I think I can do this.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:26 PM   #23
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Before you continue posting, you need to read everything on this site. These cars are not that difficult to work on, but if you can't pony up 1-2k a year for maintenance then get out now. This is not a Nissan Sentra. You've got a luxury german sports car here and its going to cost money to maintain it. They're reliable but not durable.
I can definitely spend 2k to 4k a year on repairs. I just wasn't expecting these repairs to come all at once which I can't afford this minute.

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He certainly is. Mike, get out now. You clearly didn't do any research before making this purchase, you didn't get a PPI done, and it sure sounds like you don't have the cash reserves needed to keep it in tip top shape.

If you do decide to keep it - like someone before said - start reading. Use to learn the search function. You've already asked about oil which has been discussed over and over and over and over again.....
I've done a lot of research already, and plan on reading some more. Unfortunately I can't return the car. I even tried to get the dealer to at least fix the tires but no hope.

I plan to get the tires plugged tomorrow and do the oil change myself Friday. I bought everything I needed I'm not gonna mess with radio right now and save money for the IMS and clutch parts and tools. I should have enough money in a about 1 -2 months, hoping the oil change bought me some time. I also have that time to do more research and read. Hell I'll even get a 2nd part time job in the evenings if needed. I really want this car!
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:43 PM   #24
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you may have some recourse with a dealer.
Tires with nails are a safety hazard
Contact consumer affairs in Sacramento
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:25 AM   #25
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First thing you learn is there is no such thing as a cheap Porsche.

You'll pay for it one way or another.

That said, you can definitely do most of the work yourself.
The clutch kit you can purchase online relatively inexpensively.

I did something very similar after buying my S (clutch, IMS, RMS, chain tensioners, plugs, tube, trans fluid, and oil change). I knew it needed all this up front.

Believe it or not the hardest thing for me was installing the RMS to the correct depth. Took me 3 tries (should have just made a tool and been done with it).
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Old 07-23-2015, 11:45 AM   #26
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I can definitely spend 2k to 4k a year on repairs. I just wasn't expecting these repairs to come all at once which I can't afford this minute.



I've done a lot of research already, and plan on reading some more. Unfortunately I can't return the car. I even tried to get the dealer to at least fix the tires but no hope.

I plan to get the tires plugged tomorrow and do the oil change myself Friday. I bought everything I needed I'm not gonna mess with radio right now and save money for the IMS and clutch parts and tools. I should have enough money in a about 1 -2 months, hoping the oil change bought me some time. I also have that time to do more research and read. Hell I'll even get a 2nd part time job in the evenings if needed. I really want this car!
Well good luck to you Mike. We don't talk much about it - but don't neglect youtube. It's amazing how many Porsche upgrade and repair videos are on there with complete step-by-step instructions.
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Old 07-23-2015, 12:15 PM   #27
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Stay positive too - doing this work will very likely give you many thousands of miles of worry free driving, with the only exceptions being the small cheap things (idler pulley bearings, AOS, coolant expansion tank, maybe a MAF).
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Old 07-24-2015, 06:35 AM   #28
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I also bought an 01 S with 70K miles on impulse after the dealer in Chicago offered it to me for 10.5 K. Another 10K later and I almost have a car with no issues. Now if I could get the electrical gremlins sorted out I think I would be in good shape. Anytime you buy a 14 year old car you need to expect some serious maintenance issues unless the previous owner was very, very fastidious about it and has lots of records but then of course you are going to pay a lot more for it up front!
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:27 AM   #29
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Yes it looks very doable, I've been reading a lot and I bought the 101 Projects book. I think I can do this.
Good luck with it Mike. I'm glad that you seem settled on keeping it and working it out. Lots of good resources here and lots of knowledgeable people always ready to help or ridicule as the situation dictates.

Post pics yet?
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Old 07-24-2015, 09:08 AM   #30
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Yes it looks very doable, I've been reading a lot and I bought the 101 Projects book. I think I can do this.
If you IM me I'll give you my email and cell phone number. Busy at work but I'll call back. Feel free to ask whatever.

No special tools except IMS. You can definitely do this. I did have my Indy come to my shop for the IMS but there were means to do it myself through the site. The tools are available to rent or use. Get two good long reach low profile jacks. I use harbor freight ones.
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Old 07-24-2015, 07:54 PM   #31
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If you IM me I'll give you my email and cell phone number. Busy at work but I'll call back. Feel free to ask whatever.

No special tools except IMS. You can definitely do this. I did have my Indy come to my shop for the IMS but there were means to do it myself through the site. The tools are available to rent or use. Get two good long reach low profile jacks. I use harbor freight ones.
Awesome, thanks! I'll message you when I'm ready for the project.
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:08 PM   #32
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I changed my oil today and used mobil 1 0W-40. It was overall very interesting and now I understand how the engine and everything else is placed. The engine sounded and felt so much better after. Best part was the look on my friends face when she saw me pouring oil in the trunk lol.

Only problem I have is that I filled 9 quarts and the oil level was about 3 bars above the minimum level. I checked the dipstick but I can't tell where the oil goes up to. Should I put more oil in?
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Old 07-25-2015, 12:43 PM   #33
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Just make sure to check it when the engines cold and check the dash gauge to see what it reads. You don't want it low but you don't want to overfill it either. I'm a newbie too, good luck with the car. I'm having issues with the immobilzer that needs to be repaired.
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Old 07-25-2015, 02:47 PM   #34
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I changed my oil today and used mobil 1 0W-40. It was overall very interesting and now I understand how the engine and everything else is placed. The engine sounded and felt so much better after. Best part was the look on my friends face when she saw me pouring oil in the trunk lol.

Only problem I have is that I filled 9 quarts and the oil level was about 3 bars above the minimum level. I checked the dipstick but I can't tell where the oil goes up to. Should I put more oil in?
If you fully drained out all the oil it would take 9.5 quarts to fill. sound like you can still put in about 1/4 to 1/2 quart. you do not want to over fill it

Check it with the dipstick about 10-15 minutes after you turn off the car to fully drain back to the sump. The oil needs to be checked warm. I clean it with a paper towel, then reinsert it and lay the end on a clean spot of the paper towel. I makes it very easy to see the level that way

If you overfill it (very easy to do), the best way to remove oil is to remove the oil filter housing and dump out the oil in it. That should lower your oil level about 1 bar. unlike many other cars, Oil will not just drain out when you remove the filter.
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Old 07-25-2015, 02:48 PM   #35
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Just make sure to check it when the engines cold and check the dash gauge to see what it reads. You don't want it low but you don't want to overfill it either. I'm a newbie too, good luck with the car. I'm having issues with the immobilzer that needs to be repaired.
NOOOO
oil should be checked for proper level hot and you need to wait a few minutes after turning off the engine so it can drain back fully to the sump
read the manual!
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Old 07-25-2015, 03:27 PM   #36
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Used clutch? I don't think that sounds like a good idea. The biggest cost to the IMS is taking out the trans which you have to do to do the clutch. Your best bet, borrow the money and fix it all at once with new parts. You will be very happy. It is a far cry from a sentra to a boxster so doing it yourself is probably beyond your skill level if you have not worked on Porsches before. You have to expect that owning a boxster is expensive but I bet you got a great deal on yours considering they were very expensive when new. If it is going to be a daily driver, you better set up a repair fund. It can easy a few thousand dollars quite easily at ay time
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Old 07-25-2015, 04:38 PM   #37
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Used clutch? I don't think that sounds like a good idea. The biggest cost to the IMS is taking out the trans which you have to do to do the clutch. Your best bet, borrow the money and fix it all at once with new parts...
Of course for all the labor involved in replacing a clutch, it is best to go with the highest quality, brand new clutch you can reasonably get. There are good opportunities to buy a 'purchased, but never installed' clutch. If you are Very short on cash and need a clutch a slightly used clutch from a wrecked car will be adequate.

Here's a sampling of USED stuff available on eBay at the moment. The fact that someone is selling it does not mean that it is suitable or sensible for use:



BTW, I have 2 gently used AOSs available if anyone needs one.
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Old 07-25-2015, 05:00 PM   #38
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NOOOO
oil should be checked for proper level hot and you need to wait a few minutes after turning off the engine so it can drain back fully to the sump
read the manual!
Thanks! My oil looks to be right below the max.

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Of course for all the labor involved in replacing a clutch, it is best to go with the highest quality, brand new clutch you can reasonably get. There are good opportunities to buy a 'purchased, but never installed' clutch. If you are Very short on cash and need a clutch a slightly used clutch from a wrecked car will be adequate.

Here's a sampling of USED stuff available on eBay at the moment. The fact that someone is selling it does not mean that it is suitable or sensible for use:


BTW, I have 2 gently used AOSs available if anyone needs one.
I think I'd rather just buy some parts new. Why would one pay $100 for an IMS that was driven on 50,000 miles when you can get a new one from pelican for not much more.
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Old 07-25-2015, 05:36 PM   #39
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...I think I'd rather just buy some parts new. Why would one pay $100 for an IMS that was driven on 50,000 miles when you can get a new one from pelican for not much more.
Just to make sure it's clear, I was pointing out what some people will sell used. Not what anyone should buy used. A used IMS bearing is guaranteed to fail:
IMS bearing Used?
IMS bearing Used?

Mike, I think you're going to do okay.
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Old 07-25-2015, 06:54 PM   #40
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Just to make sure it's clear, I was pointing out what some people will sell used. Not what anyone should buy used. A used IMS bearing is guaranteed to fail:
IMS bearing Used?
IMS bearing Used?

Mike, I think you're going to do okay.
Gotcha! sorry bout that.

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